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Grand Prix user
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Discussion Starter #202
No, don't flatten. Just hold the pointy end of the comma dolly about where you want the bend and kinda "swipe" blow with your slight crown body hammer. Just put the metal where you want it without flattening.


Just try it next time, and it'll come to you instantly seeing as you pound metal around already.
Ah, the comma. My big one is kinda squared there but the newer junky hollowed out HF one be kinda pointy. The swiping with hammer move in itself is kind of an advanced maneuver, and a valuable skill. I have also been known to take a chisel over to the step-down on top of the anvil, to move or sharpen a line. I just tend to not bend my bends enough to crease until I can assure they all work. Sneakang up, if you will. As time goes by, I'll act with more confidence. I must say, that patch I just made would have presented a challenge to my forty-something self. But it was just a matter of walking in and doing the things, to make that now. I knew what to do once I thought it over, and it was really simple just like everyone said. Doing a neat, professional job of it is something I'll add in more and more as I become more fluent in shaping. First, do it. Second, do it neatly.

I did not remember to try to add bulge to the bead like what Rip is dealing with on his T door skins, but seriously... most folks would not. Too easy to perfect it in the filler stage of the job, and chances are you'll have to wipe there anyway. Gosh, I wonder if he has seen this thread!:eek:
 
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Discussion Starter #203
Wow, video! Shot by assistant, to boot. Thank you for the demo, sir. I have thanks button mashing to do next time I'm on the tablet (phone no worky for that). Looks like if'n I clamp the little comma in the vise, it would do. IIRC, it is not only sharpened but also rounded which might help. The snippy tone you may have got from my initial response was part just too much Model A lately. I did not want to think of it much once I hit the clock. Through history, when I start thinking seriously about jobs during off hours is when I've become more serious about the work than even the employer and things implode because I can't care if they don't. My folks had their 55th anniversary this week and while I didn't fail to post about cars... it slipped past me. I am in unfamiliar territory having advanced this far and stayed this long on the job, and it takes all my will to maintain status quo. I try to contain the complaints because I love the job and I try to bottle any frustration in my posts. But like any reliable V8, leaks occur.

Thanks for your willing contribution to my education, Pugs. What a guy!:)
 
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Discussion Starter #204
Pugsy, you ought to drill and tether that damn thing with a chain or something so it can't hit the ground because we don't need another pic like David's last, ha ha. I'd have to start calling you both Krakatoa. Like the vocanic island of the same name... crack-a-toe-ah, get it?:D

I bet that steel chunk sees it's share of shaping action.:)
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Pugsy, you ought to drill and tether that damn thing with a chain or something so it can't hit the ground because we don't need another pic like David's last, ha ha. I'd have to start calling you both Krakatoa. Like the vocanic island of the same name... crack-a-toe-ah, get it?:D

I bet that steel chunk sees it's share of shaping action.:)

Ya, I spent a while on the mill carving that point out. Can't get a 90° bend from a 90° piece of block so the edge really helps.


Haven't used it too much, but it sure comes in handy. Oh yeah, hit towards the bench so she don't crack a to.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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I have watched the proceedings and I am impressed!! I think I could fashion a tool 3 to 4 inches wide to do that with. I am not sure if you have read my latest post I have a idea to move the bend with a step flange die I have a die that has the right depth but I don't want to make things worse. check out the plan. BTW I lurk within here..:cool:
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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If you got a quart trigger spray bottle, I believe you would be sold. Main unique feature of the product is that it is benign under paint, according to the hype. To us, the smell is the first mind-blower. Then when you wet a towel with it and wipe rust away you go wow. Then begins the part of life when you can't imagine how you got along without it. The Cat floor freaks me out, it has stayed so clean. Only took probably ten trigger spray squirts, three shop paper towels, and four disposable gloves to re-protect the A body in five minutes. It does not completely stop sweat rust but seems to hold off surface rust from ambient humidity real well.
That's the part scares me. I already have enough addictions to expensive tools...:drool:
I'd say I'll try it, but if as you say, once I go down that road, there is no going back, then I'll have to continue... what to do ...:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #208
That's the part scares me. I already have enough addictions to expensive tools...:drool:
I'd say I'll try it, but if as you say, once I go down that road, there is no going back, then I'll have to continue... what to do ...:confused:
Bomb stuff with clearance aisle aerosol crap, just enough to keep air off it. I was gonna warn you when I linked you by saying "Its high", but forum and phone were clashing at that moment and I was out of time to edit and add those two words.:rolleyes:

But I have not shopped comparable products and did not select Picklex, just am happy we have it and can see that having it on hand has been profitable in the boss's face. He was eager to make sure we have plenty.


Whatever you choose to do, remember sanding the bare steel clean is a must before applying any coating that stays. My approach to this when working on my own dime in my own garage on my own ride was to brush on epoxy just as soon as I uncovered an entire panel and had it 80 gritted and degreased. Minimal cost, time spent, and mess made. Least number of repeated operations.

When I made it all around the car, then a quick blocking to knock down the faint brush marks (foam roller is best, I know that now but one brush well rinsed is cheaper) and a thorough sanding with a DA had me ready for either additional epoxy or primer-surfacer over the whole car. What I did at that point was buzz then mud then reapply. Then it was ready to sand and apply primer surfacer.

It can be difficult for me to see things from a hobbyist point of view but that is genuine hobbyist advice and while that was so long ago, it is still a valid approach with all things considered. If you do not have epoxy on hand, rattle can and wipe/sand when you do.:)
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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That's a cool "dolly" in the video Pugsy. I have gotten into having stuff like that to make stuff. I am not doing perfection metal fabbing but to knock something now, stuff like that is awesome.

These are a few pieces I got from a metal supply place I have gone to for years. The big one laying flat on the bench is THE BOMB! Oh damn it's nice to have that thing!

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Those do look handy! :cool: Its just whatever is there. I rely on the vise and anvil a lot but there are various tubing slices, angle, plate, and what not in the danger zone there under my bench. Then theres the trusty frame rack and even a hunk of railroad in a corner. I have been known to use old wheels even.:eek:

While you are milling about the punch bowl telling jokes and spinning yarns, Brian :):D:cool: I was wanting you and the guys to take a look at this. It does not cover all the bases but its the look I need to be sure about. This kind of outlines the execution plot-

 

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Discussion Starter #211
Do we need to see other options to help decide? (see previous post)

Also um... this pic is not altered....

In terms of weld length economy and thus frugality:

Chopping the back window 2" is cheapest

Moving the back window down 2" is next

Moving the window down or chopping it 1" would be high and hard.

Thoughts on what might look best? I vote move it 2" down.

 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Do we need to see other options to help decide? (see previous post)

Also um... this pic is not altered....

In terms of weld length economy and thus frugality:

Chopping the back window 2" is cheapest

Moving the back window down 2" is next

Moving the window down or chopping it 1" would be high and hard.

Thoughts on what might look best? I vote move it 2" down.


I'd say same height as side glass, on the same plane as well?
You got a 3/4 rear shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #213
:rolleyes:



And since flipping to the previous page is asking too much:
 
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Discussion Starter #216
Its getting chopped with the rest of the top, thats the word. :cool:

I gotta apologize for asking you guys to look at that pic. I am used to having my efforts on those things dismissed, and hearing I'm crazy more and more each time. But the other fab guys looked at me like I was nuts and kept repeating your picture is ucked up while stringing tape across the car. After that, they were just in my way until one walked off while I kept repeatng I hadn't changed the windshield angle but might have held my camera crooked which wouldn't matter.

When I shared the idea of not sectioning the A pillar, just trimming it and moving the cross piece down... the look turned to amazement. Boss said my pic looked very informative. Whats for me to know and them to find out is I will just do from now on. Not a minute of spare time spent doing car edits. I got the fly on the wall version of the other fab guys' reaction to my Cat front end ideas. Between the lines, I'm a nut job. I really don't care what they are doing on the bumper exhaust thing but don't understand why I could not get the same answers before building it as they are having now. What-evz.:rolleyes:

Technical post forthcoming. Technical difficulties posting with phone at lunch, did the work just couldn't post due to a worsening problem with my blog site. I have been doing double work for weeks now, to get pics uploaded and at lunch theres only time for one shot at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #217
Right quarter, before:





This dent had friends all the way up to the body line and back to the axle and the wheel lip was mashed in some.



Straightend that then stuck masking paper to the quarter and creased it with fingernail at the remnants of the contours, guessing 1-1/4" wide at the bottom based on the other side which had more left. Then I peeled it, laid it flat and drew out the lines. Hey as long as "I" know which one is the real line, we're good, right?:D



Pirated another slab off ol Lumpy. Believe thats all I want to use off him but you never know. Anyway, here... I have flipped the left side pattern and adjusted for best consistency at that line, and am in the process of trimming pattern away to draw each line.



And that was lunch-


:thumbup:
 
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Discussion Starter #218
Entering the grey room with a belch suitable for stepping off the elevator into an empty parking garage, :mwink: I went on and did my crazy things and minutes later a fab guy stopped in his tracks, glaring at the thing in my hand. I was just finishing up at the bead roller and he says You just made that? Then came praise and I was the one looking lost. Everybody said they were simple, now its awesome. Ah, Monday.:drunk:

So here we are at the roller part. There was time spent at the wheel prior to this, but not much since the general shape was started and it was smoother than the last. At this point, unlike the other side I have made one careful pass with stepping dies for the body line. The other was more like five with none perfect. This one sags in the middle a smidge.

At this point, where I forgot to do anything on the other, I remembered Rip's T door skins and did the stroll, over toward the engish wheel for a moment. With only the body line stepped, I spread out the wheels and with a flat anvil, I gently tipped a radius just outside the stepped line. Well in places too far and in some not enough, but just to entertain myself I reckon. Any mortal would play hell matching the whimsical factory shapes.

Anyhow, then I shuffled back to the brake and bent the bottom. Bumped that with the shrinker for some itty bit of curve to grow on... and ended up having to move that bottom line. Easy, Pugs.:sweat:

Then, being as how I was tippy already, why I just tiptoed on over to the punch bo... er... bead roller again. I did say this was the roller part, didn't I? Flipped one step die around like I like to do for tipping duties such as this. I take too big'a bites though. A feller oughtn't do that. Several light passes are best but I know the ugly mark gets hid plus I can wheel it or something, watch and see.





Reckon it was long about then when ol Mister Smartypants came passing by and gawked. That run me off over to the V and A where I thought of Pugsy's demo. My decent hammers is all flat faced so out come the big boppin honkin whopper slapper-



He could smoke me at hammering, folks. And I'm starting the week with callouses (sp?) from it.:confused: My money says the 455 will chew that 327 though.:D

OK, ok, I'll get on with it! Here. Bottom needs work, I rebent it in the brake:nono: Need to check out my rocker but yeah, this dog will also hunt I suppose. I ain't willing to commit without other panels on but the quarters will be easier to handle and to fasten with these screwed patches for the time being. I'm pleased with it thus far. Yes I did use the stretcher on that wheel lip edge for fine tuning.





 

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Discussion Starter #219
You didn't think that was all, didya?:D:rolleyes: Cat wants out, too.

What they are doing here is making way for the exhaust to exit from the bumper tips. There was a carriage bolted corner bumper bracket before.

 

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Discussion Starter #220








I met the owner of this car today and he is real happy to see the state of affairs plus he was curious about what was under his Dad's bodywork. Seemed like a pretty good guy, very positive about all of it and anxious to see it chopped. Since our conversation was just us, I got a decent feel for his expectations. Good first visit. :)
 
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