Thanks for piping up guys. That was the last slide. John if you'll turn the lights back on, we'll all kill whats left of the punch and catch y'all on the flipside. Somebody wake Pugsy up. Drive safe.![]()
No driving?
How much pressure? Well yes I am talking slides around loose but I am straightning. Theres air between the wheels but also dents. I tried hard to avoid additional stretching but some happens, of course. As far as I know, theres no way for me to quantify how much pressure I am using. Our cheapo unit sucks, it won't keep the anvil centered and the quick release lever just spins so it is virtually impossible to do nice stuff with. Not so much an excuse there as just a relevant fact. But its what I have. What are you seeing that causes you to wonder?
Have you read where I explained about removing flanges from window panel and quarters? I could stretch the areas in question horribly and it would only mean added excess material to trim away before the butt weld.
No, don't flatten. Just hold the pointy end of the comma dolly about where you want the bend and kinda "swipe" blow with your slight crown body hammer. Just put the metal where you want it without flattening.I would not mind watching a demonstration.Flatten, put dolly edge at new bend and hit at correct angle to start a bend, right? I had worked it with the vise a bit until I realized about flushing. Mainly because it takes an act of Congress to get one sharp bend on our brake. I thought about asking what steps to make the patch in but John had refreshed my memory somewhat and I ended up being able to wing it.
Pugsy, you ought to drill and tether that damn thing with a chain or something so it can't hit the ground because we don't need another pic like David's last, ha ha. I'd have to start calling you both Krakatoa. Like the vocanic island of the same name... crack-a-toe-ah, get it?
I bet that steel chunk sees it's share of shaping action.![]()
Do we need to see other options to help decide? (see previous post)
Also um... this pic is not altered....
In terms of weld length economy and thus frugality:
Chopping the back window 2" is cheapest
Moving the back window down 2" is next
Moving the window down or chopping it 1" would be high and hard.
Thoughts on what might look best? I vote move it 2" down.
![]()
![]()
And since flipping to the previous page is asking too much:
What you're asking is can't you just figure out what all their heights were by experimentation. I did say "I need to at least reference" them.
No, it will have fenders and that makes it a street rod.
Oh, heaven forbid, no! Of course that is all pure and blessed holy water, Occifer.:drunk: (psst- yours is in the hollow tree now let me go)
Just good natured jocularity there, fellows. I'd hate for you old boys to start making Arkansas references so I'll let that dog lie like a rug.
I'm fairly certain our metal slapper happy analyst from up north with the humpy headed 327 can nit pick my panel.So I'll just go bug huntin myself, here before dark.
How many ways, correct or not, are there to make that bend at the back? Anyone?![]()
Pun Intended,skin a cat?![]()
Which comes first, top chop or metal roof?
How does the door window shape look? Too much rake?Or no?
I haven't had a good stare at it yet.