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101 - 120 of 2969 Posts

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Grand Prix user
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Discussion Starter #101
The patch panels that were on it are still around. I could just use those. I did that on the 33. Perhaps I should insist on new full quarters and door skins?
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Door skins that stop at the body line where I indicated stopping are under a hundred. I'll just get those.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Alright, point taken. I don't know any better due to lack of experience. Is it so much so that I should confine my patch to the bottom six inches and rely on straightening and blasting to save the rest?

Yes.


..........
 
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Discussion Starter #104
Duly noted.:) Thanks. I'll go find the old patch panels. Passenger side has a lot better chances of being nice but also has it's own severe problem on the roof side. The metal is paper thin on the side panels starting like halfway down the part below the handle.





 

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I really like the As get cant fit in one after the interior is installed,lol,,i had one years ago early 90 ,,I installed a Mustang SVO engine and trans & rear,,didnt get the front installed before I sold it,,that is always my problem ,,I sell them,and wish u had not.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
I located the old patch panels and tossed them in the scrap bin, boss wants new. The rear roof panel is as bad a mess as that right side, up on top where pic don't show it good. The consensus on flushing the doors is that all the work happens on the body side. I was wondering about that.

Oh the patches, wheelwells, and dust were covering this up... heres what I am starting with. I named the project Ragdoll because thats how it is right now. Although Good, Bad, Ugly would also fit at this point because theres some of all of that here.:)







 

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Discussion Starter #107
I really like the As get cant fit in one after the interior is installed,lol,,i had one years ago early 90 ,,I installed a Mustang SVO engine and trans & rear,,didnt get the front installed before I sold it,,that is always my problem ,,I sell them,and wish u had not.
I had four rides at one time. Only sell if unemployed, in the past. There have been a few I would still have if they were not either destroyed or sold to make the mortgage. Current earnings fall way way short of life requirements and theres only one V8 left. :sweat:
 

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This is the only one I have ever had it was not a v8,,i put a nustang SVO 4 cyl turbo and a 5 sreed,but removed the 5 speed and installed an automatic and mustand rear with ranger hubs to get 5 lug wheels..i dont know what year it was ,everyone that looked at it said it was a different year mabe mixed parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I am certainly no expert on them. Every car is just metal shapes. 65-75 GM stuff, I understand.

Guy who put the engine on the Model A chassis wants plywood encased in welded shut metal, for the front floor. Y'know, build floor, lay plywood over it then stack another pan over that and weld it in. Thoughts?
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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I am certainly no expert on them. Every car is just metal shapes. 65-75 GM stuff, I understand.

Guy who put the engine on the Model A chassis wants plywood encased in welded shut metal, for the front floor. Y'know, build floor, lay plywood over it then stack another pan over that and weld it in. Thoughts?

Can't find one good reason for this.
Is he worried the motor will grenade?


It would need to absolutely water tight so the wood doesn't rot.
It will still rust a bit, not rust out, in there regardless from condensation.
 

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I am certainly no expert on them. Every car is just metal shapes. 65-75 GM stuff, I understand.

Guy who put the engine on the Model A chassis wants plywood encased in welded shut metal, for the front floor. Y'know, build floor, lay plywood over it then stack another pan over that and weld it in. Thoughts?
So you would be right at home with these,:D:D anyone reconise the car on the right.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Can't find one good reason for this.
Is he worried the motor will grenade?


It would need to absolutely water tight so the wood doesn't rot.
It will still rust a bit, not rust out, in there regardless from condensation.
Its a Model A and T and maybe even B... tradition. Not necessarily to have wood as, but wood in, the floor. As insulation. Wood is all through the original construction, ours will be metal. I got some 1 1/4" square 14 gauge tubing today that fits inside the existing B pillar. One ten foot stick of that plus two of 1x2. Theres a whole bunch of 1x4 tubing that was bought for this job, so I will use that for some places on inner structure. And I collected an angle iron X that might be useful for bracing and jigging, from the might be useful pile. Only took one pic this afternoon but I guess I skipped lunch posting so there should be an AM pic too. Story later, must mow. And the GTP wanted to overheat on the PM, only 85 out commute. Perfect. Supper plan B, she wasn't gonna make it through a drive thru.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I spent most of this afternoon trying to slip the molding thing out from between the roof and left quarter. Heck I had to get help to pull a door handle other day. Anyway I moved on because it wouldn't come out. Started taking wood out, left side. The 33 had bent tabs on the B pillar to retain the wood but this one has the wood screwed to the outside of the pillar before the quarter goes on. That was fun. Pulled tacks holding the quarter and got it out but might as well take the whole side of the car off.



Can't see much in that. I moved a cinder block to under my butt while I work in there.

Throwing this in... co-workers thought making a four foot side patch then cutting it into a half door skin and tall quarter patch was a "really good" idea. But only one thought he could make it as cheap as buying one. I pointed out that as soon as you have to do anything to the new skin, that number is down the toilet. Just saying. Got the feeling boss would like me to make stuff so we have a "can do anything" reference. I dunno.

But this morning I did some straightening of the bad spot near the left rear window.





I'll still have to weld up the original split. Rather do that after the modifying and fitting drama has passed.

They unbolted trans mount and slid the engine and trans into the Catalina and hood clearance is tight. I told them shim the body up. It will live, we kinda want to do fancy underhood metal on it. 3 of us may fistfight for the chance to design it.





The hood is just on to check clearance, I know it sits funny in pics. Slick had the grilles and bezels out and was staring at the Pfaff rendering a lot. He totaled his truck night before and tore it down last night so I imagine he is having to work hard to think Pontiac.



 

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Discussion Starter #115
Feeling mentally unorganized all week on the Model A, its kinda like walking on the moon for me. I've taken in a lot of A info and need more but am still soaking it all in. So far I've just dabbled in busy work to give myself time to plan. Monday should be better because I began today, to restore order to the chaotic body. Baby step today is all, but this is more like something I can deal with. Gotta get her to hold still-




I cut a ten foot stick of 1 x 2" 14 gauge tubing in half and bracketed one end of the five footers to bolt to the dash area at what I figure to be as good a measuring point as any.

Bolted those up and found a handy tab hanging out all alone under the trunk gutters to screw them to. Then I tacked in cross pieces. Then I added angle iron table legs at the front corners to nail down height from frame with it level.

Then I tried to take the assembly out of the car. Nope, had to cut legs off. Then I laid it down flat on the flat shop floor, cut tacks and adjusted tubing intersections until it was square. Actually about an inch narrower rear than front. Then I reinstalled it and bent the body to fit the squared box. Easy peasy, no guessing.

Now I can make a similar rig to attach at the tail panel inner corners and A pillar bottoms and square it the same way. When thats in, I'll mark center lines on the boxes and align the lower body to the upper plus assure that everything is level side to side.

Then, referencing the center line I'll set the in-out position of the bottoms of the B pillars. This is about when I'll want to attach running boards and fenders.

Then, I'll position the body so that the top of the door openings, and rockers, run paralell to the frame when viewed from the side. Then, I'll put table legs on the whole mess that go down to a body mount bolt or just rest on top of the frame rails.

And THAT will bring it into the realm of my comprehension. I can extend this jig and assure that the top chop is even. I'll be able to leave jig and floor in place on frame and disconnect or disassemble the body or parts... and know I can put it right back where it was. Theres even a handy spot to add a tab at the roof to quarter seam, and a good original dimensional reference point on the quarters in the trunk jamb at front.

I got this, but I doubt that my style will closely resemble approaches taken by others. I digress, theres homework to do. What I am doing now assures that there will be no suprises when viewing the car from different distances and angles and just aid symmetry in general. Might look like mountain from mole hill to you guys, but being strict about dimensions has always served me well.





Slick pirated the old Catalina front frame horns to modify since the new frame is half a foot narrower out front there. He will make a step-over that looks at home there. More than just the bumper connects there so its simplest to just swap horns.
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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Hoo boy, Gary found you a REAL project this time...;)
When I was looking for a street rod, I deliberately avoided anything old enough to have wood inside. I can't deal with wood, or fabricating replacements for it. This will be interesting to see how much of what you were handed is left when all the mods/rebuilds are done..:cool:

The hood clearance on the Cat looks like an issue. Where would an air filter go, or is the cover on the injection body high enough to simulate one ?
 

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Grand Prix user
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Discussion Starter #117
Hoo boy, Gary found you a REAL project this time...;)
When I was looking for a street rod, I deliberately avoided anything old enough to have wood inside. I can't deal with wood, or fabricating replacements for it. This will be interesting to see how much of what you were handed is left when all the mods/rebuilds are done..:cool:

The hood clearance on the Cat looks like an issue. Where would an air filter go, or is the cover on the injection body high enough to simulate one ?
Howdy! :cool:Yeah boss man outdid his self and I'm glad. I bet he is too. Hope I can make him some money on it.

On the Cat, no theres not room for a plain 14" drop base with 2" filter. I envision a hat plumbed to a remote filter. But I also wanted to mount the engine far enough back for the balancer to clear the rack which would allow the engine to sit at stock height.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Good stuff!

Brian
 
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Grand Prix user
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Discussion Starter #119
Five minute photo edit here. I tilted and dropped the lid the least amount I could to have it look chopped and good, to me, but not necessarily good and chopped. The plan is for 3" front, 2" rear but I think this is more rake possibly. I forgot to measure so I can't quantify how much chop this is but how does it grab you guys?

 

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Slow but willing learner
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I would want no more than that. I might choose 1/2" less.

I love it when the proportions are so good, you have to look again and ask yourself is it chopped or not. Of course this is like us choosing the color the customer should paint it. Our opinions are kind of irrelevant.

John
 
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