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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help solve a disagreement. I say lengthen the right rear sway bar adjustment. My buddy says bigger coil spring on right rear. It is a 3 link rear end with coil overs. It is tracking straight but picks the left front wheel up about a foot higher than the left wheel. He just hit it and eventually both wheels will be off the ground.
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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Depends,
Is the RR going down or the LF going up or both?
If it's going striaght....Both rear tires are loaded equaly and adding RR spring will add wedge/cross weight and load the RR more.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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8,432 Posts
Depends,
Is the RR going down or the LF going up or both?
If it's going striaght....Both rear tires are loaded equaly and adding RR spring will add wedge/cross weight and load the RR more.
From what I know and have been taught....never mix spring rates on a drag car, that's a circle track thing.
Circle track guys go straight sometimes
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Depends,
Is the RR going down or the LF going up or both?
If it's going striaght....Both rear tires are loaded equaly and adding RR spring will add wedge/cross weight and load the RR more.
It's going straight now after a sway bar adjustment 2 races ago. The left rear is squatting and the right rear is raising because of body and frame twist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Depends,
Is the RR going down or the LF going up or both?
If it's going striaght....Both rear tires are loaded equaly and adding RR spring will add wedge/cross weight and load the RR more.

Circle track guys go straight sometimes
Would please explain your wedge/cross weight statement or should I not do that on a drag car?
 

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More for Less Racer
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20,574 Posts
It's going straight now after a sway bar adjustment 2 races ago. The left rear is squatting and the right rear is raising because of body and frame twist.
Tighten compression 4-5 clicks on the passenger side rear shock if you've got adjustables, see how it reacts to that.

I still think you are fighting that central roll couple you get from the centered 3-link upper link.
Gives an even more exxagerated example of the same effect you can get from a triangulated 4-link with the upper front link points too close together. Factory style or rodder.
You hit it with power and traction and it tries to suck the pass rear tire off the pavement.

How big of a rear sway bar?

Have you preloaded the passenger rear spring, crank it up the shock body, to also counter the twist? You'll have to live with the car not sitting level this way....some guys won't do that.

Or You could both be correct, needs more spring rate on pass side rear and needs more sway bar adjustment.....that 3-link may just be throwing all the drag suspension stuff I know right out the window.

:Spelling edit:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tighten compression 4-5 clicks on the passenger side rear shock if you've got adjustables, see how it reacts to that.

I still think you are fighting thst central roll couple you get from the centered 3-link upper link.
Gives an even more exxagerated example of the same effect you can get from a triangulated 4-link with the upper front link points too close together. Factory style or rodder.
You hit it with power and traction and it tries to suck the pass rear tire off the pavement.

How big of a rear sway bar?

Have you preloaded the passenger rear spring, crank it up the shock body, to also counter the twist? You'll have to live with the car not sitting level this way....some guys won't do that.

Or You could both be correct, needs more spring rate on pass side rear and needs more sway bar adjustment.....that 3-link may just be throwing all the drag suspension stuff I know right out the window.
I'll try your suggestions but like you I think it's the 3 link.
 

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Have 2 pepple recording how each side of the car reacts when you launch.
90 degrees to the car showing the entire car.

Also write down any changes you make. It so much easier if you need to backtrack to a previous point.

Try not to do a ton of changes at once.

I use spray paint to mark threads/bolt relation along with wire where I can run it.

If you have a go pro or such showing the underside from the bumper forward during launch may reveal other things(like bushing flex) also.
 

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Member - AMC/Rambler "guru"
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An Air Ride air spring that sits inside the coil spring would be the easiest solution. You can adjust the air pressure at the track depending on conditions. You just run a hose with a valve out to where you can easily get to it. Air up and check pressure, run, and record what the best pressure is as well as the altitude (if you run at several tracks) and air temp. Altitude and temp will affect pressure a bit.
 
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