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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 49 International KB2 pickup. Several years ago I put in a junkyard Mustang II front suspension with the aid of a Fatman Fab crossmember kit. The guy that helped put it in cut the coils to drop the front more. Too much but anyway it looked cool. The truck rode very rough but I lived with it. I figured it was just to heavy for the suspension (1960 lb on the front). After a while it started to pull to the right but I was saving up for coilovers so I lived with it. Just installed QA1 coilover conversion with ride hight and rebound adjustments. Got the truck pretty level and heavier springs. Had it aligned and it still pulls right. The tech said the specs were right on and he couldn't figure out why it pulled. He didn't charge me because he couldn't make it right. Thought maybe it was the steering rack. The rack is a manual out of the junked Mustang II. Any ideas why it wants to turn right so much?
 

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Did you make sure the air pressure is the same on both sides.I have seen this happen and it was only the air pressure.. :confused:


Also make sure you don't have a brake holding on one side.. :confused:
 

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What specs did the tech use? The original Mustang specs? Or the Fat Man specs? Are the bushings all OK, not worn? Tires in good shape? Just asking some obvious Q's to eliminate some obvious stuff.
 

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Check to see if the rear axle is square to the front axle, also try different front tires. I have experienced two tires same make and model with different diameters. That will cause a pull every time. Is the pull better, worse or the same under braking, accelerating?

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The tech used the specs for a 74 to 78 MII. I'll have to get out the Fatman literature and see if it is different. I tried switching the left and right front tires. No help. Thanks for the input. I'll check the bushings, rear axle alignment and tire pressure. I think the brakes are OK but I'll check.
 

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Fatmans instructions always stated to use the OEM specs, but a call to him can get suggestions on how to eliminate the problem. If I understood you correctly, the pull to the right developed some time after the initial install with the butchered coils. If this was the case, I would attempt to find out what caused the change and would add the rear axle alignment into the equation ie, did it slip back on one side? Is there a dragging brake on one side?

Trees
 

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Mustang II IFS systems have a history of the lower "A" arm mount cracking or outright breaking when tubular control arms are used or when the strut rods are eliminated. If you are using tubular lower "A" arms take a close look at the area where the "A" arm bolts to the lower section of the crossmember and check for cracks or broken welds. If you find any have them professionally fixed asap. If you are not using tubular control arms and you are using strut rods check the area where the strut rod attaches to the frame for cracks or broken welds.

Do a search here and you will find a long thread that discusses some catastrophic failures caused by using tubular lower control arms without boxing the lower section of the crossmember.

Good luck.
 

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Just a thought. If you have a locker in the back you may want to switch sides on the rear tires as well to see if one is a little different diameter than the other one. Sometimes they wear differently and a tight locker will pull to one side if one is shorter than the other. 1/4" diameter or less difference with a spool will put you in the rail on the strip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the continued input guys. The lower arms are original Mustang. I am using the strut rods as well. I'll take a close look for cracks. I do have a Currie Ford 9" with Trutrac posi rearend. I haven't had a chance to measure the rear alignment. I'll try switching the rear tires and see if that makes a difference. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good news. Problem solved. I switched the rear tires with no effect. Measured the rear axle and it was pretty close. Leaf spring pins were not broken. Fatman literature says to use Mustang II specs. So I went to the local cruise in and talked to some of the guys and got the name of an alignment man that has been at it for years. Went to see him and when I picked it up he said "did you tell me it was supposed to be in spec?" The right front camber was -3.1 and the left +1.1 The right caster was -4.5 and the left was 6.0 The only thing that was close was toe. Moral of the story: just because the shop has alignment equipment doesn't mean they know how to use it. Like anything else repair related ask knowledgable people who to go to. Thanks for everyones input on this. Oh yeah, it drives straight now!
 
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