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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I need some help. It’s probably going to require someone who knows fast xfi. Even more specifically the dual sync distributor. So I just finished putting me new engine together and into the car. Messed with the tables a bit and got it running. I’m fact once I got it to run it sat and idled mint until I shut it off like 20 minutes later. However during that time that it was running I threw a timing light on it and that’s when I was confused to no end. So my timing light said I had 110 degrees initial timing. So to start I’ll say this. The timing light is a dial back style light but it has buttons instead of a dial. The engine was in fixed timing mode so it should have just read 20 degrees. The car has a FAST crank trigger and a FAST dial sync distributor as well as a FAST XFI 2.0 Ecu running it. So obviously the engine was not running with 110 degrees of timing. It wouldn’t run at all if it had that amount of timing. The car starts easy and idles smooth and sounds great. Oh yeah and I did double check to make sure the inductive pickup was on the number 1 plug. It needs to go in for a tune with a real tuner to get dialed in but I don’t want to bring it to anyone until I have everything checked and perfect so I don’t waste anyone’s time or any of my money. Can anyone help me figure out what is going on?
 

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Timing 180 off
Timing gun adjusted wrong for current engine.
Timing gears not aligned.
Cam not dialed
The balancer spun and timing notch now in wrong spot
The timing cover pointer in wrong spot
Plug wires/cap incorrect.



Eliminate the simple cheap things first before moving forward. Assuming the above is all correct without double checking it will have you doing things like having it running great at 110 degrees.

Once the mechanical is double and tripple checked you can move onto the electrical and settings on xfi distributior.

The distributor could have a "universal" curve or you could have a adjustment you did not realize was on.

But first make sure all your mechanical 0's are actually set at 0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That’s what’s driving me nuts. All those things were double and triple checked during the build. Dial indicator and degree wheel and all. Cam is in at 115degree Int centerline. Pointer was verified. The balancer didn’t spin because It was checked when verifying Tdc. The distributor install is kinda a weird ritual with the fast dial sync but if it was done wrong, say installed at 110 degrees or even 180 as typically happens, then it wouldn’t run at all let alone run great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The install procedure is actually different for the crank trigger style since you’re not using the Hall effect in the distributor to trigger the ignition. Lots of ingredients in this soup. I’m going to need to go back to square one and go through everything again
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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I wonder if the light is picking up and errant signal. Might try another. I don't car for those dial back lights but rather the dumber than dumb analogue style.
 

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Dial backs often have problems when ignitions get much beyond HEI. I really don’t have an answer as it seems random so whether it is in the vehicle set up or in the light or ramdomly in both I haven’t sorted out.

Bogie
 
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