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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be ordering 1" shorter axles today.

I have a 1-1/2" round bar and will carve out spacers on the lathe (2.250" and 3.0625") to slip into the pumpkin and axle ends.

Question is does anyone know how many thou clearance they use on the inside holes on the spacers for the round bar clearance?
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

Does the bar slide out easy or does it need to be knocked out lightly?

After cooling off of course.
 

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High Performance Rear Ends
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After welding it will be tight. You are going to get a little bit of miss alignment from welding, so the bar will be stuck a little bit, but should come out with little effort. If I can remember I'll check the clearance on my bushings when I get home later.
 

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Re; Axle narrowing jig, a couple things from the hobbyist-level: Check your round bar for straightness by supporting the ends on something the bar can turn in (wood v-blocks, whatever) and have a dial indicator on the middle. My kit is out by under .005" over 5' and we decided that is acceptable although I would hear out others' input on that either way, I once encountered an off-roaded 9" that was out by a quarter-inch+ and still working fine so pick your tolerance on the jig straightness I guess. On the sleeves, of-course minimal clearance is best but you'll still need to be able to slide the bar in and out, WD-40 helps. Drill and tap a couple holes in the end one (you really only need one) to connect a slide hammer to if you want. The bar and rings will position things but don't count on it holding them there against welding heat stresses, after cooling the housing will just twang into however it's going to be when the jig is pulled out so fit-up is important (don't leave gaps and fill them by welding). When everything is completely cooled down, that's when to use the jig as a checking indicator instead of a positioning device; the ends should slide in and out easily. If they don't, which is not unusual no matter how careful you were, use a press (ideally) or oxy-acet heat on the axle tubes to bring things in which is an art form I'll not address here but just takes patience and common sense. If you're not including a bunch of bracketry and bracing into the project and just doing the ends you'll have an easier time anyhow.
 

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Another method is how you weld your tube. Get it all lined up with your fixture then tack it in 4 places 90 degrees from each other. Check after tacking. The bar should slide easily after tacking. Then weld it from one tack to the next and let it cool. It will pull to that direction. Then after it cools some weld tack to tack on the opposite side. Keep doing this until it is fully welded. If done right then it should be fairly straight when done. if not get out the torch and a wet rag and straighten it. Like Kso said I too have seen housing off by about 1/4" and they were some how working. They did keep having axle seal problems, I have about .004 clearance on my homemade jig. I wouldn't go more then .005. You need some clearance and i think .001 is too tight. Like mentioned drill and tap one end of the bar and use a slide hammer to help remove it. Most of the housings I do are for circle track race cars. Its very common for those guys to get into wrecks and bend the housing. If they roll the car or get hit good in the rear wheel they almost always bent the rearend housing. I've been straightening and shortening them for over 30 years with this method. I could write a book on some of the stuff I've seen!
 

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Weld all brackets on the housing before putting the ends on. Welding brackets will cause the axle tubes to bend.
Welding the brackets on is a whole other ball game! LOL Small brackets like leaf spring perches don't seem to bother the housings. I always tack the brackets on then do the final welding with my straightening/narrowing jig in place. Brackets can pull a housing out of alignment but that are not has much of a problem has narrowing the tubes.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Guys.
All of the above has a nugget or two of good info.

Can someone tell me how thick are the bushings? The thicker they are, the harder to pull the rod out for sure. I was thinking about an inch and a half.
 

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Thanks Guys.
All of the above has a nugget or two of good info.

Can someone tell me how thick are the bushings? The thicker they are, the harder to pull the rod out for sure. I was thinking about an inch and a half.
Without going out to the shop to measure I'd say mine are 1" think. I remember several years ago cutting them out of plate before machining them. I have several different ones from all the different differentials I've had to straighten or narrow through the years.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Any reason your just not running diffrent offset rims?
Yes. They are not available in 15". Not much choice anymore. Companies are catering to the Donk crowd now.
Us old guys are Dodos............
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, gonna post stuff as I go along in case someone finds this thread later looking for info.

I spun some bushings on my lathe. The diff bushings are exactly as the bearings as they will go in easily using the bearing caps.
The outer bushings are a thou smaller than the bearing so I need not press them in too tightly.
Hope this is correct.
The round bar is 1-1/2" diameter.


616572





616573
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No one mentioned it but you might consider changing the housing ends to a Ford style bearing deal. Moser has some that take stock brake backing plates.
Thanks. I looked into it, just not interested in C clip elimination.
 

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More for Less Racer
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I think you are going to find the 1.5" bar will be too big to fit itself through some styles of housing ends.....seems like i remember my first attempt to build my own jig I grabbed up a length of 1.5" dia "TGAP" TG&P shafting(Turned, Ground, and Polished) off the left-overs rack at work only to find out after I had everything made the bar wouldn't even go through the Ford 9" housing ends stock inner seal cavity. Doh'
Ended up using 1.25" cold roll.

Maybe you won't have that problem with the GM end.....but it is just something you might want to check.

From memory, I also used .003" clearance on the ID and OD of the bearing pucks
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think you are going to find the 1.5" bar will be too big to fit itself through some styles of housing ends.....seems like i remember my first attempt to build my own jig I grabbed up a length of 1.5" dia "TGAP" TG&P shafting(Turned, Ground, and Polished) off the left-overs rack at work only to find out after I had everything made the bar wouldn't even go through the Ford 9" housing ends stock inner seal cavity. Doh'
Ended up using 1.25" cold roll.

Maybe you won't have that problem with the GM end.....but it is just something you might want to check.

From memory, I also used .003" clearance on the ID and OD of the bearing pucks
Thanks.
That sounds exactly like "Pugsy Luck"

This thought had occurred to me so I pulled the axles to take a look. Outer bearings are 1.400" ID, however, I didn't check where they seat. Didn't see any imposing iron behind them though.
 
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