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"But how do it know?"
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,


I bought a beam torque wrench at a garage sale recently. However, I can't seem to find any information on the company itself. The brand is NASA-USA, model R-150D. Ever seen one of these? (Ok, let the NASA jokes begin :p)

 

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WFO
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That torque wrench has been sold for many years under many names. I have one identical to it that's a Craftsman 4448, below is a Mac version.

They're a decent tool, but buying a used torque wrench can be an iffy proposition. I'd recommend you use a known good wrench to double check the calibration as best you can.

 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Hi All,


I bought a beam torque wrench at a garage sale recently. However, I can't seem to find any information on the company itself. The brand is NASA-USA, model R-150D. Ever seen one of these? (Ok, let the NASA jokes begin :p)

You can see in the photo that your's is off right from the start. It's not going to be to accurate but close enough? As Cobalt suggested you need to check it with a known good one.

Brian
 

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There was a thread buried in this forum about testing torque wrenches. look for it. As far as your goes, you can gently bend the pointer back past zero, and see where it springs back to. Then check it's calibration.

Personally, I would trust an old beam type torque more than a clicker type, where you could miss the click, and relies on a mechanical mechanism that can get dirty inside the wrench, without you knowing it, or a dial that could go out of calibration.
This is a case of where simple is better.
 

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WFO
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You can see in the photo that your's is off right from the start. It's not going to be to accurate but close enough? As Cobalt suggested you need to check it with a known good one.

Brian
Martin, I don't know if it means anything or not but beam torque wrenches are almost always off a tad. I believe it happens when the tool is initially calibrated. I know my Craftsman was the same way, but I don't think it's as far off as LT1's. But I agree checking it to a known tool would be a very good thing to do.

I wonder if there's a certain way one should go about doing this? I once tried to see how close my beam was to a clicker but I never came up w/a way that was repeatable.

Maybe use a socket to turn the beam torque wrench w/a clicker torque wrench and watch the beam to see where the other one clicked at?
 

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"But how do it know?"
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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you everyone for the responses.


I guess for $7, it's not a biggie. I plan on using it more for bicycle repairs and such. And yes, they do seem easy to calibrate: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Torque Specifications and Concepts. I will look for the thread you mentioned, Daniel.


For auto stuff, I'll will definitely be looking for something from a known brand and a good rep (recommendations welcome).




I wonder if there's a certain way one should go about doing this? I once tried to see how close my beam was to a clicker but I never came up w/a way that was repeatable.
True. Can't exactly max out on a beam because majority of the time the bolt will begin to turn again.




Maybe use a socket to turn the beam torque wrench w/a clicker torque wrench and watch the beam to see where the other one clicked at?
I guess one way to do it would be to torque a bolt to a specific number using the beam, and then use the clicker type to see it how it compares. The clicker type could be set at a lower number then what the bolt was set at using the beam, and then work one's way up using small increments.




Thanks again! :thumbup:
 

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These are (or were) all made by PA Sturtevent and like said before, sold under many names. Mine has a Craftsman label on it but stamped on the backside is the Sturtevent emblem. They are now Sturtevent Richmond. Mine - just used when close enough is fine - like torquing lug nuts where 5 pounds +/- is well within spec and what you worry more about is evenness between lug nuts. My two calibrated clickers are for engine work as well as when you want something right on.

 

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"But how do it know?"
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Discussion Starter #8
Oh, nice you even found an ad for it. Sweet! Kind of nice to know where it came from. Thanks Dave! :thumbup:
 

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WFO
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These are (or were) all made by PA Sturtevent and like said before, sold under many names. Mine has a Craftsman label on it but stamped on the backside is the Sturtevent emblem.
Oh, nice you even found an ad for it. Sweet! Kind of nice to know where it came from. Thanks Dave! :thumbup:
That IS cool. Now when it cools off some I gotta go out to the shop and take a closer look at mine to see if it's branded like that. I do seem to remember there being something on the back side. Is yours like that, lt1silverhawk?
 

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That IS cool. Now when it cools off some I gotta go out to the shop and take a closer look at mine to see if it's branded like that. I do seem to remember there being something on the back side. Is yours like that, lt1silverhawk?
I checked mine with my good clicker - 2 of the same size sockets, a hex threaded rod connector. then padded my vise with some scrap 1/2" neoprene, put the clicker in horizontally and very lightly held so no damage and checked it at several settings. It was within reason - a pound or two at worst by best guesstimate(my beam torque wrench is in 5# increments)

I also checked my inch pound clicker the same way and that one is dead on
 

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"But how do it know?"
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Discussion Starter #11
That IS cool. Now when it cools off some I gotta go out to the shop and take a closer look at mine to see if it's branded like that. I do seem to remember there being something on the back side. Is yours like that, lt1silverhawk?
Mine has the "MADE IN USA" on the back at the same angle, but not the other boxes seen in the ad.


 

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