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I'm going to start a SBC 383 project this summer and I was looking for some opinions on rotating assemblies and heads. I am considering Eagle or Scat for the rotating assemblies. Will these need to be balanced? Internally or Externally? How much clearancing on the block will be needed?
For heads I am considering Brodix IK200 aluminum heads with 200cc intake runners and 2.02/1.60 valves or World s/r torquers which cost a little less and have about the same numbers but are iron.
this is my first buildup and any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the help-Brian
 

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Depending on the block and the rods you use it may need clearancing as thats what we have found with the Scat I beam rod with 7/16 cap screws so far with this combe all the blocks needed to be clearanced.

Here is a link to an engine we built last year and using a good set of Vortecs and the same cam we have seen the same results.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106715&highlight=DYNO
 

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QuenchPiston said:
There is no need to clearance a 383. They came from the factory as a 383 so I don't see a need to clearance it.
there were no factory 383 sbc your thinking of that other kind.
 

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and it being a 400 crank id think it would have to be externally balanced, unless the crank is aftermarket and then it should say otherwise
 

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Eagle or Scat is a toss up. I have an Eagle Crank Eagle rods Speed Pro pistons and I had to clearance the block. Just alittle. If you have a die grinder and a bit you can do it yourself.. Just put a rod and piston with the bearings on the crank and leave the rings off and make sure the cap screws dont hit.. Very simple.. The engine will have to be balanced. the 383 is an externally balanced engine. Meaning some of the weight is on the flywheel and balancer. Just like a 400 and a 454.. Remember a flat top piston and 62 cc heads is about 11 to 1.. Oh yea stay away from the Keith Black and the Clymer pistons.. They are junk..

brian12c said:
I'm going to start a SBC 383 project this summer and I was looking for some opinions on rotating assemblies and heads. I am considering Eagle or Scat for the rotating assemblies. Will these need to be balanced? Internally or Externally? How much clearancing on the block will be needed?
For heads I am considering Brodix IK200 aluminum heads with 200cc intake runners and 2.02/1.60 valves or World s/r torquers which cost a little less and have about the same numbers but are iron.
this is my first buildup and any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the help-Brian
 

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mitchc said:
Eagle or Scat is a toss up. I have an Eagle Crank Eagle rods Speed Pro pistons and I had to clearance the block. Just alittle. If you have a die grinder and a bit you can do it yourself.. Just put a rod and piston with the bearings on the crank and leave the rings off and make sure the cap screws dont hit.. Very simple.. The engine will have to be balanced. the 383 is an externally balanced engine. Meaning some of the weight is on the flywheel and balancer. Just like a 400 and a 454.. Remember a flat top piston and 62 cc heads is about 11 to 1.. Oh yea stay away from the Keith Black and the Clymer pistons.. They are junk..
i agree on one thing that was said here, you'll have to check the clearance at the pan rail for sure (it's always better safe than sorry)

and you should check it again when you get your cam in there to make sure it dosn't hit one of the cam lobes either :nono: then depending on the lift of the cam and pistons you choose (like domes for instance) you want to make sure your pistons don't smack one of the valves as you rotate it.

i'd mock it up like mitch said to check the pain rail then do it again when you get your desired cam (unless you already have the cam that your gonna use, if thats the case i'd check em both at once)


psssh KB's junk? thats funny......i wonder why there so known and still around selling millions of pistons each year? :confused: just remember brian forged is always better but NOT always necassary. most of the time people buy forged just for overkill (another better safe than sorry type deals)

-J
 

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Well what I base it on.. A very good friend of mine owns Clarks Automotive Machine Shop her in KC.. He has stacks and stacks of KB pistons and the Claimer that were put in motors and are now junk.. You can call him and ask him.. 816-836-3223 and ask for Herb.. The KB's and the Claimer were about $50 to $70 cheaper than the Speed Pro pistons..


QuenchPiston said:
What do you base this on mitchc?
 

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Eagle makes an internal balance cast crank for use with 5.7" rods. This is what I am using. Scat also makes an internal cast crank, but I think it is for 6.0" rods only.

I perfer internal balanced to external balance.

Using Speed Pro 12cc dish pistons on my zero decked block, a 0.039 Fel Pro head gasket, and 64cc TF aluminum heads, I have about 10.3 static CR and about 8.3 dynamic CR. Runs fine on 89 octane with 36* total timing, all in by 2600 rpm.
 

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i used the Keith Black Silvoschits once they didnt come with the paperwork saying i had to have .010 more rimg gap than usual like they were suppose to so it hydraulic locked and destroyed 2 of the cylinder walls. $2700 dollar fu<k up
 

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runn141 said:
i used the Keith Black Silvoschits once they didnt come with the paperwork saying i had to have .010 more rimg gap than usual like they were suppose to so it hydraulic locked and destroyed 2 of the cylinder walls. $2700 dollar fu<k up
They came "brand new sealed in the box" from KB (or from whom ever) without paperwork?
 

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mitchc said:
were put in motors and are now junk.. .
Could you care to elaborate on that before I call him? I could see this guys face when I call him, "hey, tell me about those KB pistons that are now junk" lol. I am not taking sides either way here but I think you can agree with me on the phone call issue lol.
 

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runn141 said:
yes sealed in a box no paperwork
I don't know where I posted this, think it was CarCraft forum, but if anyone builds an engine now a days with aftermarket parts the first thing they should do before ever buying a part is seek out a lawyer. Sorry you got burned like that but did you at least try to present your case to a arbitrator?
 

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QuenchPiston said:
I don't know where I posted this, think it was CarCraft forum, but if anyone builds an engine now a days with aftermarket parts the first thing they should do before ever buying a part is seek out a lawyer. Sorry you got burned like that but did you at least try to present your case to a arbitrator?
never really found out why it happened till a year later, a race shop had told me. of course it doesent really matter now my garage burnt the following 2 years destroying everything i ever worked to get. so the insurance company paid for it
 
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