I am attempting to build a 383 stroker for my 91 s10. I want to use an aluminum 350 block for the base and build from there. Does anyone know some good tips or maybe some good kits that will really help? This would be my first engine build so any advice will help.
Need advice for a 383 build
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I would nix the idea of the aluminum block.
SBC CHEVY 383 SHORT BLOCK KIT FORGED FLAT TOP 4.030 PISTONS SCAT CRANK & RODS | Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers
SBC CHEVY 383 CUBIC INCH COMPLETE SHORT BLOCK KIT. 4.030 bore x 3.750 stroke, SCAT CRANK & SCAT RODS. WISECO 2618 AIRCRAFT ALLOY FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS. This short block kit is not assembled. Important note. Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have...
skipwhiteperformance.com
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Add some AFR or Profiler heads and a fairly mild hydraulic roller cam = 500+ hp for the street. That will move an S10 right along if you get some sticky tires. Otherwise it all goes up in smoke.
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If you can justify the extra 4k for al. block? Build a 440 cube with sb2.2 heads and make 800 hp for a little more
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Who’s aluminum block there are quite a few makers they have different dimensions that vary from pretty stock to not so much.
The 3000 dollar Speedmaster is pretty much a stock dimension block.
www.speedmaster79.com
The Brodix as seen in the link below is highly variable from stock with a lot of options.
I’d say for a first time build this is rather lengthy step technically and financially.
Bogie
The 3000 dollar Speedmaster is pretty much a stock dimension block.
Chevy SBC 350 B-4.125 DH-9.025 4-Bolt Billet Main Bare Aluminum Engine Block
SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:1-286-015-01Part Type:Engines, Bare Blocks Block Material:A-356 AluminumCylinder Bore Diameter:4.125 in.Bore & Stroke:4.155 in. x 4.000 in. Max RecommendedCam Journal OD:Standard SBC - 1.869Cam Plug:2.375 in. Dia. Cup Plug Cylinder Wall Thickness:0.275 in. min @...
www.speedmaster79.com
The Brodix as seen in the link below is highly variable from stock with a lot of options.
I’d say for a first time build this is rather lengthy step technically and financially.
Bogie
If you want a good block then go with a Dart SHP iron block. The block will need some final machining done but with a good machine shop for anything street related its more then enough to give you what you need. Not nearly the cost of an aluminum block and for a street driver I don't think an aluminum block would be needed.
Just my opinion there. If you go with the 4.0 inch bore block and want a lot of builds out of it, you can go .040 over then .060 over and if you can even buy .080 custom made pistons you can go that far over and still be fine or after that you can go to 4.125 bore which is a stock 400 bore size. The 4.0 inch block is the same block as the 4.125 block. I have seen a Dart block bored to 4.185 and the cylinder were very thick and are siamesed so no coolant goes between them and makes them very strong and able to handle bigger bore size with out worry.
Dart just does not make the bore as big and sells them both ways for either a 350 build or whatever cubic inch you want to make it in relation to stroke or you can get the bigger bore block and make it a bigger cubic inch build right off the bat depending on what stroke you use for crankshaft.
You can use a oem roller setup with it and you can buy it with either a two piece rear main seal or the one piece rear main seal. Regardless of what one you choose they are already clearanced for a 3.750 crankshaft and make a strong foundation with the right rotating assembly for in excess of 500 plus horsepower and can handle it with out problem if built properly.
You can make a 377 right of the gate (4.0 bore x 3.75 stroke) or have it bored .030 and make it a 383 stroker or you can make it a different 377 which is called a de stroke with a 4.125 bore x 3.48 stroke and it makes a very fast winding high horse power and still a lot of torque motor or you can start out with it being a 400 cubic inch small block or if you get some extra clearancing done to the block and stuff you can get a 4 inch stroke crank and build with the 4.125 bore and get a bigger sized cubic inch small block.
It all depends on what your wanting to do with your truck and build. The s10 will fly with a bone stock 350 vortec with nothing else then the motor with a carb on it and burn tires and go fast all day long. With more power and its light body it does not take much to make it go. Try not to make the mistakes like I have and go too big on things as I have done so over the years and ended up not liking my choice and ended up spending even more money to correct said choice and go smaller on things and less big horse power numbers and built it more realistic for what I actually do with it then living in a fantasy world where its never used right with what it once had.
Just my opinion there. If you go with the 4.0 inch bore block and want a lot of builds out of it, you can go .040 over then .060 over and if you can even buy .080 custom made pistons you can go that far over and still be fine or after that you can go to 4.125 bore which is a stock 400 bore size. The 4.0 inch block is the same block as the 4.125 block. I have seen a Dart block bored to 4.185 and the cylinder were very thick and are siamesed so no coolant goes between them and makes them very strong and able to handle bigger bore size with out worry.
Dart just does not make the bore as big and sells them both ways for either a 350 build or whatever cubic inch you want to make it in relation to stroke or you can get the bigger bore block and make it a bigger cubic inch build right off the bat depending on what stroke you use for crankshaft.
You can use a oem roller setup with it and you can buy it with either a two piece rear main seal or the one piece rear main seal. Regardless of what one you choose they are already clearanced for a 3.750 crankshaft and make a strong foundation with the right rotating assembly for in excess of 500 plus horsepower and can handle it with out problem if built properly.
You can make a 377 right of the gate (4.0 bore x 3.75 stroke) or have it bored .030 and make it a 383 stroker or you can make it a different 377 which is called a de stroke with a 4.125 bore x 3.48 stroke and it makes a very fast winding high horse power and still a lot of torque motor or you can start out with it being a 400 cubic inch small block or if you get some extra clearancing done to the block and stuff you can get a 4 inch stroke crank and build with the 4.125 bore and get a bigger sized cubic inch small block.
It all depends on what your wanting to do with your truck and build. The s10 will fly with a bone stock 350 vortec with nothing else then the motor with a carb on it and burn tires and go fast all day long. With more power and its light body it does not take much to make it go. Try not to make the mistakes like I have and go too big on things as I have done so over the years and ended up not liking my choice and ended up spending even more money to correct said choice and go smaller on things and less big horse power numbers and built it more realistic for what I actually do with it then living in a fantasy world where its never used right with what it once had.
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