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Discussion Starter #1
Need information.. I have a 1989 dodge dully d-350. I removed all of the paint off to bare metal. I started to do the small bit of body work over the metal. Welded holes where the molding was etc. No Body work near 1/8” deep. I have sanded everything, Rage Gold & bare metal with p80.
The body is looking so good that I was wondering if there is an epoxy high build 2k primer I could use to get rid of the p80 scratches and go right to bc/cc?
I had planed on using epoxy primer sealer over bare metal/filler then use a high build primer, then epoxy primer sealer then BC?CC.
Is there an Epoxy primer high build product that I can use and save a coat/money? :D
Thanks,
Doug
 

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No such thing as an "epoxy high build 2K" Epoxy and 2K are two different chemical products. Your original plan is the best option available. I would sand the filler to 180 then 2-3 coats of epoxy, then the high build, then seal and paint. Filling 80 grit marks with any primer, epoxy or not, is asking for problems and shrinking later on. There are products available that will fill them, most polyester primers will fill 80 grit, but who knows how long before they shrink and show up. Paint is too expensive and too labor intensive to cut corners............

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Kelly,
Are you saying I should not have used p80? I thought everything I have read said to use p80 so the epoxy would have a tooth. This is my first auto/body/paint job and I have been trying to do everything"on the money".
Where have I gone wrong and how do I fix it. I don't want to "cheap out" now as I have too much time and sweat invested.
Doug
 

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Sanding everything with 80 grit is not a problem or "messed up" and will be fine for the first round of epoxy. I have found that 180 on filler will be about the same amount scratch as 80 on metal. You have to keep in mind that the filler is much softer and scratches easier and deeper than the metal, and it will soak up the epoxy instead of sitting on top like the metal surfaces. Nothing wrong with 80 grit on everything for epoxy, just my preference.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it now. I will bring all filler to 180 & leave the bare metal at p80 then proceed with my original plan...
metal/filler, epoxy primer sealer, slick sand, epoxy primer sealer then BC?CC.
Thanks for the council.
Doug
 

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I feel like I should also mention this also, if you use any W&G remover prior to primer, Let it sit at least a couple hours to overnight to ensure all traces have evaporated from the filler. You may already know this, but filler is a sponge and will take a long time to evaporate out completely. I usually spray a little on a cloth and lightly wipe over it to avoid getting very much on the filler if I use it on the filler at all. After it sits and you are confident it is completely evaporated off, wipe it down with a tack cloth and prime away.

Kelly
 

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I hardly ever use the grease and wax remover on filler but sometimes you have to. If I know a car is gonna sit in filler for a couple days, which it really shouldn't but not up to me, I will leave it in 80 grit scratches and spray guide coat on it and leave it. Mostly everything will sand out later with 180 but occasionally you'll see a stain from some knuckle head with grease on his hands touching your work. At that point, if I see a stain I'll use the grease and wax remover on a rag like Kelly suggested and then let it sit in the sun or give it some time as Kelly also stated. I think it's much more important to use grease and wax remover before adding filler and also much more important to blow off your filler with extremely high pressure. Forget the air blow guns, those things blow due to osha standards. Just use two air connectors and screw them into each other and blow it off really good before and after filler.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Tech,
I did use W&G remover under all of my filler and I have tried to keep it clean threw out the project..good councel.
Doug
 

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Doug, Slick Sand fills awesome, and I used it on my car, but if I didn't need the crutch I absolutely wouldn't use it if not necessary. First it's a pain in the arse to sand initially (once you break through the crusty outside layer it's pretty easy sanding), but it's so time sensitive too because it kicks so fast and it's EXPENSIVE. A gallon kit costs a lot, and you wouldn't believe how easy you can blow a quart just on a quarter panel because it's so thick. You'll also need a cannon to shoot it; I bought a 2.5mm tip cheapie $40 gun online just for SlickSand. I you just want good fill, it's easier to use a good high build 2k like Southern Polyurethane's 2k primer. It's a lot more user friendly and has less shrinkage than the others (as I've been told). And it's priced a lot better.
 

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I agree ,no need for slick sand,it looks pretty good and SPIs 2k will certainly be plenty of build...BUT thier epoxy can also be used as a build primer by simply spraying more coats 5-6 coats should be enough for just about anything if your bodywork is even close..the other way to get even more build is to mix up a couple qts and let it sit for a few hours or even over nite then spray it it really thickens it up...just remember the thicker the primer the bigger the tip you'll need for your gun...My biggest tip is a 1.4 so I go with mulltipal coats of spi epoxy ...epoxy takes a bit longer to cure than 2k but you will only need one primer that does everything from sealing the metal to sealing for paint ,epoxy is also the best paint sealer...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Doug, Slick Sand fills awesome, and I used it on my car, but if I didn't need the crutch I absolutely wouldn't use it if not necessary. First it's a pain in the arse to sand initially (once you break through the crusty outside layer it's pretty easy sanding), but it's so time sensitive too because it kicks so fast and it's EXPENSIVE. A gallon kit costs a lot, and you wouldn't believe how easy you can blow a quart just on a quarter panel because it's so thick. You'll also need a cannon to shoot it; I bought a 2.5mm tip cheapie $40 gun online just for SlickSand. I you just want good fill, it's easier to use a good high build 2k like Southern Polyurethane's 2k primer. It's a lot more user friendly and has less shrinkage than the others (as I've been told). And it's priced a lot better.
Thanks Lizer,
Is Southern Polyurethane's 2k primer the same as SPI?
Thanks,
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I agree ,no need for slick sand,it looks pretty good and SPIs 2k will certainly be plenty of build...BUT thier epoxy can also be used as a build primer by simply spraying more coats 5-6 coats should be enough for just about anything if your bodywork is even close..the other way to get even more build is to mix up a couple qts and let it sit for a few hours or even over nite then spray it it really thickens it up...just remember the thicker the primer the bigger the tip you'll need for your gun...My biggest tip is a 1.4 so I go with mulltipal coats of spi epoxy ...epoxy takes a bit longer to cure than 2k but you will only need one primer that does everything from sealing the metal to sealing for paint ,epoxy is also the best paint sealer...
"BUT their epoxy can also be used as a build primer by simply spraying more coats 5-6 coats "
I am afraid I am still "not getting it" Doesn't EPOXY PRIMER require a catalyst added to it?
Mix it up and let sit over night so it will thicken up?
I really appreciate all of the advise here. I think I have it and then"not so much":)

Doug
 

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The epoxy is mixed 1:1 with an activator so you are correct. The longer it sits with the activator it starts to thicken, which is what he's saying.

I just like the 2k because it's a lot cheaper to build with, faster and easier to mix, faster drying, and easier sanding. Having all that epoxy on there would be better rust protection though.


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You absolutely cannot go wrong with them, especially if you're really green to painting and have lots of questions. Barry, the owner, is the tech line 7 days a week and he will help you every step of the way to make that project a success. Plus you'll like their prices.

90% of everything I know now, or do, is because I've learned it from Barry. He erased a lot of bad information from my head or bad previous ways of doing it. In fact he's worked with me every step if the way on this Mustang I've been working on.... Since 2009. We've become good friends and sometimes he'll have a question for me about health issues for his animals so it's nice to be able to return the favor. He really saved my butt on more than a few times when I was painting my car.

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Discussion Starter #20
Yup, Barrys a regular guy and talks so you'll understand,he'll also be there 24-7 if you have any questions while doing your project.
Thanks DBMan,
I am going to talk to them. I have joined the SPI forum, but having a heck of a time getting photos up loaded to my account. I wish all forums were the same = intuitive ..o,well:)

Doug
 
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