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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there, first time painter here so I have a question or two after my first pass...

I've put a first coat on the car, and its a little thin in a few spots and there are some rather large drips that I would like to sand out before I proceed to the 2nd coat...

I was wondering whether a wet or a dry sand was better for this situation and also what type of Grit sand paper to use?

Also should I just sand down the whole car before I move onto coat #2?

I'm using a HVLP Sata Gun as well. Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks a bundle.
 

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flatblack55 said:
Hey there, first time painter here so I have a question or two after my first pass...

I've put a first coat on the car, and its a little thin in a few spots and there are some rather large drips that I would like to sand out before I proceed to the 2nd coat...

I was wondering whether a wet or a dry sand was better for this situation and also what type of Grit sand paper to use?

Also should I just sand down the whole car before I move onto coat #2?

I'm using a HVLP Sata Gun as well. Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks a bundle.
Are you talking about primer or paint? 1k or 2k? You need to wet sand the "drips" using a 400 grit paper. If the 1st coat has completely cured, you will need to sand the entire car before spraying the 2nd coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1st paint coat now, not primer. my pops wet sanded out the drips, and the car has been sitting for a few days now (has had problems with the sudden coldsnap in west CA)

he was not planning on re-sanding the whole car, but it has cured and if thats a must then I will pass along the information to him.

I don't know exactly what kind of paint he was using (i told him details like this I had to know, i got HVLP out of him and the gun name lol)

I will post more details when he gets back tonight.

thanks so far :)
 

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Wetsanding works better if the paint is fresh, as dry sanding may require more time to sand, without clogging the paper.
The guys are right, if the paint has cured, the whole thing will need to be sanded before repainting to have adhesion. Really depends on the paint, most basecoats have a 24 hour window before sanding is required, activated clearcoat shorter. The product data sheets for you paint may have recoat information.
But most paints other then unactivated enamel (and recoat can be tricky on that as it something like you either must recoat within a window of so many hours or wait so many days.) or epoxy would probably require resanding the whole works before repainting after a day has passed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks again for all the replies! everything helps!

Alright, so to confirm:

1. Paint of Primer? : We are in the Paint Stage
2. 1K - 2K? : Don't see anything no the paint except "MAE Acrylic Enamel with Hardener" Our Primer was a 2K though.

3. Base Coart or Single Stage? : Single Stage

4. Paint Date : Saturday October 10th, 2009

5. We have a "Wet Coat" (2 passes) on the roof, and a "Half Coat" (1 pass) on the Body.

Basically my pops did 1 whole coat and noticed some very large drips so instead of continuing on and making it look horrible he stopped to sand out these drips, is what I make of the story :D

For a runthrough, we're going to scuff sand the whole car for adhesion since it has totally cured (dry time on this paint is like 5 -10 min) and sand out the drips?

This sound about right? I tried to cover all my bases on replying too :)

Thanks Again!
 

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Double check your paint reduction.sand the whole car down or use a red scuff pad and sand the runs.With Enamels spray a thin coat(transparent) to give the car a tacky surface.then two to three wet coats(spray it like you want it to look) and keep going till your done ...if you get runs,dont worry you can sand and buff after its dry.Most of us dont use enamels anymore we prefer urathanes ,I always recomend ful-thane SS and then ONLY for solid colors,it sprays very ez and is very forgiving about runs plus it holds up much,much longer.I hope you have a solid color because it'll look like crap if it's metalic nobody can make metalic SS look GREAT its a waste of time and money.
 

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deadbodyman said:
Double check your paint reduction.sand the whole car down or use a red scuff pad and sand the runs.With Enamels spray a thin coat(transparent) to give the car a tacky surface.then two to three wet coats(spray it like you want it to look) and keep going till your done ...if you get runs,dont worry you can sand and buff after its dry.Most of us dont use enamels anymore we prefer urathanes ,I always recomend ful-thane SS and then ONLY for solid colors,it sprays very ez and is very forgiving about runs plus it holds up much,much longer.I hope you have a solid color because it'll look like crap if it's metalic nobody can make metalic SS look GREAT its a waste of time and money.
I can vouch for he ful-thane SS ... it does come out very very nice... and I have never painted before and I was impressed with what I did.... with the right teacher and advice you can get it to come out the way you want it that is for sure.
 
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