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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put a cab corner on my 1955 Chevy truck 2nd series. As you can see from the pictures that by doing my first cab corner and maybe being a little over enthusiastic with the ginder, the door gap is a little wider on the bottom. What is the best way to correct this? Do I have to go back and somehow weld something in place to fill the gap? If so what would be a good thing to weld in and keep in mine my welding/grinding got me in this situation. I have thought about a 1/8+ pieces or flat steel so that you would see the edge from the outside. I would have to work it in on the door jam somehow. I'm not feeling very confident in my welding skills at this point.
Would bodyfiller work in this spot? Maybe some cat hair fiberglass filler?
Thanks for the suggestions...
http://www.coopscorner.com/misc/doorgap.htm
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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What I would do is to cut a slit down the outside of the line, widen the gap in the slit closing up the door gap. Then weld up the slit.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MARTINSR said:
What I would do is to cut a slit down the outside of the line, widen the gap in the slit closing up the door gap. Then weld up the slit.

Brian
Hi Brian,
I hadn't thought of that but it sounds like a really good idea. Just to make sure, you are talking about cutting a slit where I put a red line in the picture? My welding skills aren't very good, but it does sound like a good solution. I was hoping filler would work because I am better with filler than with welding...hehe Thanks for the help...Tom
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Yes on that red line, well a little closer to the edge. And that slit would be done with a 1/32" cut off disc.

If you feel better using a filler, that is pushing a filler quite a bit but it isn't out of the question. Grind it nice using 36 grit and use "Everglass" a fiberglass reinforced filler.

But honestly, moving the line over is the right way to do it and, heck, you need to improve your welding skills anyway..........

Brian
 

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More for Less Racer
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I would suggest fiberglassing it for toughness to abrasion at this spot. A little resin and cloth, then bondo. Cutting at red line will just create more work because you would have to take it loose in the jamb area to move it squarely.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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NO NOT use fiberglass. Straight up fiberglass resin and cloth does't sick to metal worth a darn. Believe me "Everglass" is the best product to use here, the best combination of "filler" and fiberglass.

Remember, body filler "bondo" is polyester based, fiberglass is polyester based. So they are really one in the same as far as technology.

The difference is, body filler is designed to stick to the metal, straight up fiberglass resin doesn't stick to metal worth a darn.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36



Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MARTINSR said:
NO NOT use fiberglass. Straight up fiberglass resin and cloth does't sick to metal worth a darn. Believe me "Everglass" is the best product to use here, the best combination of "filler" and fiberglass.

Remember, body filler "bondo" is polyester based, fiberglass is polyester based. So they are really one in the same as far as technology.

The difference is, body filler is designed to stick to the metal, straight up fiberglass resin doesn't stick to metal worth a darn.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36



Brian
I have some short strand fiber glass filler called "Bondo Glass" made by Bondo. I would think this product is close to the Everglass? Rough the surface with some 36 grit and apply?
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Yep, as long as it is very short strand. If it is "hairy" and "stringy" as you are spreading it out it may be too much to work with on a spot like that. If it spreads more like regular filler with just a "thick" feel to it it is much better and sticks much better in an area like this.

The long stringy stuff can't be pressed down for full contact (I have found) and just work like crap.

Brian
 
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