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Discussion Starter #1
I need to make my 5.3 GM Vortec look pretty. My '36 Speedster has stock valve covers with the coils mounted on them. It also has a Magnesun MP112 supercharger. What is a good solution to dress it up?
 

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If you have room, move the coils inside across the firewall.

There are coil covers (look like valve covers) out there but the price is way to high.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The engine bay is rather narrow originally intended for a straight 8. So I have struggled looking for a spot to relocate the coils. I never considered the firewall but there is no room on the driver side. i agree that the modular valve covers are a fortune (over $1000 for a pair). Is it critical to have the coils located close to the spark plugs?
 

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Another of custom builds have them mounted inside the cabin on the firewall. Gets rid of them and another of wiring on top of the engine. And its a cooler environment for them. I went the cheap route and bought some of the valve cover covers on Amazon. They were just polished aluminum and I painted them black.
Unfortunately I can't send you a pic of them because I don't have my latest build back together yet. Waiting on the machinest.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll have to take a closer look at spots to relocate the coils. As I mentioned earlier the engine bay is very narrow leaving the frame close to the exhaust manifolds and the firewall (both in the engine bay and interior) short of unused areas. I may have to go with the expensive valve cover covers. My son has been pushing for relocating the coils too. He's an engineer so I'll ask him where he might mount them as I just cannot see a spot. I really appreciate all of your folk's help!
 

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Eddie Motorsports LS Ignition Coil Covers MS109-35P

 

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See picture. I made these out of brushed SS from the front door where the propane tank goes on 2 gas grills. I added studs off of the coil mounts and used acorn nuts. The Bowtie grills were left over from the radiator grill.
 

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Have you thought of simply using the factory plastic covers that hide the valve covers/coils? You could repaint them (body colour?...), add a logo (painted, or original chrome ones...)...
Actually, typing this makes me wonder why I have not done that to my own LS engine!...
 

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These are the same ones I bought. But, if your alternator is mounted top right you will either have to notch that cover or use a different accsy. bracket.

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By the way, while on this subject has anyone come up with a easy method of removing the boot from spark plugs on an LS engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
By the way, while on this subject has anyone come up with a easy method of removing the boot from spark plugs on an LS engine?
I find it helps to twist the boot clockwise and counter-clockwise to break if loose before pulling on them.
 

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The wires could be pretty much as long as needed, but the stock short wires have the advantage of less resistance with standard resistor wire. Wire is rated as Ohms per foot, so the short wires just naturally have less resistance. I have considered moving my coils and have found there are U-cut kits available that have wires 45 inches long. Here's one:


Also, I have seen some stock valve covers that have had the coil mounts ground off, smoothed and painted. Cheap to do, but not the best look IMO if you are going to go to all the trouble to move the coils. Something like this would look better:


These covers allow you to keep the shorter wires and hide the coils, but you said you were cramped for room:


Considering the cost of long wires, trick valve covers, remote coil mounts and coil harness extensions, this would actually be cheaper if you have the room, since you could use the stock wires and coil harness.
 

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My 87 squarebody has been put on the back burner demoted to a truck to move things around the yard till next winter. That thing is going to be Heavily modified and require a couple grand and time to find right time right place deals on parts before I tear it down. Basically the windshield and roof will remain stock.

This year I am building a 94s10 fun build for summer, while updating maintaining a 01 2500HD, and the 94 1500 needs a new 5.7 dropped in once spring hits. Somewhere in there I am going to be playing with a lathe to build a engine. Finding cheap sources of 1/2 and 3/4 thick 2x4 steel blocks is the current main holdup.

I love square bodies and will get back to the 87 LS swap eventually. The 87 is getting the Computer and the coil packs hidden behind the firewall. I am using MSD wires meant for the LS with the required boot ends. I am setting the ecm above the tunnel with the coil pack groups on either side of the tunnel. The wires have a straight shot run through the firewall and go below the manifolds (which are flipped forward and up) directly to the plugs.. The additional length is not a concern. But I am going to add insulation between the wires to avoid cross firing. The ecm wiring is going along the sides of the intake, down by the starter, and along the side of the pan on the passenger side to the balancer. Wiring wise it will be very clean.

Below is the plug wires I am using. Not a fan of MSD electronics. But this kit has everything to run the wires inside the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The wires could be pretty much as long as needed, but the stock short wires have the advantage of less resistance with standard resistor wire. Wire is rated as Ohms per foot, so the short wires just naturally have less resistance. I have considered moving my coils and have found there are U-cut kits available that have wires 45 inches long. Here's one:


Also, I have seen some stock valve covers that have had the coil mounts ground off, smoothed and painted. Cheap to do, but not the best look IMO if you are going to go to all the trouble to move the coils. Something like this would look better:


These covers allow you to keep the shorter wires and hide the coils, but you said you were cramped for room:


Considering the cost of long wires, trick valve covers, remote coil mounts and coil harness extensions, this would actually be cheaper if you have the room, since you could use the stock wires and coil harness.
Thank you for the in-depth, detailed reply. I was looking under the hood again and there are simply no good spots to mount the coils on either side of the firewall. The frame is very close to the manifolds so location of the coils on top of the valve covers is a good spot. I will go with a 2 piece valve cover, which will be the simplest solution with also the best electrical performance as well IMHO. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you thought of simply using the factory plastic covers that hide the valve covers/coils? You could repaint them (body colour?...), add a logo (painted, or original chrome ones...)...
Actually, typing this makes me wonder why I have not done that to my own LS engine!...
I have a supercharger sitting on top of the engine so a factory cover will not fit. I have 2 plastic covers installed now that do a decent job of covering the coils and fuel injectors wires, but they look a bit cheesy, and one has broken mounts so it is just sitting there. Good suggestion otherwise!
 

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A lot of mention abut a cover of some form to take the coils from view. The hood covers everything just fine when closed. How about a mini hood under the hood to shield everything. Dave Kindig does a lot of “shrouds” on his car that covers the ugly. But then access for working on the engine is hindered.
 

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There is a company that makes a CNC aluminum cover that replaces the stock LS cover , Then you can install old school finned valve covers. That is what I am going to do on my 32 Ford coupe , to make the engine look like a old school chevy power plant.
Vic
 

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Just to add one more thing. Not all "stock" wires are the same length. I think the truck wires are the longest and the Vette and F-body wires are shorter. If you go with the 2 piece covers, you may want to wait until you have the covers before you buy your wires.

The valve covers rotate the coils to get them under the cover and you may need a slightly longer wire than what your engine came with.
 
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