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Discussion Starter #1
I know this subject has been beaten to death but for some of the new guys and or less experienced guys get the new Car Craft mag (lime green Boss 302 on the cover). It has a great article on it along with several other subjects like valve lash adjustment, how to stroke an engine and a very interesting dyno test with E85. Worth the price to read and keep in the roll-a-way for future reference.
 

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boatbob2
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cam break in

hi,when i build an engine,i liberally coat EVERYTHING with STP,cylinder walls,rings,valve springs,cam.lifters,all bearings,(NOT backside of bearings) timing chain and gears. ive never had a problem. after i start the engine,i run it at a fast idle(1800 rpm) for 5 minutes or so,keep an eye on the oil pressure,. let it cool down,start it again and drive it (watch the oil pressure) change oil and filter at 100 miles and again at 500 miles.im boatbob2
 

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Most of our engines are run on a dyno before they are shipped and we use the proper 1.35 or 1.2 rockers for break in or remove the inner springs if needed and run the engines at 2800 for 45 minutes ans so far no issues and we have been using the Bradd Pennoil 20/50 racing oil to break our cams in which i believe is the only 20/50 oil that is marketed as racing as most of the other 20/50 oils have had the zinc and phosephate lowered and is just a plain 20/50 nothing special and should not be used with falt tappet cams.

We also used the performance cam cores and the tool steel solid lifters and on the hyd. engines we use the lifters from the GM daler as they have the hardest bottoms on them.
 

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Some Punk Kid
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786 Posts
CNC, is using that racing oil or any other racing oil equal or better than using diesel oil for break in? I know they say the diesel still have all the additives that have been taken out of typical gasoline engine oil. I know alot of people like that shell rotella. I see it mentioned quite a bit on these forums. Im getting very close to firing up my engine and I want the best oil I cant get for break in as its a flat tappet cam.
 

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Chasing dreams with a ball bat
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545 Posts
I used Rotella as well, Crane recommends varying the RPMs from 1800 to 2500 to get the oil to splash in different places.

I also used the oil break in concentrate from Crane that they recommend. Break in went fine.
 

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Bottle Fed
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472 Posts
Rotella 15-40 and EOS. 20 minutes of 1500 to 3000 In 10 minute time spans.

I do like the Brad Penn oil that CNC mentioned. I believe it is the same oil as the old green Kendall 20/50. Excellent oil IMO.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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7,730 Posts
You guy's now know that Rotella-T has has been changed to meet the CJ-4 standards. Diesels didn't use to have have to so the use of this oil was okay. But not any more. Look on the bottles for the CJ-4 standard for emissions.
 

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The Penny Pincher
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I used STP on new rings once, about 30 yrs ago, never again.
It locked them up so bad I couldn't pry them out of the grooves.
(when I had to tear it down again to fix it.)
From now on, oil only for the rings. :pimp:
 

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Some Punk Kid
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786 Posts
johnsongrass1 said:
According to the website, the official time was late June 06.
So you would definitely suggest running a racing 20/50 instead now that diesel oils have the same zinc, and other anti friction stuff levels as gas oils. Or are there still some good diesel oils out there? I only have money to get this right once. I dont need to have to buy another cam/lifter set because then with that expense I could have gone solid roller once instead of flat twice.
Is EOS still sold at any chevrolet dealer?
 

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Bottle Fed
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472 Posts
EOS as far as I know can be bought from any GM brand dealership.

Death.... I broke in a some what aggressive flat tappet 2 weeks ago with Rotella-T and EOS. The the oil I have is the older stuff I believe.
If your running stout double springs it might be well worth the time to remove the inner springs.
 

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Some Punk Kid
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bigbadbowtie said:
EOS as far as I know can be bought from any GM brand dealership.

Death.... I broke in a some what aggressive flat tappet 2 weeks ago with Rotella-T and EOS. The the oil I have is the older stuff I believe.
If your running stout double springs it might be well worth the time to remove the inner springs.
My cam isnt that aggressive. 224 @ 050 .470 lift, both int/exh
All comp cams even the springs. The springs are single with a damper. They were recommended by comp cams for that cam. Ive been told stock springs would have been alright with that cam.

EDIT-Something else I have heard, thought I would see if you guys ever heard this. I have been told that breaking in an engine with open headers in somewhat cold weather is bad. I live in Michigan but lately the weather has been mild in the 40s. I plan I starting this thing up within the next week or so I dont know what the weather will be like then, but i was just wondering if any of you guys heard this.
 

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DeathRattle said:
CNC, is using that racing oil or any other racing oil equal or better than using diesel oil for break in? I know they say the diesel still have all the additives that have been taken out of typical gasoline engine oil. I know alot of people like that shell rotella. I see it mentioned quite a bit on these forums. Im getting very close to firing up my engine and I want the best oil I cant get for break in as its a flat tappet cam.
The old Kendall oil has worked for us for years and now that it is marketed as Brad Penn we use that and I would not dare try anything else.

Hopefully you are using a good cam core like I mentioned and a set of good lifters and If you have to remove the inner springs or use a lower rocker ratio for cam break ins.

Good luck with you break in
 

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Get in, sit down, hang on
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johnsongrass1 said:
You guy's now know that Rotella-T has has been changed to meet the CJ-4 standards. Diesels didn't use to have have to so the use of this oil was okay. But not any more. Look on the bottles for the CJ-4 standard for emissions.

Oh NO!!!
I just finished putting oil (15w40 Rotella T) in a couple of days ago, but haven't hit the switch yet ... I'll have to check.

All of the bottles that are on the shelf here at the store say "CI" ... so hopefully I'm OK.

I had planned to continue to run Rotella as suggested. Is it just the break-in period that is critical, or should a guy keep looking?

Perhaps I'll have to order a skid of oil and stockpile it?
Freaking Government!
 
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