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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys...I had previously posted about my engine burning copious amounts of oil and found out I installed the wrong size piston rings (thickness). Fast forward I bought a replacement block and dropped it at the machine shop. Getting it bored 0.030 so I can reuse my rods and pistons.

Today he calls and says the big end of my rods are “on the tight side.” Now these were on my previous build with zero bearing issues and plastigauged good. He wants $28 per rod to resize them. This build budget is completely off the rails, so I’m looking for some advice. I can understand if I had unusual wear from the rods being tight but I didn’t. They are Scat forged and only about 8k miles.

They also said my line bored was a little tight but this block had over 100k and the main bearings looked great.

I was told the block needed to be decked too because one side was .001 out and the other was .003 out. Is this excessive? I’m not using a shim head gasket and have iron heads.
 

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More for Less Racer
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Tell him to leave them alone. On the tight side means more bearing crush, which means it is being held tighter in the rod.
If it turns out you need more clearance when you check it, you can use either 1/2 shell or full shell of a +.001" oversize bearing to fine tune the clearance.

Exact same deal on the mains. If man line is straight but just slightly tight bores, leave it alone, adjust clearance if needed with different size bearing shells.

I don't know where you are, but in my neck of the woods, $28 per rod is outrageous if he isn't also changing bolts, cutting cap or rod or both, and also honing pin end of a full float rod....just a straight resize on the big end is $12-15, my guy is just less than $10/ea if all he is doing is dusting touch-up of a set of tight rods on the hone. Basically, shop rate for time needed is all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tell him to leave them alone. On the tight side means more bearing crush, which means it is being held tighter in the rod.
If it turns out you need more clearance when you check it, you can use either 1/2 shell or full shell of a +.001" oversize bearing to fine tune the clearance.

Exact same deal on the mains. If man line is straight but just slightly tight bores, leave it alone, adjust clearance if needed with different size bearing shells.

I don't know where you are, but in my neck of the woods, $28 per rod is outrageous if he isn't also changing bolts, cutting cap or rod or both, and also honing pin end of a full float rod....just a straight resize on the big end is $12-15, my guy is just less than $10/ea if all he is doing is dusting touch-up of a set of tight rods on the hone. Basically, shop rate for time needed is all.
Thank you Eric I will do that. Like I said everything gauged fine on the previous build using this same crank and rods.

Apparently my crank had also been balanced wrong previously. The last shop welded a slug into the #1 rod throw, not the counter weight. This shop is going to check the balance and said it would be $250. Again, I had no vibration up to 6k and also no signs of wear on my mains.

What are your thoughts on the deck square measurements?
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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We don 't know if that .001-.003 corner to corner, top to bottom, side to side, low or high in the middle?
If the deck is flat, leave it alone. If it's low in the middle or high in the middle or wavy than you gotta decide what to do base on the application. I'd most likely leave it.

On the rod deal, if the bores are round and clearances okay you can leave them alone. If they aren't round, buy some Scat replacements, but you'll still have to check them for roundness.
 
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