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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, my wife convinced me that we (she) needed a second hotrod. We already have a ‘72 Nova street/strip car (emphasis strip). She said we need something we can cruise around in more often. Me being me, I was all on board. I found a very nice ‘63 Chevy II. It’s already been mini-tubed, F&R coil overs and disc brakes, new paint, strange 9” w/ 3.89 gears, subframe connectors…it just needs to be finished. The engine is actually an original OTC 1965 L84 375hp 327. However, when the previous owner started rebuilding the car, he put in a forged 383 rot assy. The fuelie heads were comp ported, Winters intake, 750DP and he put in a solid F/T “140 off road” cam (11:1CR). After looking more into this cam, I’m not a fan. The original PG was rebuilt for quite a bit of power and he put in a 8” 5400 converter :oops:. The wiring needed to be finished up and a few (a lot) of odds & ends, details needed to be finished. While in the process of tackling these things, I have been able to convince my wife, she will not like the way this car runs & drives 😁. So now I’ve ordered AFR CNC’d 195’s, HRC 241/247 .545/.565” (.581/.603 w/ 1.6 rockers) 112lsa, all the recommended valvetrain parts to go with it. Also checked with AFR about what their spring pressures where. All is good there. Holley Stealth 4150 EFI kit, performer RPM intake (air-gap is crazy back ordered). I’ll likely add a 1/2”-1” spacer. Since it will be a cruiser, I will be ordering a TCI street fighter 700R4 and their 2800 converter (that’s the stall speed HRC recommended). The compression will still be right around 11:1, and the plan is to run 93 octane and have the Holley Stealth custom tuned. I’d imagine this will still be on the street/strip side, but should be very livable. It’s certainly a lot more tame than my ‘72 Nova. I think my expectations should be realistic at around 1.35hp/ci (515-520hp) & 1.25tq/ci (465-475tq). I figure it might spin to 6400-6600.

What’s your thoughts?
 

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So, my wife convinced me that we (she) needed a second hotrod. We already have a ‘72 Nova street/strip car (emphasis strip). She said we need something we can cruise around in more often. Me being me, I was all on board. I found a very nice ‘63 Chevy II. It’s already been mini-tubed, F&R coil overs and disc brakes, new paint, strange 9” w/ 3.89 gears, subframe connectors…it just needs to be finished. The engine is actually an original OTC 1965 L84 375hp 327. However, when the previous owner started rebuilding the car, he put in a forged 383 rot assy. The fuelie heads were comp ported, Winters intake, 750DP and he put in a solid F/T “140 off road” cam (11:1CR). After looking more into this cam, I’m not a fan. The original PG was rebuilt for quite a bit of power and he put in a 8” 5400 converter :oops:. The wiring needed to be finished up and a few (a lot) of odds & ends, details needed to be finished. While in the process of tackling these things, I have been able to convince my wife, she will not like the way this car runs & drives 😁. So now I’ve ordered AFR CNC’d 195’s, HRC 241/247 .545/.565” (.581/.603 w/ 1.6 rockers) 112lsa, all the recommended valvetrain parts to go with it. Also checked with AFR about what their spring pressures where. All is good there. Holley Stealth 4150 EFI kit, performer RPM intake (air-gap is crazy back ordered). I’ll likely add a 1/2”-1” spacer. Since it will be a cruiser, I will be ordering a TCI street fighter 700R4 and their 2800 converter (that’s the stall speed HRC recommended). The compression will still be right around 11:1, and the plan is to run 93 octane and have the Holley Stealth custom tuned. I’d imagine this will still be on the street/strip side, but should be very livable. It’s certainly a lot more tame than my ‘72 Nova. I think my expectations should be realistic at around 1.35hp/ci (515-520hp) & 1.25tq/ci (465-475tq). I figure it might spin to 6400-6600.

What’s your thoughts?
Neither one of the engine builds does not sound like a cruiser to me, but it is your car.
I had a -65 Chevy II, they are fun cars and your wife sounds like a keeper:)
 

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More for Less Racer
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Is the new cam a solid or hydraulic flat?? or a roller??
With those specs, driveability:
Solid , I'd say you're good.
Hydraulic , I say it's a bit much for a 2800 stall.
The lash gives the solid better low end manners.

Which AFR 195cc head, the CNC'd Street or Race version??
Race version will get your power numbers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is the new cam a solid or hydraulic flat?? or a roller??
With those specs, driveability:
Solid , I'd say you're good.
Hydraulic , I say it's a bit much for a 2800 stall.
The lash gives the solid better low end manners.

Which AFR 195cc head, the CNC'd Street or Race version??
Race version will get your power numbers
It’s a hyd roller. The 2800 stall is exactly what the cam manufacturer and stall manufacturer recommended. It is just the street CNC version. They’re flowing 290cfm @ .600”. I’ve seen these exact heads make almost 530hp with a 236/242 .555” 110lsa HR, 10.6:1CR on 91 octane. But that was with an air-gap intake and 950 HP carb. I believe it was 527hp. It made 8-9hp more with a victor jr. I’d like to run the air-gap intake, but they are more than 6 months out for back orders. I plan to gasket match the performer rpm and run a 1/2”-1” spacer, which will nearly identically mimic the air-gap plenum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you do not have the heads yet, look at profiler 205 cc heads and maybe just use 1.6 rockers on the intake side?
Profiler were the first company I called. I’ve always been a huge fan of theirs and have run their heads on a ton of engines. However, they do 185, 195 & 210cc runners. Their CNC’d X heads are 235cc. Originally I had planned to run their non ported 195’s. However, their spring seat pressure would have cause valve float on this cam. Both them and Howard’s told me that. They are 60lbs at open pressure, under what was recommended by HRC. We talked about me sending them the correct spring kit, but it was going to be just over $1700 total cost to my door for that. For $75 more, I got the CNC’d AFR 195 street heads, with the correct spring pressure and about 10-15cfm more from .300-600”. I figured it was a no brained at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Neither one of the engine builds does not sound like a cruiser to me, but it is your car.
I had a -65 Chevy II, they are fun cars and your wife sounds like a keeper:)
My wife and I both like a cruiser a bit on the wilder side. It’s all about what you’re willing to tolerate. I have a ‘72 nova as well with a rather nasty bbc. It has a 272 @ .050, .722” 108LSA SR and 4400 converter. We cruise around in it some. It would be a bit more fun to cruise in if it didn’t have kirkey seats, 8.50 12pnt cage and exhaust that is just racing bullets and before the axle dumps.

We’ve been together a long time and I’ve had a ton of wild cars. To her, if it ain’t fast and doesn’t sound a bit wild, she ain’t impressed.

She has always preferred the ‘62-67 Chevy II’s and the 64,65 & 67 chevelles. I found this ‘63 and I knew she’d love it.
 

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Engine is a BBC 427 bored .030, heads are Edelbrock aluminum oval port w 2.25 intake and 1.88 exhaust. Compression is 11:1 using replacement Corvette L71 (435 horse) dome pistons. Long 4 tube headers. Edelbrock flat tappet cam shaft with spec:
292° Intake/302° Exhaust
Duration @ .050''218° Intake/228° Exhaust
Lift @ Valve.500'' Intake/.500'' Exhaust
Lift @ Cam.295'' Intake/.295'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle114°
Intake Centerline109°
Intake Timing @ .050"Open 0° ATDC
Close 38° ABDC
Exhaust Timing @ .050"Open 53° BBDC
Close 5° BTDC
Vacuum @ 800 RPM Idle15/16
Timing is set at 12 degrees and vacuum is 15/16. I have a HEI small diameter distributor I built up using stock cast iron distributor. Uses MSD/Ford pick up/reluctor and Pertroix male pin cap. I have previously posted the entire build up of the distributor. Rotor is the long tip type so clearance to contacts is .008”/.010”. The module and “E” type coil are Delco production items. Engine seems to run best with manifold vacuum. Centrifugal timing is 16 degrees, vacuum timing is 7 degrees. Rotor phase has been verified good. Carb is Quick Fuel SS780VS 4 corner idle screws (w/tuning). I recently changed to Quick Fuel HR580VS w/4 corner idle (also plenty of brass modifications) for much smoother operation. Quick Fuel out of the box was unusable.
 
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