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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Names jerry and I just acquired my first classic..... I'm 27, always have been i...nto hondas and am finally growing up into the big boys toys lol..... My new project is a 72 c10 short bed witha 350c.i short block, with edelbrock rpm intake manifold, holley carburetor, edelbrock headers, and straight piped...... She's a tad rusty but hey.....no project its ever clean....

 

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Faith - Respect - Trust
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Well Jerry it was a bit more than "just a bit"...I had many hours into the paint and body. As I have mentioned in other posts, 1,308 pieces where individually painted. It was a frame off, with every nut and bolt either replaced or refurbished. The color is PPG Burnt Orange Tri-coat. Base color is a bright blue and the ghost flames are air brushed with 7 different shades of blue...The engine is a 502, with a turbo charger so it's about 800 HP. I only did the paint and body, I didn't do the drive train or interior (He had family members that did that). The paint and body with the dis-assembly paint and reassembly was about 650 hours. That includes painting the engine and transmission body color, the bottom of the cab and box are color sanded and polished as of course is the outside. Even things like the gas tank behind the seat is body color and polished. The truck was in respectable shape and the only panels replaced because of rust where the rocker panels.

I saw your truck and thought you might like to see the one I did.

If you need information or I can help, just let me know.

Best of Luck on your build
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you I highly appreciate that...... Little by little I'm seeing I have a hell of a lot of work starting with replacing the cab. as I removed the air conditioning boxes, heater chore, wiring harness, and controls I just find more and more problems with rust and wiring..... The wiring is no problem.....it's the rust I'm worried about...... Also I'm having a problem with the column shifter that it's extremely loose and doesn't lock into any great which caused me to put it between gears and mess something up so now I have to shift from low to high manually.......and it will only shift in high rom.....it's just a pain to find another th350 here in orlando....
 

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Your shifting problem may be linkage related...of course I'm not there but I've seen it before. The bad thing about the rust is that it's rust...the good thing is they make all kinds of replacement panels...is it that bad that you need to replace the cab? If I can give you some advice, everything you take off the truck tag it and bag it. Even the stuff you know your going to throw away, if it's tagged and bagged you can use it as a reference when you replace it. Also pictures...lots of pictures...I would have had a real issue if I didn't take pictures. I had a situation in the past where aftermarket rad support bushings where completely different than factory, so on my 72 build I took pictures of rad support height, sure enough, the aftermarket product wasn't recognizable compared to the factory GM part...save me lots of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes sure it is that bad....... I'll take a video of it and post it up so that you gentlemen can decide if I should replace the cab or not....... I am slowly learning about carburetors at the moment because the holley 4 barrel I have in there is beastly.....I'm running way rich right now and do not know how to adjust our sync them and I really don't have the funds to pay a toys shop to get her perfect.... I really really want to get her down low......but I can't find the correct kit for the treat because everything I've found is for leaf spring and I don't have leaf springs in the rear
 
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