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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have a 1986 chevy c-10 with and 1975 350 engine and 350 turbo trans with a shift kit. It has a 288 comp cam and 600 edlebrock carb. Im about to put a 1900-2200 stall in it this weekend. what i need is advice on what i should do to it next, im on a limited buget but want to make it better, faster you know all the good stuff. I want to do all this stuff myself but like i said im new to this, when i rebuilt the carb a couple weeks ago it was the first time i'v ever seen the inside of a carb, everyone was telling me how hard it was but i was kinda disapponted i was expecting more. but like i said i need advise on what to do next, thanks
 

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I agree with techinspector. That converter you are putting in is not much more than a stock converter. If you want a stall converter, I'd look at least a 2800 or so stall. As far as performance, start with the bolt on stuff first, like intake, headers, gears, (sounds you like have the carb) and ignition. That always shows improvement and are fun projects you can do and learn by. If you want cheap horsepower, there is always bolting up a nitrous oxide system. You'll definitely see a difference and turn heads.
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
thanks but the gear ration thing i do not get. could you tell me what all that means and how to change it. Like i said im new and lets just say i know allmost nothing. And im not going to be able to find a stall the size for the same price by sat. am i? What what do you mean by intake and all that stuff, sorry but you have to be specific with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
not that i took offense to that but i did not start in the wrong end im just tring to fix where someone else started at the wrong end. becasue the truck is not reliable enough to drive right now. so what do you mean by changing the gears, because if this fixes my current problem then i can do it the right way.
 

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The camshaft in your vehicle requires a certain stall # and rear differential gear ratio.

Rear differential / rear end / axle / (insert name here).




Rear gear which has a ratio.




Think of it like a ten speed bicycle. In speed 1 you have to do a lot of pedaling to go anywhere but it's easier to get up steep hills. In speed 10, it's hard to turn the pedal crank but you go faster with less rotations.

The stall and gear you have don't match your cam. Your cam will start making power and stop making power in the higher rpm range. When you hop on that 10 speed in 10th from a dead stop you'll start rolling but not very quickly. So you need to start in a higher gear ratio which would be closer to 1st gear.

Same for your engine. It just isn't making the power at that low of rpms to get the car going because the cam isn't made to make power so low in the rpm range. So you defeat the whole purpose of a cam. Also, by adding a higher gear ratio you take off faster but have a lower top speed. In drag racing you want to cross the line when your car is just about out of rpm or when your engine stops making power.

Take two stock automobiles. One with a high gear ratio, say a 3.73 ratio) and one with a low gear ratio (2.5 gears). They have the same power but the one with the higher gear ratio (3.73) is going to get up and go faster, but the one with the lower ratio (2.5) will ultimately be able to achieve a high top end speed. Back to the bicycles. One guy is on speed 10 and the other 1. The guy on speed 1 will blow by the guy in speed 10, but eventually the guy in speed 10 will pass up the guy in speed 1 because he can only go so fast in that speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks that helped alot. so what gear ratio do i want with my truck, im going to assume stock for mine is 3.72 or 3.73 my cam is 288 but prob a low end cam because it had a 295 and was crushing valve springs so he put in a 288 and the stall is a 2500-2700 holeshot B&M. and what is compression ratio, how do i change it and how do i test to see what mine is. and if it makes a diff the valve springs are double spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How do i fix this problem with out getting a new carb. i have gas leaking on the left side of my carb. the right is fine, i have rebuilt the carb and that did not fix the proble.
 

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Need more info than that. Since it's an Edelbrock 600, it may be coming from the fuel inlet at the rear of the carb. That's the part that fuel line connects to the carb. There is a vinyl washer that goes on the nipple that is pretty common for getting pinched or worn out. You may need a new gasket there or try tightening the nipple a little more and see if that stops. Edelbrocks are not know for leaking, so it may be something simple. Where is the fuel coming out of? Top of carb, fuel lines, etc. Did you adjust the float level correctly? Make sure everything is tightened correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its coming out of the top of the carb, i striped 3 bolts puting the carb back on so everything should be tight enough, the floats are right, i can open the butterfly at the front of the carb and i can see it driping in from the needle on the left not sure what if is called.
 

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I think your talking about the idle mixture needle or the squirter for the venturi (throat of carb). You should never overtighten carb screws, they don't need to be real tight. It still sounds like the float level to me. If the float is adjusted correctly, you problem may be a bad float needle. The float in the bowl rises and the needle shuts the flow of gas off at a certain level and then when gas is used, it allows a small amount back into the carb. Sometimes dirt or even gasket material can get caught in the float needle and seat. It sounds like the float is not shutting the flow of gas off which will cause the gas to flow out the squirter tube and into the carb as you are stating. Go to Edelbrock's site, they have a excellent troubleshooting section.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/carb_faq.shtml
 
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