I concure with Yougster on using the Chassis Engieering steering arms. They're forged, not cast. CE offers their arms in two "drops". One mounts the tie rod about 1.5" below the centerline of the backing plate mounting holes in the spindle. The other about 2.5 ".
Aside from being forged, the other point I like about CE is that the arms mount with through bolts. That is, you put the bolts through the backing plate (or caliper mount) through the spindle and through the steering arm and put locking nuts on the bolts. I prefer the nuts be exposed as opposed to putting the nuts inside the drum because you can see the nuts and the prescribed three threads of the bolts during your pre-flight.
Othe brands of steering arms are cast (some may be forged, the info is a tad sketchy here) and they are mounted with bolts from the backing plate side into blind holes in the arms. Should a bolt or bolts loosen, you may not catch'em in time. These may look a bit cleaner, but I prefer the logic of the bolt and nut design.
Yes, I do tend to ramble on.... sorry.
With the tie rod out in front, you no longer have the correct steering Ackerman (sp) geometry. As I recall, in a top view of the car, this amounts to lines drawn through the king pins center lines through the steering arm/tie rod mounting holes to converge at the companion flange of the rear end.
With the tie rod out front, it is conceivable to heat and bend the steering arms to produce the correct Ackerman but in doing so, you probably won't be able to mount brakes or maybe even wheels on the car.