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Discussion Starter #1
Took my new rodeo to get a new clutch put in with other parts.

Ended up charging me an arm and a leg and now the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and I feel no pressure. It will only change gears when I push it all the way down. Also reverse always goes in with a loud KA-CHUNK unless I put it in first, first.

Anyone got any ideas as to what I should tell the guy, or the problem with the peddle?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Even for a hydraulic clutch, they can adjust it?

I should have just done the work myself, why did I ever try to make things simple for myself, why?
 

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87442lover said:
Even for a hydraulic clutch, they can adjust it?

I should have just done the work myself, why did I ever try to make things simple for myself, why?

If you pump on the clutch pedal rapidly before shifting, does it engage any easier? Could be something as simple as he forgot to bleed the system.
 

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dmc12mk3 said:
If you pump on the clutch pedal rapidly before shifting, does it engage any easier? Could be something as simple as he forgot to bleed the system.
It's possible that there is some air in it. Some late model hyd. clutches can cause problems if the flywheel is surfaced. The flywheel often needs to be shimmed after surfacing to get the pedal heigth correct. Often there is no method provided to adjust it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
slave cylinder and master cylinder is not leaking, system has been bleed. Pumping it does not help it. The pedal has to be all the way to the floor for it to disengage. I have no more time this week to look at it, or take it back to him. I will have to wait for next week to come around.

New flywheel was installed btw... or at least thats what he said(and charged for).
 

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Just because he bled it, doesn't mean the air is out. Sometimes the only way to get all the air out is to vacuum bleed the system. Also, it's possible that the clutch is faulty. I had one with a similar problem, but in a GM truck. Upon inital disengagement, a piece of the discs hub broke out, and did not allow for full disengagement. Swapped in a new clutch disc, and problem solved.
 

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Crawl under the car and have a buddy press the clutch slowly for you so you can see the slave cylinder work. Will give you an idea of where the trouble is and might indicate that for whatever reason, the pushrod is not able to move its full stroke to push on the clutch fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmm.. thanks for all the pointers everyone!

Just got to get some time to myself now.
 

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clutch

adjustment should be on pedal, look up at pedal laying on your back you will see a 12mm lock nut on the shaft that connecting pedal to master cylinder loosen nut and use pilers to adjust rod out longer or shorter which every meets your needs, tighten nut so rod wont back off.
 
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