[crazy larry]

Hey everybody. I'm wanting to build a dedicated drag only car. brand doesn't matter, I'll probably end up running several different motors in it before it's all said and done. But I do want to make this car as easy and clean as possible. I'd like to be able to swap motors, and possibly transmissions, and only have to hook up the radiator, starter, alternator, and coil wiring. I figure you could set up a MSD 6 or better, and be able to do that....??? can you? while i'm thinking out loud, I think a painless type wiring system would be a good idea, just to start with all new wiring, so I'd know it was good, and not a fire hazard and i could run only the circuits i'd be needing and not have all the extraneous wiring present.... So what would be the cleanest best way to set all this up? and not have to change this or that whenever a motor swap occurs.
my thoughts are back half and tub the rear-end. narrowed 9 inch. full cage interior with one seat. and an engine compartment that is just waiting for a motor. what would be the problem dropping a sbc or bbc in when it had been set up for a ford? If the wiring for the starter, alternator, and coil were ready to attach, what else would it take?
if it matters, there is a 75 firebird i can pick up for $400 that needs the motor and tranny installed. I'm thinking it would make an excellent drag car, esp with a BBF stuffed off in it.

thoughts and input good or bad appreciated.

 

[poncho62]

For interchangeability of engines and trannys, I have only one suggestion.........................Chevy.

 

[tbirdscott]

Do It! Do It! Do It!

I have been kicking around the idea of dropping a 351W into a 2nd gen camaro for a while. Aside from the chevy guys most people get a kick out of the idea and would love to see it done (the chevy guys usually threaten the lives of you and your loved ones :spank: ) just think of all the poor model A's that have been disgraced with a 350 :nono: I've been looking for a cheap shell of a camaro for a month or two but cars in this region have rust issues, hopefully I can find something by summer.... but yeah for $400 if its solid and since you probabally plan on gutting the interior anyway it would seem like a good deal

 

[oldschoolrods]

All I have to say is Turbocharged 390 :mwink:

 

[Nightfire]

427 Cobra Jetimp:









Mike

 

[Kevin45]

Hey Larry...Look around at what cars are abundant and go from there. Look at what 'glass parts are made if you ever decide to go with a 'glass nose or fenders. Is the type of car your looking at quite abundant in the junkyards? Just in case you need to get spare parts. Yu just don't want to race a Rolls Canardly if you can't find replacement parts. In your area a Firebird would probably be a good candidate. Around here by the time you buy them cheap they have already outlived any usefullness they may have had. Some people around here hand them down thru generations until the urethane front starts rusting off

 

[Beenaway2long]

Larry-
Look REAL good at the rear "frame" members. Even though you're going to back half it, the whole rear end is susceptable to ROT. I'm frame railing a 73 Z-28 as we speak. If you will be dragracing only, plan on tying in the front frame, then channeling the floors around it. LOTS of work ahead brother! From what you mentioned, I would

1.) Buy a backhalf for that year with the subframe connectors. and install that before you even think of entirely removing the old floors and tubbing it. You need to only make a cut as wide as the sub-frame members. The floor is what holds that car together.
2.) Keep as much original floor as possible.
3.) Don't forget your front driveshaft loop (NHRA mandatory)
4.) Be sure to seal up the wheel tubs to the body. Seam seal EVERYTHING. The smoke will drive you NUTS. For a few bucks and 1/2 pound, its worth it.
5.) Stick with ONE style motor. It will be cheaper in the long run. SBC parts are the cheapest, as you know. BBC will get the best big block bang for the buck, and takes nitrous pretty well. Changing the motor brands involves custom oil pans, relocating motormounts, effects chassis set up BIG time. Also consider transmission swaps. Sticking a 351W in a car setup for a powerglide doesn't work well.
6.) Using an adjustable 4 link makes adjusting instant center a breeze. Dial in your "bite".
7.) Don't take drag racing TOO serious. It become consuming. It will eat your weekends up. You will have no time. I did it with a SNOWMOBILE and ran 9.72 @ 135mph on pump gas. Near trailable motor. 10.22 @118 with my trail sled.

Have fun!