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1965 Impala SS Convertible
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone.I got a 65 Impala with a 327.I found out that my oil is leaking out because I have a broken bolt on my Timing chain cover.The bolt head snapped off so its now tight it that spot.I was told I could tap it out if I drill out the old bolt and use a self tapping bolt.Will this work?If I try to drill out the old bolt,will and metal shaving get in the engine?Also,I have a leak on my Transmission.Its leaking right where one of the bolts are that hold the transmission pan.Could it be that the gasket is broke in that spot?If anyone has some info please let me know.Thanks,

Eazy
 

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Getting a timing cover bolt out with the engine in the car isn't gonna be to easy do to space constrants.Probably your best bet is to remove to the timing cover and drill a small hole in the bolt and use an easy out. Becareful though you don't wanna break the easy out in the bolt as they are amost impossible to drill through. Being a timing cover bolt chances are that it shouldn't be to hard to get out. This is the rout I would try first
 

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1965 Impala SS Convertible
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well the bolt is closer to the top of timing chain cover.If I take off the cooling fan and the water pump I can get to it.What is an easy out?I never heard of that before.How does it work?Thanks,

Eazy
 

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broken bolt

after you get the timing cover off, cover everything on the front of the engine with rags, and especially around the front of the oil pan, before you start drilling into that bolt. Before you try to take it out, squirt some thread buster or rust buster stuff on it and let it soak for a day. Shoot it 3-4 times and let it soak in first.
If you have enough of the bolt sticking out, you may be able to get a set of vice grips on it. That will save you a lot of drilling, etc.
At anyrate soak it good with a solvent made for loosening bolts etc.

An easy out looks something like a dull drill bit with 4 twisted flukes on it. There are several sizes of them. You will want one that starts out with a tip somewhat smaller than the hole you drill but tapers up to a larger size than the hole. You can get them at any hardware store.
The flukes have a left hand twist to them vs the right hand twist of the threads on your bolt. As you turn the easy out into the hole, turning it counterclockwise, it will tighten into the bolt and hopefully it will break it loose and you can turn it out.

If your bolt is not broken off smooth across the tip, you will want to file or grind it down smooth so you can center punch it in order to get a drill bit to take a bite in it.

Im thinking that is a 1/4 inch bolt so you will want to start by drilling a 1/16th pilot hole in the bolt then go up to an 1/8th inch drill bit. be careful to drill it straight in or when you put the easy out into it, and turn it, the bolt may crack out on you.

You will want to drill in at the very least an inch.

easy outs usually come in a kit of 4 or 5. The larger easy outs have more flukes on them.
They will have a square end on them to use with either a tap drive or use with wrench that will fit the flats of the end.
 

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machinest & A&P Mechanic
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363 Posts
drilling a bolt like that out is always an option, however i always leave that for last. what i do first is soak the sucker in oil for a few days. then i clean the broken area out as good as i can then i weld a nut onto the broken shank of the bolt and with heat and oil i gently work the bolt out. loosening then tighting, going back and forth as i spray oil (good PENETRATING oil) like kroil, or PB blaster. if she is still stuck i sometimes get a hammer and give the bolt a few raps, sometimes this is just enough to break it loose. then you continue turning the bolt back and forth tell she comes out.

if this does not work THEN i would file the shank flat, then get a punch and make a punch mark directly in the center. do a good job the first time because its hard to correct yourself. then i use a REVERSE drill bit to try to drill though, use a smaller bit, like a 1/16 then drill again with a 1/8 then use the easy out.

hope this helps

oh and about your tranny, i would just replace the gasket, it wouldn't hurt to change the fluid and filter to while your down their :)

-Leo-

oh and i almost forgot, if you are REALY lucky sometimes if you spray carb cleaner at the broken bolt (to clean the area) and you pull out a dental pick and push on the edge of the bolt and turn. SOMETIMES (rarely) it starts to back out! i have dont this a few times, saved my rear... worked when other things couldn't have. :thumbup:
 

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Come Home Safe Soldier
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846 Posts
Just to add a little to Old Schools Suggestions,drill it slowly if you have a speed setting.That way your shavings will come out in longer threads instead of a lot of little shavings.If you have a magnet,lay it under your drilling area,but make sure everything is covered well.Use a new bit,preferably one specifically for metal,like a cobalt bit. A left handed bit can grab and bring the broken piece right on out,it will not always do that,but it is nice when it does.
 

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one more old school,

the block expands much more than the bolt with heat, spray it with blaster then warm up the motor, spray it again, do it again the next day and the next to work the blaster into the threads.

when you do try all the above good ideas for getting the bolt out, do have the block good and warm.
 

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wind & fire = guides to power
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Also if you can avoid it do NOT remove the timing chain until the bolt has been drilled. not always the case but if possible leave it on while drilling.
 

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it's that CRS....Max...

I'll add one more way, not enough for vice grips but some exposed.

I use a 2" long piece of a file to make a screwdriver slot in the end of the bolt.

Use a right angle screw driver, push hard and turn slowly while a friend tap tap taps sharply on the bend on the driver.
 
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