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My oil pressure guage is the type that has the little oil line that runs from the back of the motor. Ive tried several times but it has always leaked right where the hose goes into the brass fitting going into the motor. What is the trick to getting these to not leak?
 

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WFO
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My oil pressure guage is the type that has the little oil line that runs from the back of the motor. Ive tried several times but it has always leaked right where the hose goes into the brass fitting going into the motor. What is the trick to getting these to not leak?
After a compression fitting is taken off and on a few times they can get to the point where they no longer seal. If you have a plastic line, cut it squarely to remove the ferrule that's crimped onto the line.

Most any parts house will sell you a small bag of replacement ferrules for a pittance, reuse the rest of the fitting as long as the threads are OK.

 

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After a compression fitting is taken off and on a few times they can get to the point where they no longer seal. If you have a plastic line, cut it squarely to remove the ferrule that's crimped onto the line.

Most any parts house will sell you a small bag of replacement ferrules for a pittance, reuse the rest of the fitting as long as the threads are OK.

The complete fitting part number is a Weatherhead # 68x2 (Retail $1.40 CDN)
which is 1/8 NPT pipe thread on one end (which screws into the engine), and the other end is a 1/8" tube compression fitting.

You can buy JUST the ferrule if you like.
Weatherhead P/N for that is 60x2. (Retail $0.17 CDN)

Also ... I dislike / distrust plastic tubing as I had a bad experience. My brother borrowed my car, and the tubing blew out of the fitting. It's amazing how quickly you can drain an oil pan out of a 1/8" diameter hole with a high-volume oil pump.:eek:

To complicate matters, he broke the brass fitting off clean at the engine while attempting to tighten things up again. (He was 17, I was 21 at the time.)

Needless to say, there were a few cuss-words uttered as I used an easy-out to remove the broken fitting.

I played it safe, replaced the platic tubing with copper. Yes, I made the line long enough to add a couple of 3" loops to accomodate engine movement and vibration.
 

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Oil line leak

I had the same problem when I installed mine, when you screw in the fitting going on to the manifolid I use permatex utra cooper silcone around threads. Next put the plastic tubing throught the cuplink then the little cuplink with enough tubing to fit a the way down aplly the silcone around those threads also. last tighten down and make sure your not cross threading, do the same to the guage in the car the silcone will prevent it from leaking. If all else fells Autozone has a kit that comes with the tube and fitting for like $5 bucks to start over. Hope this helps:thumbup:
 

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Bad idea!
Use a sealer for the fitting into the block but never use sealer on a compression or flared fitting. JMHO
 

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Do yourself a favor and replace the plastic line with copper. I had a 68 RS SS Camaro with the plastic line and it broke at the gauge in the console and pumped 4 qts. of oil in my floorboard before I knew what was wrong.
 

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Do yourself a favor and replace the plastic line with copper. I had a 68 RS SS Camaro with the plastic line and it broke at the gauge in the console and pumped 4 qts. of oil in my floorboard before I knew what was wrong.
Ditto.
Do it right.
Do it once.
 

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Plastic line can be run inside vacuum tubing to protect it and prevent kinks. Similar to how the OEM did w/copper tubing- before they discontinued using it in favor of steel or plastic, they used a bonded rubber outer covering on them especially in places where there could be contact w/anything. The factory also used a double loop at the end to help keep the copper line from breaking from metal fatigue or work hardening and to compensate for temp changes.

If the line is going to be changed, change it to something that's better than either: Braided Stainless Steel Mechanical Gauge Hose Kit
 
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