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Okay all you master painters, how would you mask this to paint using house of color supplies. I have done one color jobs but not sur how this would shot. Do I put clear coats inbetween, or should I use sg-100, how should it be done?
 

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i see you've been to deano's website. i recognize thier work a mile away and they are one of the best out there. you wouldn't put one graqphic on top of the next because this would end up with too high a film thickness especailly with sg-100. what you really want to do is have all the graphics butt up to one another then clearcoat the entire thing, wetsand smooth, pinstripe everything and dropshadow the graphics so it appears one graphic is lying on top of the other. i'm not sure if i am being clear, its hard to explain. you can base the whole set in white then clearcoat and wetsand. from there all your graphics should be on the same layer.
 

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Jim,
I knew there was a reason I don't paint cycles.

The strips no problem but the checkerboard is not just black and white, it can't be taped???
Do they use a template?
This thing would drive you to drinking just looking at this thing and trying to figure out how you would tape and where you would start!
 

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yeah, there are so many ways to attack something like this its not funny. instead of just basing white then clear, you can base white then lay on the black checks, then clear and start in with the stripes. if you want a straight checked flag (like the pic) you can go in with a wide fine line tape and lay out the checks that way. if you want a more flowing flag then mask off the whole white base with transfer-rite or masking tape then take a fine sharpie, draw your flag and with an exacto cut out the checks to be colored. i'm not sure if you have ever seen these guys work in person or not but its really amazing and this is actually one of their more simple designs. they have about the tightest paintwork i've seen. thier website is www.custompainting.com. go through the graphics gallery and you'll be amazed. i've got a long way to go before i get as big as thses guys are.
 

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I do alot of graphics like that hours apon hours but its wearth it hearing complaments & (how is that done) its a great fealing I just started off simple like pin stripes & then more color & more desighn & bam you will suprise yourself sooner than you think
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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Get Craig Fraiser's video
Automotive Cheap Trick's & Special F/X #3
He does a simular graphic layout.
It's a complex layout but he does the whole thing start to finish.
It's helped me alot from the composition stand point as it's EASY to get lost in your work with a project like that.
Also WHY it cost's BIGGGGG $$$$$$ for the work.

I'm in the process of doing "Bubbles" on a little girl's Jr. Dragster now which isn't that bad,just getting the random chaos going on so they don't have a pattern is a little difficult.
 

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If you study the job you will see where the steps are broken down. The colors can be done over one another if a midcoat clear was applied and lightly sanded so no tape lines show through. Solid colors rarely show any lines anyway. There's a lot of hours in work there but actually not very complicated. After all the colors are applied then the shadows were airbrushed in.
 

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clearcoating after each color is applied is alot of unneeded clearcoating sessions and is going to make a paint film way too thick. you can base it out in a color then clear and appy all the graphics but really all those graphics should be on the same level so to speak. once they are all on then its clearcoated again, pinstriped and dropshadowed and cleared again.
 

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If you study the job you will see where the steps are broken down. The colors can be done over one another if a midcoat clear was applied and lightly sanded so no tape lines show through. Solid colors rarely show any lines anyway. There's a lot of hours in work there but actually not very complicated. After all the colors are applied then the shadows were airbrushed in.
 

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or Jeff, or Doc, or...
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An EASY way to do checkered flags is to go to a sign shop, and have them do a vinyl mask or a template. Looks like the vinyl you stick on the side of a truck, but its low tack. Tell them what to leave and what to weed. Apply it to the tank, peel the release paper and spray it. Lightly sand the ridges and move to the next graphic.

Some guys want to fine line tape everything. Foose is catching on. He's using more and more vinyl masks in his Overhauling shows. Faster and easier.
 

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oh yes, absolutely. i have a vinyl cutter myself and its the greatest tool there is for masking and doing lettering. only problem is they are only good for generally flat surfaces. you could never use it to cut a mask for graphics and such as in the pic at the beginning of the thread.
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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Have you guy's tried any of this?

Artool Stretch Mask 18in x 25yd.
Stretch Mask is primarily used on non-porous surfaces (motorcycle tanks, helmets, scale models and automotive surfaces) and is especially suited to conform to curved and irregular surfaces.
 

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yes, i have some here. to be honest....its crap. it wont stick to anything. its almost like thick cling wrap and if you do get it to stay down, as soon as you start spraying with an airbrush or gun it just blows up. its useless and i've tried it on just about everything. dont waste your money.
 

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or Jeff, or Doc, or...
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MrClean-
Next time you get the opportunity to do something like that with vinyl, try the following:

Take a large sheet of regular packing paper, similar to the size of the graphic. Wrap it on the tank, and tape it in the center. As it wrinkles up on the areas that are shrunk, the paper will tell you how big of a slice to make. If its big, then make several smaller slices. I cut the top of the tunnels and let if overwrap, then cut the overwrap off. The size of the graphic will dictate how much overwrap needs to be trimmed. Then place the paper on your PREMASKED graphic. Cut the graphic along the template. You should now have a graphic with a LOAD of slices. The tricky part here, is trying to pull part of the release paper off to "Hinge" it on the tank and get it back on. The way I do it , is while the graphic is on the table, throw another low tack release paper over the top. I pull the graphic off half the release paper, make a vertical slice down the paper,and then cut the paper under each "leg" to the center of the graphic. Once the paper is back on, and sliced, remove the low tack tape, leaving your normal release tape. This way I can pull off each section one at a time. Sounds confusing, but it works. I also do it with application fluid, so it will slide a bit. I wet the tape too. Easier to pull off. Once the paper is off, you can adjust the graphic as needed. With a bunch of small slices, the graphic isn't distorted that bad. You shouldn't notice it on a tank that curves.

Jeff
 

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i understand what your talking about. the more efficient i get with the computer programs for designing like flexi or illustrator then the faster and easier it will get, i'm sure, but buy the time i figure out the graphics and get them on the computer, cut out the stencils and get it layed in the tank i could have masked 3 tanks and layed out the graphics on all of them by hand. the big time saver would be if i had to reproduce a design, it would be real easy, all i would have to do is press a button and cut it out but everything i do i try to keep original. if you ever goto my gallery, http://www.xtremekreations.com/gallery.html, you will see what i have to deal with as far as masking curves and odd ball shapes.
 

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thanks!! you can see most of the stuff is sportbikes and dealing with all the curves, vent holes and everything else, its are real pain in the [email protected]#. another thing is none of them are ever the same. they are usually redesigned every 2 years so if i had something all layed out in the computer for one bike, its never going to work on another. harleys have had the same basic style or shape of tank for years and years. a design on one will most of the time work on another. i much rather paint them or cars but what are you going to do right?? gotta pay the bills somehow!!
 

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Fat Freddy

Well you guys are on the right track. But ya left out one old trick.
First ya sniff all your cans of various thinners, then mark them again for contents."Cause the labels have been washed away from years of use,
Then ya spray down a few layers of laytex masking compound,
Then ye close yer eyes and start cutting what yer seein yer head,
Then ya mix up some pretty colors and squirt it at some of the parts ya have to paint,
Then after about ten hours of that you convince the customer, that it is the latest most wickedest trend he will ever be involved in bringin' to the show circut.
Then he pays you and all his buddies come by to pay you to do it again. then ya put on your vapor mask and copy what ya did on the first job.
FAT had enough?
 

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if i'm doing a really involve graphics i will clear coat between layers. if you make a mistake you can fix it without screwing up a days work. finger prints , smudges etc can happen. the extra clear is not going to be that much mill thickness. we did some pretty wild stuff in the 70's on vans and i've seen 3 days work ruined by a gun spitting or somebody sticking their big finger in somebody's work.
 

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I try to use transfer tape. Low tack, easy to write on/erase, but caution needs to be excercised when cutting out the design. Multi colors require a very thin coat of sg100 or as mrclean sez too much film build. When you're relaxed at it and feeling good the clears are not always needed. It all depends on the type of bases used as well. Also, too much of the sg will cause a "tape burn" between your processes. Use it sparingly if at all.

When I do Ghost flames I use sg100 before the pearl goes on to seal the masked off areas and help reduce the "leakage" that can sometimes occur. To me that situation really sucks and the resultant fix will haunt me through the whole freakin job.

To answer the topic ?...with a lot of patitence and a clear vision of where I'm going. :sweat:
 
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