[way_2fast_4u]

If I have a base coat / clear coat and it is the only paint on it do I have to go down to bare? or just take the clear off? or just rough it with 320 grit? Lastly would I lay a sealer first, then a primer, base, and clear? Any clarification on best practices would be appreciated.

 

[TurboS10]

If there is only one paint job on the car, and it is in good condition, you can paint over it. I would say it may not be the best option if you dont know what is under it, but it can be done. If you are going to seal it, 320 will be fine. Just scuff the surface untill all the shine is gone. You want to use the sealer just before the base coat. No primer should be needed unless there is body work to be done.

Chris

 

[way_2fast_4u]

Thanks Chris. I do know exactly what's underneath it since I painted it once already and took it down to bare the first time. I will be using the same system to paint it as before so I didn't think it would be a problem. Thanks again.

 

[augie]

Lets get that to look nice. What I'll usually do if a real expensive car comes thru is wetblock the old clear first with 1000. It knocks down the orange peel that was left from the last paint job/ Then, I like to use a grey scotchbtite pad to scuff with for adhesion. The red is to course and has a tendency when looked at closely to leave fine looking scrathces in the finished product. I will use red only on parts that come new with the black electro coat.
IF you have done body work then reseal the work with paint sealer. If not, no use to reseal and waste money.
hope this helped
Augie

 

[TurboS10]

Why would you sand with 1000. 400-600 is fine enough to not leave scratches in the final finish and will better knock down any high spots. Also seems adhesion would be better. Just curious, doesnt follow what I have learned thus far. I am basically self and book taught though.

Chris

 

[tlambert]

If the paint job is in good shape and there is not mutiple layers of paint you shouldn't have to strip it. I believe that the products that are used will determine the grit of the sandpaper that will be needed to prep the vehicle. If primer is to be applied then maybe 180-400. If the paint job is in good shape then it could be sanded with 600-1000 then sealed, colored and cleared.
When I refinished my truck I sanded the primer with 600, sealed it, colored it, then cleared it. After that I wanted to clear it again so I sanded it with 1000 and recleared it. I have blended color to adjacent panels and sanded them with 1200-1500 or a grey scotch-brite pad and applied adhesion promoter then colored and cleared.
The best advice is to always read the paint manufactors recommendations. That way you know the proper procedures were followed.

 

[Mirror Image]

If the car has no body work I would just wet sand it with 600 grit wet or dry sand paper then depending on color you can use a red stoctbrite if it is a sold color if it is a high metalic color then you need to use a gray stcotbrite then paint over the old paint