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Discussion Starter #1
My car has a 15yr old laquer paint job.Still looks good,but lots of nicks and dings so I'm going to have to have it repainted at some point.It doesn't need any body work it's all straight.I've been told that you can't put any kind of primer or paint over laquer and that I will have to strip the car to bare metal.Is this true?I would like to prepare the car myself a little at a time and possibly paint it myself.I have a compressor and a hvlp gun and have done a few little jobs with it but not a whole car.I used to get cars done with acrylic enamel and they always looked good why doesn't anyone seem to use it anymore?I would appreciate any advice or comments.Oh and is there anything wrong with useing spray-can primer on small sections? I drive my car a lot and go to cruises,but it is not a show car so I don't want to spend a fortune :confused: :confused:
 

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Paintshop Dog
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Alright, easy answers first. Enamel is phasing-out because, it is not as user friendly or as durable as urethane. Enamel metallics can't be color-sanded and buffed. And the minimal UV protection in enamel can't compete with that of urethane clear. Spray can primer is not a good idea, because it shrinks and doesn't stick as well as a "2K" (2 part = primer + hardener). Now, as for your lacquer, some folks say put a good thick coat of epoxy primer over it and go. But, I'd be concerned. Lacquer is brittle and not compatible with other paints. The sure thing is to strip it and start over. Another concern is, the build-up, the thicker the paint the less durable it is. You certainly don't want to fix the dings and chips in your car, then end-up with even more in your new job than it had to start with.
 

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I'm no paint expert but I use black lacquer as a final guide/sand coat and then shoot urethane over the top. I do this because the lacquer is so much harder than normal sanding primers and I can see and sand any imperfections, waves, or flat spots much better in the lacquer than in the primer. Obviously the lacquer is harder to sand...but that is the point. You don't end up creating more imperfections than you started with...which is what I tend to do with softer primers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm wanting to paint the car flat or semi-gloss black (I like the retro black primer look) Do u think I could just sand my car and then spray it with flat black laquer? I want the (old school) look without too much work or money.What would u suggest?
Thanks
Gary
 

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Lost in the 50s!
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I can't speak for your vehicle since the paint is a lot newer than mine, but I am going to strip mine completely before anything goes on it.

It is 50 year old laquer in most places, 4 colors of primer (black, gray, and two reds), 2 other unknown paints (probably rattle can) and who knows what sort of filler in places.

I can't imagine any paint sticking to all that mess or lasting very long.

It needs to be done correctly or I am just wasting time and cash. :nono:
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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320 it and a couple coats of SPI Black Epoxy.
Use a flat clear if you want it to last.
Nice semiflat and probbly last longer than regular flat or semi black.
Yeah I know but it's an option. Hehehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm kinda new to this,what is SPI black epoxy,Is SPI a brand ?Is that a flat paint before using flat clear?
Thanks Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is spi a brand of paint products or what?I can't find anyone around here that knows anything except ppg and house of kolor :confused:
 

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You've never said what kind of car you have, not that it matters I'm just curious??? The SPI black epoxy is an excellent primer but is not intended to be a topcoat. It has no UV protection and will chalk up with exposure to sunlight. That was the reason for the flat clear recommendation.
The cheapest paint job would be to sand your existing paint with 320/400 grit sandpaper and spray on 3 or 4 coats of flat black lacquer. This would be cheap and would not make it too difficult to repaint in a few years if you get tired of the flat black, it would also be fairly easy to touch up.
This will not be the most durable paint job but if the car sees limited use it could last for quite a while, the original lacquer job has lasted 15 years after all!
If you want a more durable flat black there is a comapny that makes a base-clearcoat flat black system. I can't remember the name but they used the paint on Trucks! for their F100 project. You can probably find some information on their website. If you decide to go with the base/clear system then I would recommend stripping off the old lacquer, if you want the best possible job that's the way to go. Otherwise just shoot some lacquer or single stage enamel over the existing paint, if you go with enamel then I would get a non-sanding sealer to go between the new enamel and the old lacquer. It's how we did it 30 years ago so there's no reason it won't work today as well as it did then!
 

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There are cars out there that have gone 3-4 years with no big issues with SPI black epoxy primer as the only coat on them..The reason for recommending stripping is that some of these older cars can have several layers of paint laid on and tho they look ok now another coat of paint can cause some big issues down the road..My self I would wish to sand off some of the spots that may be suspect and see just what is there before making any reccomendation as to what to do..

Sam
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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SWEET!!!.
This is what you get with SPI's black epoxy.



It's basically like Chryslers semi flat and it's tough as nails.
I don't really know "how" long it will go before chalking but I'm sure BarryK can answer you on that.
You can go to their forum for more info.

SPI

Nice ride. :thumbup:
 
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