I would use a sealer product on those places first. Otherwise they may shrink and show up six months from now.
painting over glazing putty
Hello all. I planning on painting my truck cab in the morning. I have two spots the size of a nickle where i have some glazing putty showing thru. Will it be safe to just paint over that. A quick reply.
would be great. Iam using nasons ss urethane. Thanks saml
would be great. Iam using nasons ss urethane. Thanks saml
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when they say you can paint over it they mean you have to seal over it then paint it. I've seen it done on very tiny areas about as thick as a nickel with no sealer and no problems but I wouldn't suggest it and it may affect your clear. Not sure what it does but it would appear it soaks up your clear and dulls out the gloss. That I've seen before and it's not pretty.
Thanks guys for the replies. I guess i will hit those places with some primer first thing in the morning. Nasons primer tech sheet said no sealer was needed before topcoating. So i will just primer again. Thanks again
Prime the small filler spots showing through
Just lightly sand those little primer spots before painting and your good to go
Just lightly sand those little primer spots before painting and your good to go
My experience with a Nitrostan, an old standby, red putty/glazing compound without a seal coat is not good. It can and will raise, especially at the feathered edges as it is an old lacquer type product. If you are talking about a two part polyester putty like USC's Icing, for one you should have no problem. Here's the Evercoat, another brands list - http://www.evercoat.com/productcategory.aspx?cat=1 with the last one listed as a suspect lacquer based version
It said no sealer was needed because it's under the assumption that you're topcoating over the primer, not glazing putty. When you're applying anything over a filler it's a different story.samkin said:Thanks guys for the replies. I guess i will hit those places with some primer first thing in the morning. Nasons primer tech sheet said no sealer was needed before topcoating. So i will just primer again. Thanks again
You've raised a good point there IC,nobody has used that old nitro stain putty for soooo long that when you talk to any pro about putty we will automaticly think TWO PART PUTTY that needs a hardener....we really need to pay attention when anyone asks about putty That Nitro stain and pretty much ALL lacquer type products have absolutely no place in todays bodyshop...The only 1 part putty that was ever any good at all was an alcohol based putty from sikins called combi putty and on its best day was only half as good as any two part putty.But ALL of them need some primer over them other wise the bare putty or bondo spots will suck up the paint leaving a very noticable spot later on ...And you'll see everyone of them when your done....Irelands child said:My experience with a Nitrostan, an old standby, red putty/glazing compound without a seal coat is not good. It can and will raise, especially at the feathered edges as it is an old lacquer type product. If you are talking about a two part polyester putty like USC's Icing, for one you should have no problem. Here's the Evercoat, another brands list - http://www.evercoat.com/productcategory.aspx?cat=1 with the last one listed as a suspect lacquer based version
I think I still have a partial tube of that Nitro-stan. Auto Body in Sch'dy still had some a couple years ago 
ain:
ain:When used correctly they were pretty good back then,The problems started when the primers started going on way to thick to try to cover all the rushed or poor body work, then when that wasn't enough out came the glazing putty and start slathering that on there,I've seen that a 1/4" thick....but when used correctly lacquer primer worked fine so did the glazing putty ,nitro stain being the most popular. Lets face it ,if the scratches are any rougher than 180 you'll have problems later especially these days you cant get any GOOD lacquer its all wash thinner..and if you had to do any filling to get your body work straight, your screwedYour body work HAD to be right and GOOD bodymen were in great demand. Everything is a lot easier today..and Good bodymen that can get the panel right without fill primers are few and far between...we sanded and blocked bondo up to 320 before priming back then now its not un common for any one to prime after 80...Thats something you could NEVER do back then
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