[Eddie N]

I'm probably about a week away from starting my painting project, but i have seen conflicting information on various parts of the web as well as coming from my local auto paint supply store..

I was told at the paint store to only primer the areas where i performed body work, and then seal the entire car, then apply my color coat and then my clear...

he said i would be safe just sealing the factory paint and then shooting the color.. does that make sense? the car is a 93 with factory paint..

i thought the process was body work, prime the entire car, sealer, color, then clear?

the steps i was going to perform were:

1. complete body work and dry sand smooth with 100 grit sand paper.

2. apply primer to entire car and wet sand smooth with 400 grit sandpaper. (how many coats of primer should i apply?)

3. apply sealer over primer (how many coats? do i wet sand here?)

4. apply color coats (3).

5. apply clear coats (3).

6. wet sand with 2000 grit sandpaper.

7. buff entire car.

thats my plan in a nutshell.. any suggestions?

also, i was planning on purchasing a gallon of primer, sealer, color, and clear for my project.. will this be enough for a pretty decent sized car?

thank you all for your patience,

Eddie

[ May 12, 2003: Message edited by: Eddie N ]</p>

 

[Dragon J]

Hey Eddie- you've planned it well- I'd use more primer, but priming the whole thing is a good idea, although they were correct in telling you if the paint is good, you don't have to prime it all- just the areas you worked. If you are sealing it the color will be the same. (The color could look different if you didn't get it all primed a single color.) Depending on sealers, you have to sand or not- read tech sheets to find out. I like to lay the primer on thick and wet sand the snot ot of it to get it really smooth. I like to shoot a light 'tack' coat, then a good thick one- then touch up as needed- usually two coats of clear is enough. As to quantity- If you're using HVLP you'll have way enough- if standard gun you should still be okay if you don't do under hood, trunk, jambs, etc. Good luck- take your time and wear a respirator!

[ May 13, 2003: Message edited by: Dragon J ]</p>

 

[Eddie N]

dragon,

thanks for the advice.. one more question.. if i prime the entire car, do i still need to seal it?

thanks,

Eddie

 

[Dragon J]

Your welcome, Eddie- No you really do not have to seal if the entire car is primed. But I would IF you have a lot of bodywork and the primer doesn't seem too thick after the wet sand. Sealing basically does just that- seal the bodywork, welds, bondo, old paint, etc. from your color coat. If you have differences: like old paint and primer showing, the color could be inconsistent. If all is properly primed you'll be set to go! Good Luck!!

 

[troy-curt]

Primer is only a filler. ALL GOOD PAINT JOBS SHOULD BE SEALED With a actavated urathain sealer,perferably with color added.
when paint is applied the thinner must evaperate up out of the paint, primmer is soft and pulls the thinner down into the primer and filler, the paint drys on the surface and the thinner is traped underneath. It will then come up through the paint and make little bumps and bubbles.
The more thinner that evaperates out through the paint during the drying process, the shinner the paint will be.
I hope this helps as it is a complacated process
Good Luck

 

[Dragon J]

As you can see Eddie, opinions are like bellybuttons- everybody has one! I guess that makes a for a fun world that is different! My sources say ( and history has been) that primer primes the surface for paint. It helps promote adhesion. Sealer seals the substrate. Yes, a sealed job will last longer. If you paint following correct flash and dry times you will NOT have a problem. Every time I have seen pinholing from evaporation it was due to improper dry time. This again is MY opinion, not the reason in every case. Weigh your options and billfold and make decisions from the manufacturer's tech sheets. This was not stated to offend anyone- just trying to help... Good Luck Eddie!

 

[troy-curt]

Dragon is right,Every one has there own way of doing things. And you should do it however it works best for you.
However I knew a gal that didn`t have a bellybutton,lol

 

[Eddie N]

thanks for all the expertise! my game plan is about %90 solidified at this point..

but, i was reading through halloweenkings turtotial on prep work, and i noticed that he recomends sealing before priming.. i'm assuming there is no right or wrong way to do this, and that everybody has their own style and ways of doing things.. is this a safe assumption? or does it depend on what brand of paint you are using?

thank you both for the positive encouragement..

Eddie

 

[Dragon J]

(again my opinion only!) If you want it super smooth and to last a long time and money doesn't realy come into the issue- YES by all means seal it. If you are on a tight budget and it's just a daily driver, you really don't NEED to if it is primed well. Price your materials and do it the best you can afford. Take your time and post when you're done as we'd love to see it!! and p.s.- different paint manufacturers will recommend a sealer- it depends on the company/quality/cost. I would recommend a basecoat/clearcoat system as I think you would have good success with it. enjoy!

[ May 14, 2003: Message edited by: Dragon J ]</p>

 

[adtkart]

Like has been said already, everyone has their own opinion. I would follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They know their product better than anyone.

 

[Eddie N]

excellent!!

at this point i plan on priming the entire car, and if the cost of sealing it isnt too bad i'll go for that too.. the only thing that worries be about it is that its just another potential thing for me to possibly screw up...

one last question, again .. can i use regular body filler on polyurethane parts like bumpers?

thanks again,

Eddie

 

[troy-curt]

It takes a flexable two part filler.
Should be able to get it at any auto paint supply.

If you screw up your sealer, just sand it smooth.

 

[ProphecyXI]

Yes Primer on bondo chips ect. Sealer u should spray over the whole car including the other primer. make sure to scuff the old paint before the filler primer and the sealer primer.

[ May 15, 2003: Message edited by: ProphecyXI ]</p>

 

[jakesbackyard]

Here's my bellybutton's two cents worth!

There are basically three types of undercoats:

Primer - nonsanding - etching or epoxy are popular - designed to promote adhesion, and corrosion protection. If left more than 24 hrs. without topcoating - must be scuffed.

Primer surfacer(filler) - must be sanded - will do the same two things as primer but not as well, and will additionally fill minor imperfections. If using 2K urethane products - do not technically need a sealer applied over the top of them.

Sealer - NON Sanding - unless left more than 24 hrs without topcoating. Does the same two things as primer as well as provides a uniform color for easier topcoating. Can usually be tinted for easier hiding. Sealer is usually applied in the booth as basically your first coat in the final color/topcoat process.

Most paint companies have the tech sheets for their products on the net now. If using PPG products, check their website. The tech sheets for every product in every line PPG offers is on their site. Excellant information.

 

[Mirror Image]

If it where me I would do all the body work and prime with a good 2 part primer then block sand with 220 grit paper then 320 dry sand the primed area fill all the rock chips with evercoat polyester puttie then wet sand the car with 1000 grit paper and stochbrite around the edges then you are ready to seal and paint

 

[Eddie N]

i'm confused again! ha! i'll get it eventually... once i buy my gun i'm going to go back and harass the guys and the paint supplier a little more.. they love it when i pick their brains for a few hours at a time!! just kidding.. i'll buy some cheap paint and practice on my beater..

thanks,

Eddie