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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me the basics on painting
base coat clear coat. Have done some painting in
the past,enamel and laquer. Just need to know the
basic steps and materials I need. Want to do the
hood on my old truck for practice. Appreciate
any info on this subject.
 

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The most important thing to remember is to get all of your materials from the same manufacturer so it all will be compatible. Base coat clear coat is good paint but is not compatible with acrylic enamel. if the car has been painted with enamle you will have to remove it or you may be able to use a sealing primer over it. Check with your paint suplier and they will be able to make good recomendations.
 

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One thing I learned the hard way, leave plenty of time between coats. I just painted my 57chevy about two months ago and now I have thousands of tiny blisters. They first showed up after about a month. The paint rep says this is a common problem if you dont have a paint booth and have sufficient air movement.
 

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Talk to Len at <a href="http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index" target="_blank">http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index</a>

He's an expert, sells quality equipment, and can answer any questions you may have.

[ February 07, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
 

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try members.tripod.com ; this is a very good site for no nonsense infor. Bob Storys auto paint faq. sand and sand some more then clean and clean and then clean again. snakejake
 

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I would guess that your hood has been pretty well sandblasted already so I would guess that you will want to take it down to bare metal first and do any cosmetic filling that it may need. Stay within a paint system (start with PPG and finnish with PPG or whichever company you select). Start with a coat of non-sanding catalytic sealer and sand with 320grit wet. This will assure a good grip and seal out any compatability problems. Then spray on sanding primer, a couple of coats and fog this with a contrasting guide coat (from a rattlecan). Block sand with 320 until you get a good flat finish (sand dry).If the guide coat tells you that you need to do body work, do it now, do not try to fill deep depressions with primer, it is too expensive to use that way. When you have a surface ready to paint, wipe with a pre-painting solvent and wipe dry with a tack rag. You are ready to apply the base coat. It will go on in 2 or 3 very light coats. It dries flat, so don't try to get it to gloss. It is important no to let this dry too long because the clear coat will not bond. The paint manufacturer's product spec. sheets will tell you what the intercoat period is. Then apply the clear coat. Get a good 3 to 5 coats on. You will find this very easy to get a good gloss. This can be the end of the painting unless you want to color sand it with water and 1000 grade paper and buff it to a lustre with a lamb's wool cover and polishing compound. The two part paints are easier to use than in the past, but be very careful to use a respirator and get plenty of ventilation. I frequently paint outside for just this reason. You will find that the cost of paint has gone up a HELL of a lot because of the restrictive regulations on paint sellers.
 

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all this is good advice, blisters in paint can occur from dirty surfaces, primer that isn't cured well enough. prep work is 90 0/0 of a good paint job, don't rush to get the job done, ask your local paint store for advice, it's easier to do the job right the first time than to do it over again. the base coat clear coat is a breeze to apply, follow the directions on the can, these guys (engineers) developed the product, they know the best ways to apply.
 

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Make sure of your ventilation. The clear coat activator has an isocyanide componet the can cause respiratory problems with exposure. It is also a known to cause cancer. I bit the bullet and bought a fresh air supplied mask.
 
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