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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know how to get around passing emissions with race car? If it were my Charger I wouldn't have to worry about it but with Cobra I can't get collectors plates yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
here's build
306 mexican shortblock with forged rods and pistons (9to1), moly rings, steel main girdle all ARP hardware, fluidampner, double roller t-chain with TFS stage 2 cam, moroso 1 piece pushrods, TFS 1.7 roller rockers, TFS R heads box stock, TFS R intake box stock, TFS phenolic spacer, TFS 75mm t-body elbow, bbk 75mm t-body, zex nos 75mm plate dual shark nozzles, bullet 75mm blowthrough mass air with 42ib injectors, 255 in tank with a 255 frame mounted fuel pumps aeromotive regulator, procharger D1 with 3.5 inch pulley and 3 core intercooler, k&n big conical, hooker super comp TFS R headers, 3 inch exhaust with cats, x-pipe and dynomax bullet mufflers. msd 6btm box, msd super conducter wires and coil, 3.55 gears auburn posi, subframe connectors, saleen springs, steeda caster/camber plates, koni shocks.

and of course some pics
 

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mitmaks said:
here's build
306 mexican shortblock with forged rods and pistons (9to1), moly rings, steel main girdle all ARP hardware, fluidampner, double roller t-chain with TFS stage 2 cam, moroso 1 piece pushrods, TFS 1.7 roller rockers, TFS R heads box stock, TFS R intake box stock, TFS phenolic spacer, TFS 75mm t-body elbow, bbk 75mm t-body, zex nos 75mm plate dual shark nozzles, bullet 75mm blowthrough mass air with 42ib injectors, 255 in tank with a 255 frame mounted fuel pumps aeromotive regulator, procharger D1 with 3.5 inch pulley and 3 core intercooler, k&n big conical, hooker super comp TFS R headers, 3 inch exhaust with cats, x-pipe and dynomax bullet mufflers. msd 6btm box, msd super conducter wires and coil, 3.55 gears auburn posi, subframe connectors, saleen springs, steeda caster/camber plates, koni shocks.

and of course some pics
Your chances of getting that to pass emissions is somewhere between zero and none. A lot of guys in California just stick an emissions legal engine in to get through the check and then just swap it out for their "real engine" after they pass. That might be your only option.
 

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turbo lag......yeeeeehaaaaaaw
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Seriosly, If you want it too pass I would pay someone. Around here its 230 with no second car and 180 with a car that is the same body style as yours. You may be able to get away with it if you can pass out the tail pipe. Some guys only care about that and look away when they pop the hood. Im surprised you still have a cat though. You got all that money and cats are holding it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1969NovaSS said:
Seriosly, If you want it too pass I would pay someone. Around here its 230 with no second car and 180 with a car that is the same body style as yours. You may be able to get away with it if you can pass out the tail pipe. Some guys only care about that and look away when they pop the hood. Im surprised you still have a cat though. You got all that money and cats are holding it back.

cats are gutted :) It sounds amazing
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Anymore, There is no "Getting Around" smog laws , in any state that has them..

I see guy's here that post about building an engine up that is still within the smog window , or saying "How great a deal" they got on a non smogger..I always ask "what do you plan for smog if you plan on street use?" and the typical answer is: "No sweat..I CAN get around those EASY"

Six months to a year later..(when the tag runs out..) I see the same guy posting "HELP! Can't Pass Emissions!"...NOW he has a very expensive repair..OR , a 1500 pound yard gnome..

You first need to find out what Federal Standards are for your year Vehicle, minimum , and any other requirements for the state..and you must meet those requirements.

IF you have a Visual inspection, you MUST have ALL required smog parts IN place, and all the hose routing properly connected, as well as any sender/sensors and computer pickoffs..AND it must all work! If you get a check engine lamp at any time your a fail..the test computer will abort the run.

The timing must be set Exact with the standards set on the hood sticker or spec's for the car..not just "Close enough" that will buy you a failure also..

The curb idle must meet spec..+ / - 50 RPMS..(No Lopey cams!) If it goes from 600 to 700 every reveolution..The test computer will automatically abort the test..

After you get through that you must pass the "sniffer test..", it must meet the standards set forth by the Feds and state regulations..

Good luck on finding anyone to "Pay" to pass it..the fines are too steep now, ( Smallest I seen lately, is $10,000 AND 5 years in Jail,plus license revocation.) and they DO prosecute every case..PLUS trying to "beat " the test is pretty hard to do and get away with it in most states.

The states survey each area biased on the average PASS/FAIL numbers to head off fraud..both cheating the system and cheating the customer with "extra repairs" not needed..and can walk in to the shop at any time..

My suggestion to you is get whatever is needed to bring it back to Fed Standard, and make it play..

I speak from experience here, Had a restored Vette , here in California, that was a gross polluter took 13 trips to the state referee, and $6700 to make it pass! (Cali is rough on Smog) and withheld the tags until passing..AND , here at least, If you get caught on the road with it out of reg, it's an automatic 30 day impound..at like $100 a day and tow fees..and you still have to get it smogged!

Just my nickel's worth..

Doc :pimp:
 

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Flamethrower
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I am one of the people that thinks "There is a way around everything". First off, drive a vehicle just old enough that there is no computer, G-body or some of the earlier fox body mustangs. Then if you have to have the equipment make it look like it is going to work even if it doesn't, how can you prove it works without taking it apart. Take apart an air pump and hollow out or use high flow cats and so on. EGRs can work the same way,but be blocked off as with charcoal canisters. I have seen some 1.3 ratio rockers labeled "break-in" rockers that could help tame a nasty cam. I never leave the orignal emissions sticker on my performance car, they always "fall off", even though most do fall off. It's all in how serious you are and where you live. I personally will never live in California for the emissions reasons, I realize that the laws change, but they will never be as bad as Cali.
 

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aka Duke of URL
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I agree with Doc...

Trying to circumvent the EPA (spelled FEDS) is a losing proposition. Just because a certain model is exempt from testing does not mean it is legal to remove the emission equipment. To think you can have it mounted and be inoperable is another misnomer as the testing station will have Mitchels On Demand at the least and chances are you will be caught.

How about the kid that posted about a month ago that he had put a thumper 350 into an early Grand Prix and he had just failed the sniff test? Do you know how much he is going to have to spend to make it legal? And MA gives you sixty days to comply or they pull tags.

The truth of the matter is that a properly smogged engine runs cleaner and better except if it is a dedicated race car. You spend more time and money trying to circumvent the law rather than complying.
 

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Do they make you put the Smog equipment on for the year of the car or the motor?
I ask because I have a Fiero with a 70s sbc installed, my computer is just a big wire connector.
They dont test here in Florida "yet" I think eventually they will test everywhere.
 

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Jake_Dragon said:
Do they make you put the Smog equipment on for the year of the car or the motor?
Below Are The Guidelines Ford The State of Maryland.

States make their own regulations but have to be within EPA Federal Law (Regulations).

ENGINE CHANGE GUIDELINES

MARYLAND VIEP


Publication No. EP-14 (12/98)


CERTIFICATION STANDARDS- Make sure the engine and emission control configure on exhaust-controlled vehicles are certified to the year of vehicle or newer, and to the same or a more stringent new vehicle certification standard.

EMISSION WARANTY- Voiding the vehicle manufacturer’s emission warranty is not allowed.

EMISSION CONTROL CONFIGURATION- Mixing and matching emission control systems components could cause problems and is generally not allowed. Engine and emission control systems must be in a chassis configuration certified by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The engine must meet or exceed the requirements for the year and class of the vehicle in which it is installed.

ORIGIONAL EQUIPMENT- The installed engine and host chassis must retain all of their original emission control equipment. Diesel-to-gasoline conversions must have all gasoline engine and chassis emission control systems installed (such as fill pipe restrictor, catalytic converter and evaporative emission system).

CLASSIFICATION- Don’t mix engine and vehicle classifications which will degrade the emissions certification standards. For example, a heavy-duty engine cannot be installed in a light-duty exhaust controlled chassis even if they have the same displacement. Non-emission controlled power plants such as industrial or off-road use only engines may not be placed in any exhaust-controlled vehicle.

ENGINE MODIFICATIONS- No internal or external engine modification (cams, pistons, intakes, etc.) may be performed unless the parts are EPA certified for use in the installed engine.

COMPUTER CONTROLS- If a computer controlled engine is installed in a non-computerized vehicle, the “CHECK ENGINE” light, the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) diagnostic link, and all sensors, switches, and wiring harnesses needed to make the system fully functional must also be installed.

The installation of the new engine must allow the testing of the ignition timing and the EGR system. Make sure the host vehicle’s transmission is compatible with the new engine and computer system.

EMISSIONS INSPECTION- These vehicles must pass a complete emissions inspection.
This pertains mainly to engine upgrades (swaps) within one manufacturer, i.e. say a late 350 into a 80's CAMARO. It gets even hairier within interspecies swaps. I have heard of inspectors even checking Casting I.D. Nos. to verify compliance (years of engine componets).

You need to check with your State of Residence VEIP as to what is and is not allowed. SEMA may have interpretations of the regulations as it seems inspectors can use their own interpretation of the law.

Case In Point-

Guy has a 79 LINC VERSAILLES with EEC-I. CPS goes out and is not replaced by FORD. Cannot disable the ignition type in any way (part of calibration). Is OK to upgrade the complete system to EEC-IV (later system). But get this, had the car been modified (illegally- say DURASPARK II freestanding) to run and it still did not pass sniff test, you still have to spend (and show) $400.00 for a waiver. In many states this waiver is only good for the period of the test, say two years. The next go around, they will require the car to be repaired according to its' ENGINE CALIBRATION.

It seems whomever wrote the law did not take into consideration what one does if the replacement parts are no longer available.
 

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Most of the guys in Ca. that I know that are serious about having a late model modified car have a spare setup or one to borrow for emissions checks. Worse than that tho, get caught at a questionable site where they may be illegally racing, they pop the hood and you're illegal, impound and fine time. Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok, this is not California (thank God) second in WA if you do not pass you have to spend $100 towards repairs, if it still doesnt pass, they give you waiver.
 

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mitmaks said:
Anyone know how to get around passing emissions with race car? If it were my Charger I wouldn't have to worry about it but with Cobra I can't get collectors plates yet.
That's going to be tough to do in WA.

Under current law its illegal to change,alter,remove the emissions controls systems on a car that came with them from the factory.

Here is the link to WA DOL site

CHAPTER 173-422 WAC Motor Vehicle Emission Inspection

You cannot get a waiver for this modification to the car!

There isn't really an exception that you could legally use for this car. The only one even close would be the transfer of registration to an immediate family member...but who would be dumb enough to be an accomplice to fraud and potentially legally liable in case of an accident - is it really worth it?

Here's the only legal?? way I could see that you can do it...and
I'm no expert...my take is if you put another engine in a car that is newer than 5 years old (inspection doesn't kick in until then) or of course over 25 years old.

In Washington State you can replace an engine in a newer car that does have to be tested but "the new motor HAS to be an EPA certified engine/emission control combination for that vehicle or its newer model."

I can't see swapping motors out would help you here.

Just make the darn thing into a full out race car...or dial it back to the original stuff so you can legally pass.
 

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mitmaks said:
so what are you saying, that race cars are illegal? lol :spank:
Nope - just the year/engine/emissions combo you got going!

I understand the desire to have the newer car with the cool engine and be on the street with it.

Let's face it - If you want a custom, fast, newer car, you're fairly limited to having additional machine work done and bolt on parts (chips, turbos, etc.) that keep you within the emissions framework.

The policticians and greeners have succeeded and have made it not worth it too me to stay with newer cars...

Now I stick with projects older than 25 years (like your Charger) and I don't waste time, money, effort trying to "beat the system" 1 year at a time when it could be spent making something old really cool!

Good Luck - Hope I don't read about you in the Seattle PI trying to cheat the system!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well theres ways to get around it, if I could find someone who is willing to register car under their name (so its out of city limits)
then maybe trying to register it as collectible car (Cobras get certificate of authenticity)
 

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Holly cow I am shocked.See,I was living in the States back in '99 when the new IM 240 inspection law came in.And I was in the first group of technicians trained specifically to be a NJ/NY certified inspector.I passed a tough test after 8 months of night classes.We were told that our driver's licenses could be taken away in case we got caught cheating. Now if I understand well,during the dyno pull the cars have the ODB2 plug wired to the inspection equipment?
 
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