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cap'n crunch
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Im going to be piping in my airlines soon at my shop.I think Im going to do it like the airlines on the boat.it's all galvanized pipe with fittings and unions any ideas or diagrams would be helpful. Im thinking of using 3/4 pipe any info would be helpful thanks. Randy :welcome:
 

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I have seen many do it with galvanized pipe. Are gas fitter at the shop I work for has done a few. The one thing I will recommend is to use American pipe and fittings.
 

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Here some more.

Galvanized pipe according to tp tools is not a good idea, should stay with the black pipe.

They tell about it on there tips/technical section.

http://www.tptools.com/ < Go here first

Then click on tips/technical

Then click on air line hookup- metal piping diagram

Then click on minimize moisture in your air lines with metal piping

This company has been in the business for a long time

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html
 

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I just finished a airline job on my shop. Small shop, but between tp tools, Lowes, and info from this site, I got her done. (used half inch black pipe)
 

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Good for you, any pictures, if its a really good job, we could use your picture as a model for it, but then you're taking a chance that we might find something wrong and start picking it apart. :)

Rob
 

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I know , "my galvanized pipe has never caused any problem", but the possibility of flaking inside the pipe is real and is a problem. Use black pipe. Bigger is better cause it cools better. Keep your flow uphill from the compressor after the initial riser. Have a drain at the low spot and at all connectors with at least a 12 inch trap
 

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As long as it works, thats all that counts. If a guy stays on the practical end of it, theres a lot less stuff to go wrong.

Rob
 

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Hello all I'm new to this site and first i have to say I love it. I have learned so much from it and I'm glad there are places like this to go for info. My question is I live in MI and well the weather here is not that great, and with the moisture you would get in Black pipe will make it rust bad inside and that could flak off as well and clog things. Just a thought but I think I'll use it because it is cheap and there are all kind of different connectors and fittings.

Jim
 

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I am just about finished with mine. I used 1/2" black pipe (TPTools recommendation). When I have it up and running I'll post a good description and costs. Anyhow, here's a photo of the way i did each drop.
jor
 

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Nice job on the drop, just a suggestion here, as long as you're still working on it.

If you can put a downward slope on your lines, that will keep any standing water from laying in there.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html
 

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If you can put a downward slope on your lines, that will keep any standing water from laying in there.
Yours and others' posts convinced me early on that that was the way to go. I do have a slope throughout. I incorporated at least 1" for every 10 feet or so. The photo is deceiving. I really overdid everything but had a good time putting it all together. Thanks.
jor
 

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Sounds good, give us some pictures, from start to end, including the compressor, if its a nice as I think it is, we'll use it as a model for others to look at.

But then you're leaving yourself open for the skeptics, go for it, We won't pick it apart. Just kidding. :)

Were all one happy family here :spank:

Seriously here, postings with pictures like you have is what makes these forums so informational, good job.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html
 

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we'll use it as a model for others to look at.
Ha ha... now, that's funny! Yea, I'll put together a bunch of photos and a list of purchases and post it all in a week or two. I just have a few more things to do. I'll be running a cabinet blaster, air tools and maybe a paint gun later on. Just screwin' around. Thanks for your comment.
jor
 

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Mine almost turned out like the one on the bottom page of http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

I followed the Sharpe diagrams going away from the tank and the chart like the one on TP tools.

My bare bones small bang for the buck 15 amp US General 60 gallon. Around 12 cfm at 90 psi. Next place I'll have the tank sheltered somewhere quiet. And hopefully a quality 2 stage to replace it with someday.

I used a $20 Northern Tool hydraulic hose for the 3/4" 3 ft flex hose to the wall, then a 3/4" shut off valve at the end instead of on the tank because less fittings could to use that way. Then to 3/4" L copper in 10 ft sticks, some already with a slight curve, and used the curve when going away from the tank at an angle. I believe I got it to go down 8"-10" every 18 ft with the flexible copper. Positioned the pipes first, then sweated them.

Also made an EZ drain with a 1/4 ball valve.





Drop 1. Misc/Engine bay drop with short hose, no filter. Was bored and used a craftsman reg with the extra stuff I had laying around after the other drops were already done.



Drop 2. Prep drop. HF 40 micron air filter reg. 40 ft away from tank. I put a few oil drops in the air tools just before each time in use. Also a backup for the paint drop I suppose.



Drop 3. Paint/minor sandblasting drop. 65 feet away from tank, Sharpe F88 5 micron filter. Used some 1/2" copper up and around to the 25 ft retractable hose after the reg. And got rid of all those small fittings on the regs to prevent possible air flow restriction.


I did a spray gun test with an Air Gunsa AZ3 hte hvlp. 13.8 cfm at 30 psi inlet. Set gun at full fan and fluid control with 35 psi at the gun reg for a full 2 minutes and it kept up. Pressure also at the tank didn't go up or down. Motor stayed on constantly with trigger fully pulled. Just barely enough.
 

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Really nice job on the copper, Danny. I was going to go copper but it was too expensive compared to black iron. I think your decision to go with 3/4" was the right one too. I struggled with that but ended up with 1/2"
jor
 

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Danny, i just looked your set up over really good for the second time. I would be proud to tell anybody I had a setup like that, very nice.

Rob
 

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Thanks so much Jor & Rob :) Right when I joined here, I started to like how you folks take it pretty serious with these air shops. Then I began to get allot more into it and feel really lucky sometimes I found this place.

This whole air shop thing is as rewarding as my first engine swap I did, took me about about a year to do when the fund$ allowed me to keep going, even though it feels like I'm still stuck sometimes.lol Its already paid for itself from the plumbing around the house it has taught me.

Started off getting the copper a few sticks at a time on a low "whenever I had a few bucks to spare" budget, but it was around $12 for a 10 ft L-type stick. Now its more then doubled in price over here. I'd definitely look for something else now, like galvanized or black iron.
 
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