All the above posts are correct. I will add to them as I did before, but got shut out for some reason or another. Here we go.
My first and most important message to relay is to do your project “a panel at a time” The reason for this is you will end up with a much better job and you also will not get tired of it and settle for second place. Always remember SECOND PLACE is the FIRST LOSER. Back to the car. Start by getting some REAL GOOD CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES & SAFETY EYEWEAR of some kind. You sure don’t want to have EYE PROBLEMS when your finished. Next get the roughest Scoth-Brite (red) and either Comet, Bonami or Ajax and scrub with it and water until you end up with a surface that the water does not bead up ANYWHERE. At this time, you can pick out any rust scales that might be present and proceed. The nooks and crannys are the most important if you want all your hard work to show up in the end result. This is referred to as a “waterbreak free” surface in the aircraft industry. This process is used on all aircraft from the small crop duster to the space shuttle. Once you are at this step, grab a new or “soap free” piece of Scotch-Brite and scrub with clean water from the water hose if possible. If not possible, be sure to have A LOT of water jugs on hand. Remember the water break free surface, this is the MOST important step in your project! It insures anything that is on top of it will adhere to it and anything added on top of that will adhere also. Do not let this air dry, I have found that CLEAN shop air is the fastest,easiest and best. Make sure it is CLEAN! By this, I mean, If you blow dry it with an air compressor that does not have a drier or moisture trap on it, you will just be blowing compressor oil on the surface and nothing sticks to oil.
The next steps will be referencing Dupont products as that is what comes to mind. I know I will hear some rebuttals on this, but “chemicals are chemicals” I am aware of some seeming they are watered down and quite possibly so. It is not my intention to endorse one or the other. Once you have arrived at a dry, clean surface, get some phosphoric acid. (some trade names as follows: Ospho, Metal-Conditioner (Dupont), Metal-Prep(PPG). There are a lot of others, just make sure the label states “PHOSPHORIC ACID”. Follow the instructions to the letter on the dilution and while your at it PUT ON THE SAFETY EYEWEAR I have already mentioned. Start scrubbing with the solution following the instructions on the label. Do not let this solution air dry nor dry it with compressed air. Once you are at this step, you can go get some Vari-Prime(Dupont) and spray this on as per the label. Don’t figure “more” is better, it is not. And if you disregard this, you will be real sorry and your billfold will be thinner and also you will have to go buy more Scotch-Brite,etc and start all over again! This is a two part catalyzed primer and is most definitely dangerous to your health. WEAR A RESPIRATOR that is compliant for the chemicals being used. Once you are at this point, you can start doing the required body work as in filling small imperfections, rust pits, bondoing very small dents and so on, at your leisure. ONE panel at a time. Can you imagine trying all this on an entire vehicle? You would either have a bunch of money tied up in a project that is not good or you would have a number 2 job. Always remember: Second Place is the FIRST LOSER. I hope I have not bored anyone with such a long answer to a “seemingly” simple answer. There is a lot more to the Autobody business than a lot of people believe. If there is any typo's it is because I did not want to take the chance and get shut down again. Anyone can reach me at
[email protected]
Johnny
