The look you want is done with semi gloss clear.It is used on import bumpers,PPG makes the best one I used. You can put flating agent in regular clear and get the same effect ,but it will turn chaulky with long term exposer to the sun
Your post reminded me of the time years ago when my girlfriend and sister borowed my 67" GTO while I was working. I had replaced the left fender and hood which was in primer. When they came that night to pick me up the car shined like you could not belive. They washed and waxed it. She told me it sure was hard to make that hood shine but they got it. It shined for quite some time too.
I think the look your looking for is accomplished by sanding the primer. I just finished my 34' coupe. After the primer sealer, we used three coats of Dupont primer, let it dry overnight and sanded it with 400 dry paper. After we were finished, the car looked great. It has a semi-gloss finish, like it was polished. I coould have left it like that. Be sure you use a flat rubber pad as a block. they are 3" x 4" about 1/8" thick. This will keep your surface flat. Hope that works for you.
SANDING IS THE WAY TO GO BUT--- WET SAND WITH 600 WET OR DRY WITH RUBBER PAD.AND USE A LITTLE DISHWASHING SOAP IN THE WATER,JUST A FEW DROPS THE PAPER WILL LAST LONGER AND YOU WILL GET A SPIT SHINE ON THAT PRIMER
NEVER STAY IN A STRAIGHT BACK AND FOURTH MOTION. GO LEFT TO RIGHT AND BACK,THEN GO UP AND DOWN VERTICALY,THEN GO BACK AND FOURTH IN AN X MOTION. THATS SO YOU DONT END UP WITH FLAT SPOTS. WHEN USING YOUR SOAPY WATER KEEP A WET SPONGE IN ONE HAND AND THE PAPER IN THE OTHER. WHILE SANDING GENTLY SQUEZZE THE SPONGE TO KEEP THE WATER FLOWING OVER THE AREA.ONCE EVERY SO OFTEN DIP PAPER INTO BUCKET TO SOAK OFF BUILD UP.2 SHEETS SHOULD DO WHOLE CAR
If it is available in your area, just go buy John Deere Blitz Black. It has a semigloss look, is sealed and is very tough. The only problem is it is illegal in some states (thats how you know it's good )
not so sure you want to leave your car sanded. When you sand primer, it breaks it open which helps paint to adhere to it. It also will allow moisture and other things to penetrated through the primer. Ever see cars driving around with primer spots that are rusting. Primer is for filling not for protecting. Like the other guy said, find a paint that dries to a semi look. It will hold out much longer than primer.
You can't get it in CA, make a run over to Nevada and they have it at any John Deere store. Take a look at my photo album, thats what I painted my car with.<a href="http://hotrodders.com/cgibin/album/album.pl?album=00001849&page=2" target="_blank">My photo album</a>
Thanks to you drgnwgn (again), I've decided to paint my '54 F100 JD Blitz Black. I didn't know it existed. The frame is already painted with JD Gloss Black. I love the stuff. I painted my boat trailer with it seven years ago, and every once in a while I scrub all the Mississippi river mud off of it and it shines like new. So, if the Blitz Black does just as well, that's what I'm gonna do.
Stays in my black and crome theme too.
I looked at your album too. Nice car, and very unique. From your name I was thinkin you had a Ford 289 under the hood, but it ain't so. So I gotta ask. What is it? Is it a Stude 289? I know nothing of Studes, except that we had one when I was a kid.
Sorry for the late reply, I've been gone for while. Well, its a studebaker 289 bored .030 over with KB pistons, R-3 valve springs, erson cam,R-3 intake, headers, water pump and blower setup. It is almost a complete R-3 motor minus the heads. I just put in my 4th tranny in 17 months...I'd say it puts out a decent ammount of power (probably about 300 to the wheels, but thats just a guess).