[pordist]

I have restored many mopars over the years, and became so impressed with POR-15 that I now sell it. I have been a Dist. for Alabama and Mississippi for 8 years now. I have used por-15 for almost 17 years on my own cars. I am not here to sell you anything (unless you need it) I am just here to offer advice on the proper use of it. POR-15 is like a paint, but more like a coating. It can be a little hard to use if you brush through it too much while trying to make it look smooth. I tell all of my customers to paint like you are 10 years old and it will come out perfectly smooth. It does flow out and get a surface tension in 5 minutes or so.

The biggest problem that my customers have is the prep before using POR-15. You have to use a prep on bare metal that will remove oils etc. just like prep for normal paint. It is to your benefit to use gloves! You do not want the wife/girlfriend mad at you because she is scared to be seen with you in public(stains). Yes the stains are not going to come off (unless you have a high pain tolerance) with any normal remover.

Por-15 is going to remind you of powdercoating, but it comes out of a can. It is so chemical resistant that many of my customers use it for battery paint.

If I can help before you use our product, please feel free to ask me. Thanks, Jeff Cleere

 

[rcurrier44]

Got a couple of questions.

I am starting a new project and building a truck to tow show cars. But, would like to make this one nice enough to also enter in the smaller events when I get there. I would love to paint the frame, drivetrain, fenderwells, etc. like I would normaly paint the exterior of a car...however I realize that it would never hold up to rock chips and real use.

So how good of a finish can you get with the product?

I hear its very durable...do you recomend it for fenderwells?

What would you recomend to make it look good? Wet sand? Clear? Any sugestions for how to apply it?

Thanks
ROB

 

[Centerline]

POR will work very well and look very good as long as it's not exposed to UV light (direct sunlight). You can spray it with very little thinning and it flows out very well so it will look nice if sprayed. On the frame I doubt you'd even need to spray it since even with a brush it flows out nicely.

Centerline

 

[STATUTORY GRAPE]

Here's something that will make you SICK! I purchased a gallon of POR-15 last winter for some areas on my Street Rod, now, I don't know if everyone is aware of the cost ($100.00 per gallon) anyway, I opened the can to dip a bit out and dropped the WHOLE DAMN CAN on the shop floor I had no idea how fast that stuff runs out of a gallon can with the top off. I think next time I will order 4 single quart cans. But look at the bright side, AT LEAST I KNOW MY CONCRETE SHOP FLOOR WILL NEVER RUST !!!:thumbup:

 

[pordist]

ROB, I will guess that you want your frame to be black. We do have gloss and semi gloss Black which is the correct GM/Ford chassis color. I would do the wheel wells with the chassis coat black or blackcote because the wells will see some sunlight. The POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed and look the same. It is easier to brush than to spray, especially because of over spray. I would recommend that you start with a good clean surface that is cleaned several times with a non solvent degrease like our marine clean.

I would get all or most of the old paint off the surface, paint with a brush, put on a second coat just as the first coat feels dry to the touch and that's it. It should be a smooth surface that will be very durable. I have had it on my cars for over 10 years and it still looks good. I hope that helps. Jeff

 

[70Shorty]

por15 engine paint,,,

You all seem to like the por 15 product for the frame and such,whats your take on the engine paint system,,
Same outcome,,, :welcome: Bob

 

[RJL]

I wish I could post pics but there is always a problem. I did my 289 in Ford blue. What great stuff. My friend was so impressed that he did his 350 in Chevy Orange and loved it. No chipping or peeling. No brush strokes and clean your engine with anything you want down the road. Yes by all means I recomend their engine kit. I have not responded to several POR threads lately due to many misinformed people trashing the stuff. I have never had a bad experience with any POR product. If I did it means I did not follow the instructions to the letter. Do not apply any knowledge or experiences you have had with other paint. This stuf is a new game. Their coustomer service is awsome also.

 

[70Shorty]

Thanks,RJL, I've seen the stuff on e-bay for the major car brands and there colors for 45.00, sounded good, was a bit leary to buy,you know I never heard or seen what it could do.
Now I know, Like they say now, It's the Bomb,
Right :thumbup:

 

[KnightRunner]

what happens to the stuff if its left in sunlight? ive seen the stuff before but only in pics does it have a glossy finish to it?

 

[RJL]

Regular POR 15 is UV sensitive. If you want a high gloss top it with Black Coat. If you want a factory type finish top it with Chassis Black. If you were referring to the engine paint it is not UV sensitive. Geez! I should sell this stuff!

 

[53LEDSLED]

apparently i am the only idiot that can brush this stuff on right. i sent out the frame to get sand blasted and sprayed it with their Metal Ready, let it dry and then brushed. it looked great, no brush marks at all but a couple months after when i was working on my rear suspension i used some duct tape to hold up some string, and when i removed the tape, the paint came right off i started checking other parts of the frame to see how strong the paint was and it seemed to chip off ain:

any suggestions?

 

[RJL]

I noticed you didn't mention Marine clean step. POR 15 system has to be followed exactly. I had some parts sandblasted and to be sure before applying POR 15 I called and they said most certainly use the three steps or you will have problems. Right down to stirring the paint and not shaking it, the instructions need to be followed.

 

[KnightRunner]

they need to make some paint that aint so damn UV sensitive so i can use it for bedliner on the bed of my elky....hell even oaint the whole car with it....wouldnt really have to worry about rock chips then....

 

[RJL]

Yes they do make a paint that is just as tough, it is called Hardnose. I did a fiberglass canoe for a buddy a year ago with this stuff and repaired some holes with their Restogrip filler. He has given that canoe many runs since then and it looks as good as the day I sprayed it. I have a beater pickup I am going to spray using Hardnose. They also make a clear that is just as tough as well as a full line of body fillers etc.... Here take a look.http://www.por15.com/

 

[FrankR]

apparently i am the only idiot that can brush this stuff on right. i sent out the frame to get sand blasted and sprayed it with their Metal Ready, let it dry and then brushed. it looked great, no brush marks at all but a couple months after when i was working on my rear suspension i used some duct tape to hold up some string, and when i removed the tape, the paint came right off i started checking other parts of the frame to see how strong the paint was and it seemed to chip off ain:

any suggestions?

I think the instructions for the Metal Ready are to wash off the part before you paint it. This of course after some hours of letting the metal ready etch. Also, the temperature of the metal has a lot to do with whether or not the Metal Ready etches very well. Works best aroun 80 deg F I believe.

 

[70Shorty]

80*degrees down here shouldn't be a problem.
Thats been the normal for the last two weeks.
sunny southern Arizona,

Bob

 

[Rob Keller]

How long of Curing before Clear coat?

Hey Y'all
I know this is a Old thread but seems to have most of all the necessary info for POR~15.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My Question is how long should I let it cure before spraying a top coat of clear ?

So it will stay shiny & not be effected by the UV rays.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
A few tips I learned. . . :welcome:

Try to put lotion or baby oil on any exposed skin.

Instead of opening the can I punch a small hole int the top & put a few pieces of tape over the hole.

Make sure to clean the lid & can with a strong paper towel {bounty} each time .

I use 1" chip brushes make sure to pull on the bristols before using .

I use small "solo" hard plastic cups too.

Also get a bunch of disposable vinyl , latex or nitrle gloves.




Rob :thumbup:

 

[price]

Rust Bullet

Rust Bullet has a coating that works as good as por 15 and once painted the rust is gone! I use it on my scrubbers and they are constantly wet and covered in sandblasting residue and no rust! Go Rust Bullet
Clint

 

[oldred]

Rust Bullet has a coating that works as good as por 15 and once painted the rust is gone! Clint

The rust is GONE? The rust is only covered up it is STILL THERE!

 

[Rob Keller]

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My Question is how long should I let it cure before spraying a top coat of clear ?

So it will stay shiny & not be effected by the UV rays.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:

R :thumbup: