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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I didn't hijack Mrwood's thread, I thought I'd ask my question separately.

Does POR-15 go on thin and watery, turing the rusty areas into a black oxide finish? (Is a rust converter a different product altogether??) Or does it go on thick and pasty?

Thanks in advance.

Gear
 

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Paintshop Dog
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There is no such thing as "rust converter"!

Rust is like cancer. There is no "cure". You must remove the area and replace it. If you cover it up it will still be there and will continue to grow. And I don't care what any of the hobbyist have to say about this "miracle potion", IT WILL NOT LAST! I suppose if some **** was able to claim a miracle cure for cancer that you could just rub over the effected area on your body, some poor smucks would spend their money on that to keep from being cut on. And some others would probably actually believe in it! But, beleiving doesn't make it work. We ain't talking about Santa here!

Bad idea! :p
 

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T-Bucket, Corvette, Mustang
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POR-15 Rust Preventive paint is naturally of a consistency that is just a little too thick to be sprayed without additional reduction using POR-15 solvent. It is usually brushed on - eegads!! - but it flows out superbly without leaving brush marks. Open the can, pour out what you will use within a 15-20 period into a separate, 'temporary' container, and seal the can back up right away. Its curing mechanism is triggered by humidity in the air rather than by solvent evaporation or chemical curing such as in epoxy products. This doesn't mean that it should be applied in a humid environment - on the contrary. It just means the amount of humidity in the air at time of application will determine the cure time. If you get to the point where the product is curing in the temporary container (thick and pasty?), discard the remainder of the product and pour more from the can.

The product is a rust encapsulator rather than a rust converter. The premise is to seal the metal from the air thus stopping the rust. It can be applied directly over rust (loose rust / scale is removed beforehand) or to new metal. New metal should be degreased and etched using the appropriate POR-15 products for this.

By the way, I degreased and etched an entire bare metal frame in one evening. Came back the following day and brushed on a coat of POR-15 Rust Preventive paint. It looked like it had been sprayed. Came back the following morning and sprayed a coat of POR-15 BlackCoat over the brushed on coat. From experience, I've found that BlackCoat doesn't flow out as well as the Rust Preventive product so I use a gun when applying BlackCoat.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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Thanks Poncho!

And, Aaron, Darn right I take it serious. We've had that integrity conversation before. The integrity of my work is the foundation of my reputation. And that effects my pocket-book, witch effects my family. Yep, serious. :drool: :mwink: :thumbup:
 

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colormecrazy said:
There is no such thing as "rust converter"!

Rust is like cancer. There is no "cure". You must remove the area and replace it. If you cover it up it will still be there and will continue to grow. And I don't care what any of the hobbyist have to say about this "miracle potion", IT WILL NOT LAST! I suppose if some **** was able to claim a miracle cure for cancer that you could just rub over the effected area on your body, some poor smucks would spend their money on that to keep from being cut on. And some others would probably actually believe in it! But, beleiving doesn't make it work. We ain't talking about Santa here!

Bad idea! :p
Well said!
 
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When working on someone elses car, I only get paid once, therefore I only plan to do it once. When I get the chance to work on my stuff, the pay is even worse, so I sure am not going to take a chance of having to do it again, simply because I didn't take some rust out. I firmly believe that, If those "Miricle rust cures" actually worked as good as some think, there would be alot of it used in many industries. The car manufacturers would not chance having to repair/replace stuff that rusted thru. They would be in a race to have the longest "rust thru warrantee in the industry" to lift sales.

I use a "true rust convertor". It's called an angle grinder!

Aaron
 

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por-15

i used por products in march 2002 when we did the body off on the 73,,everything was coated the steering was done w/ there bare metal finish''metal ready''and sealed w/ there rock hard clear coat''glisten p/c/ its benn 4 years and its still like new,,the car has won 1st place at chicagos chevy vette fest 6 time 1st place-----
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My experience with POR 15 was to use it once on the underside of my Mustang(before I learned better :spank: ) but this was on a clean rust free sandblasted surface, about three years ago and it still looks good. Even with good results so far I am convinced that epoxy would have been a far better choice and with all the differing views about this stuff I decided to experiment with what I had left. As a rust preventive coating on clean metal it SEEMS to work as claimed but then so would epoxy, on moderately rusty metal with no rusted overlapping seams it SEEMS to have completely stopped the rust for the last three years however on an identical test panel that was coated, rust and all, with cheap epoxy(Omni MP 170) the epoxy SEEMS to have worked just as well :confused: Of course rusting on open areas is the easiest to deal with anyway and should be removed instead of covered up. I DO NOT claim this to be a conclusive test by any means and in fact it probably means very little but since I did it I thought it might be of interest. What I get from this is that although POR 15 seems to work as claimed it would appear that the epoxy SEEMS to do just as well, I would assume that would be because it too seals the rust from the air and moisture. In any case neither will do a darn thing for trapped rust that it can not reach no matter what they claim and even if you can slow the rust down it is still there, it is a lot better to just cut it out and be done with it.
 
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