Hot Rod Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
SPI Thug
Joined
·
3,274 Posts
one of my old ppg tech manuals has k36 in it. it was in the kondar days. this manual is from around 84 .
 

·
Automotive Extraordinaire
Joined
·
1,278 Posts
If you are concerned about compatibility, I use SPI epoxy and urethane primers, as well as SPI universal clear coat, all with PPG base coats and have not had any issues with any of the above combinations. I do recommend the SPI base coats if you have the chance to use one of their colors. For a general process, we 80 grit bare metal with a DA and then clean with waterborne then solvent based W&G remover and apply epoxy.

Kelly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
I agree the DP isn't what it used to be. and the Omni 2k is not what it should be. I've had several failures from it on different vehicles. Most of which were evidenced by the paint comming off in sheets, and the primer beneath being powdery. I don't use it anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I am a hot rod shop out of GA and have used PPG for over 30 years with no real problems till lately. The DP epoxy line that we have all used forever is failing me, before the LF or lead free label hit the can it would stick to plate glass around probably around 1998 after that it had to have more cure time before top coat which as of late is at least 24 hrs. But now even at that will pull loose from sandblasted metal, bondo, plastics and sanded metal. I'm even seeing cars at shows where this seems to be a problem any one else experience this as well ???
Rusty -

I am experiencing this same issue on a very expensive show car. Around the time that your post is dated is when this started occurring. This is not an isolated incidence. I have been looking for other people that have had this similar problem. I would LOVE to talk to you on the phone to discuss more. Would you be willing to give me a call at 205-263-5102. I'm in Birmingham, Alabama. I look forward to hearing from you soon! - Terry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I agree the DP isn't what it used to be. and the Omni 2k is not what it should be. I've had several failures from it on different vehicles. Most of which were evidenced by the paint comming off in sheets, and the primer beneath being powdery. I don't use it anymore.
I just found this forum. I would love to talk to you about your issues with PPG. I have a very expensive show car where the paint has been coming off in sheets due to PPG and DP90 failure. Please give me a call to discuss if you don't mind. My number is 205-263-5102. I'm in Birmingham, Alabama.

Thank you! - Terry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Regarding user "Rustyfender"

I know this is a long shot here, but would anyone have the contact info for Rustyfender should you have had previous discussions with him? It is very important that I get in contact with him regarding his experience with this PPG epoxy failure as I'm having some major issues with the company as well and would like to speak with him to ask him a couple of questions regarding his experience with it.

Please let me know if any of you can. Would like to have Rustyfender give me a brief call to discuss if possible! 205-263-5102. - Terry H., Birmingham, AL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Rustyfender - Could you please contact me regarding this PPG epoxy from 2016? I'd like to ask you a couple questions if you don't mind as I'm having a major issue on a very expensive show car of mine where the painter used PPG epoxy. Please contact me if you can! 205-263-5102. [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
I don't use urethane primers very much so when I did I just ran down and got a quick qt of omini 2k it seemed like pretty good stuff to me, that is until I saw how bad it shrank on a black truck I did. It looked great for a while, only it seems to shrink for months but very slowly, after a year or two its pretty noticeable.(if that makes any sense). I had to toss the omini 2k primer and chalk up another one as junk not to buy. I should have known better but my guy that delivers my materials doesn't have qts just gallons of primer and about a qt got wasted because it was just too thick to use after a while. Now I take the time to clean the top of the can and seal the primer up well so it lasts longer.
I've had failure with Omni 2K PPG rep paid for the re-do. Paint comming off in sheets, with powder primer residue on it. Car had not even left the shop yet. Hadda strip, and re-prime, with something else. I chose to use Slick Sand on the second go 'round, paint has held up now for about 10 years.

I used DP for many years, it was the "Cat Daddy". DPLF OTOH is crap.
I used Sikkens Autobase for years, was good stuff, prime formula would match perfect. They took out my system, and replaced it with Autobase Plus. I was sorely disapointed with it, and went to Global. While Global is good stuff, It's kinda expensive. And sometimes it's more cost effective to order a pint of DBC, than to mix 8oz of BC.
I've been using 2002 clear since it came out, and just love it. But I tried SPI universal a couple years ago, and found that I like it as well.
I'm still up in the air about SPI epoxy, While it seems to be good stuff, I've had a couple of issues crop up recently, and I cannot say definitevly what the cause is, untill I get into the repair. Both issues, are on my own vehicles, so it will be a while before I get to that.
I will say this though, steer clear of Nason if you want a quality job that will hold up for a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thanks for your reply, st3gamefarm. Anyone that has had DP-90 separate after applying to the car, or has noticed that DP-90 doesn't dry as quick as it's advertised and is causing problems... please encourage them to contact me. [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello, I know this is an old thread but I'm experiencing this issue as well. Little back story to the situation. My Camaro was stripped to bare metal, then Dp epoxied and body worked after that. After laser straight we Dp all bare spots and light coat over all. It was always broken open if after 3 day window. Next was 2 coats of ppg vibrance polyester primer. Sat for three months before we blocked that out. Next was couple coats of Ppg dps 3057. Again sat for good couple months before we got back to it. Then it's was wet blocked out and painted with Ppg dmd1683 and 4000 clear. This was done around April of 2017. All was great and time to finish build. Noticed in spring of 2018 paint popping in trunk jam. Then noticed along lower body line on both doors had little lift spots. Then came around door strikers. Ppg came out looked at it and said polyester primer shrunk. It took 6 months before anyone would look at it. Boiling at this point. Anyways didn't address issues it was finally driveable early summer of 2019. I wanted to enjoy it for awhile. Now Feb 2020 we dug into it and we are finding that the dp epoxy is not sticking to the metal. Fantastic! The base layer is the root of the problem. So the paint and body was done by my brother-in-law with 25+yrs of paint and body at collision shop and custom jobs as well only using Ppg products. I have no doubt in his abilities to deliver. The time and money into this paint is sicking. Ppg Dp90 epoxy failed period! Sorry for the long story but probably better to give some of the specifics. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
James68 - PLEASE CONTACT ME

James- Please contact me regarding your issue with the DP-90. I have the same issue on a grand scale show car of mine and would like to discuss something with you. My number is 205-910-4449. My office is 205-263-5102. My email is [email protected].

I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Also - IF ANYONE HAS AN ISSUE WITH DP-90 FAILURE OR PAINT COMING LOOSE FROM THE METAL OF THE VEHICLE AFTER USING DP-90, PLEASE CONTACT ME! MY INFORMATION IS ABOVE.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Dusterdude3404 - I'd like to speak with you too!

Dusterdude3404, I'd like to speak with you too. Please contact me. Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
And avoid Omni anything like the plague.
I used to use DP, then DP LF, the LF part was noticable on the first go 'round. I quit using it. I tried several others, and finally settled on SPI, for cost and functionality.
I still use a lot of PPG products. Mostly color coats, and SS. I very rarely use any urethane primer/surfacers. And rarely use any high build surfacers. When I do, it's usually a polyester product, being applied over a polyester filler.
I don't have many problems, and when I do, it's usually self inflicted.

I had an issue with Omni 2k where it simply turned loose from the substrate, whether it was over metal, epoxy, or polyester filler. didn't matter. Came off in sheets, with a powdery residue left between the primer and the substrate. I would say the binder seperated from the high build filler in the primer. But it dosen't matter, as I no longer use that product anyway.
 

·
Slow but willing learner
Joined
·
5,153 Posts
You have voiced my sentiments exactly. I am done with PPG. I have blisters all over the back half of my roadster with DPLF. Doors are SPI epoxy and not a blemish.

John
 

·
Grand Prix user
Joined
·
5,416 Posts
Wanting to puke every time the word epoxy is written on this forum is something I have gotten used to. Just like people digging up this thread. So with equally dogmatic sentiment, I am going to state a fact.

People who use PPG epoxy primer without problems exist.

There is something to be learned from that.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top