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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter #1
Need to paint my 69 El Camino. It's finished in a base clear. Not sure of paint brand. A lot of peel to block out.
What grit paper should I use and what type primer?
Thanks.
 

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Grand Prix user
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5,416 Posts
Depends on the approach you want to take. General non-brand specific guidelines based on my experience and training-

Assuming no break-throughs and using only 2K primer-sealer then color in a "wet-on-wet" application: 320 dry, finish with DA.

Assuming yes break-throughs and using 2K primer-surfacer, sanded, then color: 80 DA for bare metal, featheredge existing finish with 180 DA, prime, initially block with 240, finish blocking with 320, final sand with 400 dry or 600 wet ( see color man'f recommendation)

You may find that some urethane primers can be mixed as surfacer or sealer.

You may find that some epoxy (nudge) can, as well.
 

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Registered
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852 Posts
Depends on what you're looking for. If you want to just knock the peel off and reclear it maybe 600 grit?
That will give you a kind of flat surface to spray onto, and plenty of tooth for the new clear to stick to.
Have a professional lay down a nice slick couple coats of clear. You will be looking good.
Anything above and beyond that you're going to have to start from the bottom up.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
Joined
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4,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Depends on what you're looking for. If you want to just knock the peel off and reclear it maybe 600 grit?
That will give you a kind of flat surface to spray onto, and plenty of tooth for the new clear to stick to.
Have a professional lay down a nice slick couple coats of clear. You will be looking good.
Anything above and beyond that you're going to have to start from the bottom up.

Color change is what I'm doing.
And a couple of hood stripes.
Looking to use a solid, single stage urethane in red.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
Joined
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4,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Depends on the approach you want to take. General non-brand specific guidelines based on my experience and training-

Assuming no break-throughs and using only 2K primer-sealer then color in a "wet-on-wet" application: 320 dry, finish with DA.

Assuming yes break-throughs and using 2K primer-surfacer, sanded, then color: 80 DA for bare metal, featheredge existing finish with 180 DA, prime, initially block with 240, finish blocking with 320, final sand with 400 dry or 600 wet ( see color man'f recommendation)

You may find that some urethane primers can be mixed as surfacer or sealer.

You may find that some epoxy (nudge) can, as well.

Thanks.

No DA for the large areas. My daughter needs to learn how much work her desires require, ha.....she's gonna have some fun in her future.
Elbow grease....I may buy her the extra large tub, being the good dad that I am.

And there are some break throughs here and there. Especially where I crazy glued a piece of paint back on.
I will need to pry up on paint beside it to see if it's holding on properly or if it was an isolated incident.
 

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More for Less Racer
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19,477 Posts
Yep^^^^ Even if you were to use paint stripper down to bare metal you'd still have to DA the whole thing for primer adhesion.

She'll get plenty of sore fingers and elbows just from everywhere the DA can't go. It's all those edge areas that are the most important for how well done and detailed the finish ends up anyway....big panels are the easy work.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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4,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. Gotta do some tuning on Curse, hit the track once or twice, and then take off the moldings and start on the large panels while it's still cruising season. I'll do the edges when the lousy weather comes and she's in the garage.

Need to figure out lighting in the meantime.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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4,907 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Garage lighting that is.
 
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