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I need to primer my '73 Nova. Im looking for some black primer but for quite some time i've been told that i cant use primer sealer if i want to paint the car later. is that true at all? i've been using sandable primer. i have to keep wetsanding it every month or so to get the surface rust off. i want the car painted, but at a much later time when i can afford it. i'd like a primer sealer to keep the car from rusting in the meantime and still be able to leave it out in the rain if need be with no worries. any help is appreciated.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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I have no idea why someone would tell you that a primer/sealer can't be painted over, THAT is just what it is for. THAT is what the name implys.

"Primer"=over bare metal/"sealer" = to be top coated. :)

Get a good epoxy primer and cover that darn car before you get into trouble. Of course, if you have some "sandable" (sounds like it is out of a rattle can) on bare metal and you are seeing rust poking thru, you are going to have to remove all that primer and clean that metal up before you do anything.

If we are talking about a complete car and you are doing this in your spare time, I HIGHLY recommend you do a panel or two at a time. Strip that "sandable" primer off and epoxy prime it, then move on to the next panel or two your next "work time".
 

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Problem Child,Hard Case
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Our 69 Chevelle was lacquer primered when it got into my hands and was rusting thru.No vehicle should be left in a regular primer state for long especially if outdoors as the regular primer will absorb all sorts of contaminates which will murder your paint job later. I DA'd it and shot Dupont Nasson epoxy primer on. We had this for a year and a half while building the car and beating and banging finalizing things before the final body work and paint. One thing about epoxy though, It's HARD to sand later after curing till you get the top skin off but it won't rust thru anymore and is a great base to work from for the completion of the paint work as epoxy seals and is impervious to contamination. Hence the need to "scratch" it before applying anything.
 

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It is important to know that many epoxy primers are not what they used to be. If they are LF (lead free they are junk). PPG DP 90 used to rock. Now in many states it if LF and is like water colors. It will wipe off with reducer! Do yourself a favor, if you are going to prime a vehicle before "really" painting it after stripping the paint, prime if then put some cheap urethane paint over it. You can get some that was mixed but not used from the paint store cheap. Cruising in just primer, even epoxy is not a good idea. If you can prime, you can do a bad temporary paint job over it. Don't worry about build up. You will be using the "temporary" paint as a filler when you block sand the entire car. It will almost all be sanded off.
*****If anyone knows of any professional mechanics, bodymen, fabricators, I am looking for employees for my shop in L.A. *****************
 

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agree with Martinsr, Epoxy it BUT you will have to keep it covered when outside.

The epoxy has poor UV protection, the Austin TX sun will destroy it fairly fast.

How much of the steel is exposed?
 

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sakowskimotors said:
It is important to know that many epoxy primers are not what they used to be. If they are LF (lead free they are junk). PPG DP 90 used to rock. Now in many states it if LF and is like water colors. It will wipe off with reducer! Do yourself a favor, if you are going to prime a vehicle before "really" painting it after stripping the paint, prime if then put some cheap urethane paint over it. You can get some that was mixed but not used from the paint store cheap. Cruising in just primer, even epoxy is not a good idea. If you can prime, you can do a bad temporary paint job over it. Don't worry about build up. You will be using the "temporary" paint as a filler when you block sand the entire car. It will almost all be sanded off.
*****If anyone knows of any professional mechanics, bodymen, fabricators, I am looking for employees for my shop in L.A. *************/url] [/B][/quote] **...nt you stereotyping all epoxy because of one.
 

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PPG's EPX900 is a good epoxy in the industrial coatings line that is economical- 2gallons of sprayable for about $100. It seems to be more durable than the DPLF IMO and I've used it on numerous jobs with great success. CRE-CT is also in the industrial line and is being used in auto restoration shops in my area, it offers a thicker build and is tintable, the military is testing it for certification at this time. I'll be doing some projects and testing with the CRE-CT soon. If the PPG rep suggests it then I'm comfortable with it. Epoxy does take quite awhile to fully cure, full cure is required for the product to be sandable. Do a search on PPG's website and you'll find the tech sheets for both of these products. Bob
 

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the military is testing it for certification at this time. I'll be doing some projects and testing with the CRE-CT soon. If the PPG rep suggests it then I'm comfortable with it. [/B][/QUOTE]

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Sorry to inform you but I think your PPG rep is lying to you about certification.
Its not happening and it won't happen.
Only time the military on epoxy uses a different standard is for special projects that their current one (20+yrs) don't meet.
 

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Dplf 90

Call your PPG Representative. I called them when I was wiping off the epoxy with reducer (lightly and not very wet) when it started wiping off. Call Finishmasters in Los Angeles. He said his sales have fallen through the floor after the change to LF, and there have been failure problems etc.. I LOVE good epoxy primer, I used to SWEAR by DP90, but the new DPLF90 really blows. It scares me. Wil Sakowski, *********** Call me and I will give you the phone number Monday. If the primer had weeks to cure in hot weather, it probably wouldn't wipe off, but who knows how it will hold up. I don't want my customers and me to be the guinea pigs.

Vince, are you sure it was LF? I thought you still had the good stuff in Texas, unlike California.
 

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Using epoxy primer as a sealer

I want to use epoxy primer as a sealer rite before I shoot the basecoat, what mixture rate and how many layers, and wait time, any info would be helpful, it is in 2k primer now and I am wetsanding to 400 and 600 grit
 

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I want to use epoxy primer as a sealer rite before I shoot the basecoat, what mixture rate and how many layers, and wait time, any info would be helpful, it is in 2k primer now and I am wetsanding to 400 and 600 grit
I use SPI epoxy and reduce it 25 - 33%. I spray a single light coat on with the same gun I spray the color with (which is my Iwata LPH-400).
I wait 30 minutes to one hour and then spray the color.

Doing this is probably more appropriately called an adhesion coat than a sealer coat. However, it could double for helping you with color too. If your base color is black, use black epoxy for you sealer/adhesion coat and white for white.
Gray is best for blues, greens and reds.
 
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