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Hellbilly Hotrods
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey yall, quick question. im planning on taking my duster down to bare metal, but i dont have anywhere to do the priming via spraygun. i was wondering, since ill be doing all the bodywork except for the final final blocking, priming, and painting, if i could get away with the spray can primer that they sell in the parts stores? will it hold up?
what will it do underneath the final primer and paint?
also, what color primer should i use?
thanks fer the help, yall.
mike
 

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35 Posts
I would not use a spray can primer. That stuff will not hold up plus you will need to put an etch primer down first. You might want to get a cheap hvlp primer gun and prime it in your garage or a buddys garage. Every step of a painting process must be done right with the right materials or the whole project will fail.
 

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Well what do the prices run on these HVLP paint guns, what is an alternative. I stripped my dad's truck down 2 years ago, and use spray can primer on it, the whole thing, and it's still primered, and there is zero rust coming through, it still hasn't faded, nothing, almost looks like the day him and I did it. Don't get me wrong man, you are right on doing it the right way. But you also have to go with your budget for the time being too. I mean I see nothing wrong with doing it that way, just to get it looking better until you have more money to do it the right way. But if you have the money, I would recommend doing it the right way as well.
 

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Hellbilly Hotrods
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Discussion Starter #5
see, the problem is, i have the gun and everything, just nowhere to spray. i dont have an air compressor that mobile, and the garage im working in i CANNOT get overspray in. so i have to prime outside.
thats the reasoning behind this post.

mike
 

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I would say that a cheap primer hvlp gun you could probably get for about 100 bucks I think. Not sure though. Although that is what it would be, cheap. That truck might not have rust, depends on how much of the elements it sees. But believe me, if you put you final applications over the top of it, it eventually will fail.
Hvlp does stand for high volume low pressure so if it is used right, the amount of overspray is very limited. And for the overspray that it does create, put some plastic up around the vehicle to protect everything in the garage.
As for the budget. Not trying to offend anyone on this sight. I have only been a member for a few months and I do not put up alot of post. I only put up post when I can help someone else with something that I know. I do no put up post just to post. I have worked in paintshops for over ten years. I have painted probably over a thousand vehicles. Not all completes since I do mostly collision work, but the process is pretty much always the same. One thing that you always hear in body shops is that you get what you pay for. So it always puzzles me when people complain that they dont have it in their budget. I have always looked at it like, if you dont have the money to do it right then dont do it. Or just wait until you do. Nothing costs more than doing something twice.
I really hope that I have not offended anyone on this sight. I can tell that most of the members on this sight or good members. And I enjoy being apart of it.
 

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Hellbilly Hotrods
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
ypou made a good point, paintman. it does cost more to do it twice than do it right once.

can i prime it outdoors with an etching primer, or is this a no-no?
if i do have to do it outside, any suggestions for how to keep the primer off everthing else?
thanks much, yall.
oh, i do have a spray gun. dont know what kind it is, a body-guy friend of mine loaned/tgave it to me to use for this purpose.
thanks
mike
 

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I dont know how good it would work primering outside. With the wind blowing it all around. When I first started doing this stuff back in my parents garage, this is way way back before working in a real bodyshop, I had the same problem with not being able to get overspray all over. So I hung plastic over the rafters so it hung down to the floor kind of making a little booth. Then i would wet the floor down with water to keep dust from flying up and the water also helps to keep the paint from sticking to the floor. Put a little fan to help suck the fumes out and away I went . It worked for priming. I never painted in that. If that does not work for you than I really do not have any other ideas. Maybe someone has a better idea. Good luck anyway. If you have any other questions I will be here.
 

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ASE Master
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246 Posts
NAPA's 5105 or5102primer is a direct to metal primer surfacer no etch primer is needed,New product and works on putty, galvanized and fiberglass. Talked to some guys been using it and it dries shiny. Have seen guys in your circumstance prime with a fine nap roller to protect but takes more sanding to get it flat again. Wouldn't use a spray can unless you plan to take it all back off before paint. You should use the same brand product from prime to clear. HVLP doesn't leave moch overspray. Ray
 
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