[Norwegian]

How fast will primed metal absorbe moisture and begin to rust?
I was planning to work on my car this winter and paint it next summer when the temperature
rises. The climat is'nt that good in the winterseason ( six months ) where I live, and my garage is not permanently heated.

Would it be a good idea to temporary seal the welded and primed areas with paint or...?

 

[Kevin45]

You'll be fine with just the primer. If it is in the garage that is an added bonus. Don't worry about it and keep your fingers crossed that winter is not 6 months long. I HATE IT.

Kevin

 

[Norwegian]

Thank's for the advice.
My Trans Am and I hate snow but the kids love it.

Pettersen

 

[Halloweenking]

Thats alright, my bones and I hate winter, but my Trans Am loves it

You should be fine with primer for the winter in a garage, but keep an eye on it, noot sure how the winters are in norway other than cold, but here its very very moist (no snow) and things can get pretty nasty quick just by opening a door. Like Kevin says you should be fine if its in out of the weather.

HK

 

[Vaughn68]

I live in Texas where the winters here are most others summers (we wont discuss our summers).
How long can I leave the primer on my GTO before I will see signs of trouble. I want to prime this winter but I dont know when I will be able to paint. This is also my daily so it wont be garaged except at night.

 

[tlambert]

Not sure how long it would take. Most urethane primers hold up ok to weather BUT, most all primers will allow water to pass through to the metal. The best solution is to wait and prep the car all in one shot and paint it. Why do extra work sanding rust and your primer back off later.

 

[TurboS10]

Epoxy primer should repel moisture, but it is expensive. If you put a coat of epozy first and then some surfacer to smooth things out you should not have rust issues at all. Correct me if I am wrong someone

Chris

 

[Norwegian]

The whether forecast for southern parts of Norway this winter:
The temperatures are expected to vary between –10 and 40.
Seriously, the cold and dry period of the winter – as presented in my Christmascards – will not give me any problems I hope. The spring season near the coast however, may be very wet when the fjords are not frozen. That’s my concern
Sometimes the whether stay like that for weeks.. and doing the work and paint it within a few weeks is not an option ( my wife’s opinion )
Maybe epoxy primer is a solution to my problem?

Another question; does epoxy primer have any other properties besides not absorbing moisture? Are there other qualities I have to look for when selecting a primer?


Pettersen

 

[Halloweenking]

Epoxy primers/sealers are good for exactly that. When selecting a primer you have a range of primer/sealers to choose from. From high build primers to the day to day stuff to spray on just for a barrier between bodywork and paint. high build primers are primers that coat the body very well reducing or completely covering low spots sand scratches and things of that sort. Go to your local paint shop and ask to see the P sheets on all of their primers. These sheets will tell you what the primers for, what caracteristics that primer has, it optimal heat range, its drying time and etc. Then just pick the one that best suits your needs. You can also see these P-sheets on the PPG products here. if you have anymore questions let me know, be happy to help.

HK

 

[bullheimer]

HK wouldn't you think that if someone just wants to halt rust and fully plans on sanding everything down to bare metal in the summer that maybe they should just forget primer all together and whip out a can of black (hi solid) spray paint (making it waterproof)??

toanswer your question, viking man, if i could rate rust proof a bility:
etching primer: worst, @ 3-4 months
grey primer: @ 6-12 mo.s
red oxide: real good, coupla years plus
zero-rust primer: forever
black spray paint: ditto

[ November 08, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>

 

[Norwegian]

Viking man’s Conclusion: Regular primer may/may not last for 6 months depending on the weather and 6 months counted in car-project sometimes last for a year ( HK, bullheimer and other contributors might have some experience on this )

I’ll invest some extra $ in long-lasting primer – without asking my wife!

Thanks, Pettersen

 

[brief madness]

As Bullheimer mentioned, red oxide primer is great for sealing the metal. I used it on 2 off road bugs that went through rain storms and everything mother nature could throw at it.

 

[bobz_rodz]

Ok heres the deal get it to bare metal, do your body work. Use a product called "Slick Sand" by Evercoat or ECI. This is a spray Polyester (light weight body filler like a very fine top coat or high build primer) spray with a 2.0 tip on your gun put a few coats of this on the entire panel, then give it a day or 2 to dry then block sand with 150 or 220 then put on your high build primer. You will do 2 things here. 1 you will have all your body work completed, ready minus final sanding for paint. and 2 you will have completely sealed that panel from moister. "Slick Sand has a resign that is also in fiberglass and water doesnt go throught it... Period!!!. I have a hood (test panel) that I took down to bare metal and slick sanded it and set outside at my body shop to make sure that product would hold up. well the hood has sat outside for a year and a half now and NO rust has broken through.. So thats the scoop. you would even have to paint your car next summer and you wont have a worry..

 

[Nick Davis]

Originally posted by Norwegian:
<strong>How fast will primed metal absorbe moisture and begin to rust?
I was planning to work on my car this winter and paint it next summer when the temperature
rises. The climat is'nt that good in the winterseason ( six months ) where I live, and my garage is not permanently heated.

Would it be a good idea to temporary seal the welded and primed areas with paint or...?</strong><hr></blockquote>

 

[Nick Davis]

This may sound like a silly reminder, but be sure to primer both sides of the sheet metal. I've made dumber mistakes.

 

[stevesauto]

steve here you need to use reaguler primer on all bare metal then i would use a good sealer primer over that if you did not sand the whole car you dont need to primer the painted parts till you get ready to paint the whole car then you will need to seal the whole car then paint

 

[dhaleta]

I also have had good luck with red oxide primer in dry climates. Regular grey primers will rust in a few months requiring sanding (once again) down to bare metal. You can however get an etching primer that will not rust. They are fairly expensive costing wholesale around $90.00 per gallon. They also require a catalyst to kick off. There are some aerosol versions of etching primers available, Eastwoods has one, but they are extremely expensive at $20.00 a pop! The flat black primers look good but I have had no experiance with them. Doe's anyone know if the black primers hold up to the humidity without rusting?

Thanks,

Dave H.

 

[bondsman]

don't waste your time. Do it all at once. I don't care what primer you use, primer absorbs water, period!

 

[TurboS10]

Originally posted by bondsman:
<strong>don't waste your time. Do it all at once. I don't care what primer you use, primer absorbs water, period!</strong><hr></blockquote>


I have used Martin Seniour Epoxy Primer and it will bead water for a while out in the weather. It does not absorb moisture and it is hard as a freakin rock. It is very good for bare metal.

Chris

 

[tlambert]

Here are two sites that may help answer questions that you have, but there are plenty more.
Here