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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 72 Mercury Comet ( Yes I already now its a piece), however I have spent a lot of money on this motor and I want to see it finished. I have a 302 (out of a 69 Falcon), punched .060" over, Crower cam .491 int .512ex .050 duration, 10 20 crank, flat top pistons, Crower connecting rods, 289 heads off a 66 Mustang, ported and polished, 1.6:1 roller rockers for a 289 that are STUD mounted, Chevy 202 valves, performance springs all that good stuff (there is alot more, if you want to know just ask and Ill tell ya). I was told I could use the ORIGINAL push rods from the old 302. Needless to say after a few turns they had a few bends in them. The valves did not bend, we did a compression test and they are just fine. Now, MY (MY) understanding is that Ford rockers you just torque them to 20 f lbs and thats it. I have been told that because of the type of rockers, that they ARE adjustable and thats why the push rods bent. Whats the procedure for adjusting them? I think on Chevy's, you turn them til its snug and then maybe 3/4s of a turn more and thats it. Is it the same? And what length push rod do I use? I was told 289 push rods would work. This is really the only thing stopping me from driving my car. I would be extremely grateful for any advice. Thank you.
 

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Pushrods

I have 65 HO heads on my 84 302,these came with adjustable rockers and screw in studs,go to Summit and search: pushrods Crane 289 Ford they show you the different length used,match the pushrods to the heads and you are good to go.Adjust like the chevys' do.
 

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By the way, there is nothing wrong with a early 70s Maverick or Comet, well, unless it is a fourdoor sedan, it is not a fourdoor sedan is it??
Well, these days most young rodders don't care about the twodoor vs fourdoor or sedan vs hardtop nonsense. They realize it only matters that you have an old car.
 

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haley72 said:
I have a 72 Mercury Comet ( Yes I already now its a piece), however I have spent a lot of money on this motor and I want to see it finished. I have a 302 (out of a 69 Falcon), punched .060" over, Crower cam .491 int .512ex .050 duration, 10 20 crank, flat top pistons, Crower connecting rods, 289 heads off a 66 Mustang, ported and polished, 1.6:1 roller rockers for a 289 that are STUD mounted, Chevy 202 valves, performance springs all that good stuff (there is alot more, if you want to know just ask and Ill tell ya). I was told I could use the ORIGINAL push rods from the old 302. Needless to say after a few turns they had a few bends in them. The valves did not bend, we did a compression test and they are just fine. Now, MY (MY) understanding is that Ford rockers you just torque them to 20 f lbs and thats it. I have been told that because of the type of rockers, that they ARE adjustable and thats why the push rods bent. Whats the procedure for adjusting them? I think on Chevy's, you turn them til its snug and then maybe 3/4s of a turn more and thats it. Is it the same? And what length push rod do I use? I was told 289 push rods would work. This is really the only thing stopping me from driving my car. I would be extremely grateful for any advice. Thank you.
Cranking the engine using stock pushrods should not have bent the pushrods unless something mechanical is hitting.....

The US Military has a term for this....lol.. cluster-mess :welcome:

First thing is which 289 heads. Some 66 are guided pushrod holes, some are round holes with guided rail type rocker arms. Not interchangable nor mixable parts. Period. Mid-year production run change.

Second, if the early type with slotted holes or if using guide plates, you must have hardened push rods, later type do not.

Third, you MUST measure your push rod length needed. Altering valves and head/deck height alters geometry. Stock length will not be correct. Since you used Chevy length valves as most people do, then the pushrod length is WAY OFF.
Also you must watch for rocker arm to retainer interferance with the valves fully closed when you use Chevy valves. Large diameter valve springs with short Chevy valves requires special rocker arms, or you must grind your rocker arms for clearance.

Fourth, 202 valves in a 289 head? You must have installed special machined-in installed intake valve seats because even 1.94s touch the big spark plug hole in most every case. 202s are impossible, so even if you did install special intake seats then small exhaust valves are mandatory so the valves don't hit together in the middle.

Fifth, as for torquing rocker arm adjusting nuts..... NO NO, those are adjustable rockers. The amount of tightening depends on the lifter lash, or drag. If you have hydraulics the procedure is the same as Chevy, like you said.

Sixth, you should check for spring stacking AND retainer to guide clearance.

Seventh, 202 valves require special piston eyebrow notching. Stock type replacement pistons will not accomodate 202 valves, and some will not tolerate 194s. So even with your mild cam you could have valve to piston interference.

Cranking the engine using stock pushrods should not have bent the pushrods unless something mechanical is hitting.....

as outlined in all the above posts and items.

Good luck. :welcome:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First Thank for the info. :D
Second, The pistons DO have the eyebrow notching you speak of.
Third, The valves are 202s and 194s I have turned the motor several times (without it firing obviously) I didn't hear any ticking to indicate the there is piston clearance problems. Not to say that there isn't. Ill still check that.
Forth, The heads are actually 68 heads with the adjustable rockers and round holes. They adjust like Chevy valves.
Fifth, As far as Chevy valves in the heads. The guy I bought the motor from started to grind and bore on the heads but stopped when he found a crack. I never would have thought to put Chevy valves in a Ford motor. I ended up buying a new head (well used but you know what I mean). So I had to do Chevy valves. Why DO you put Chevy valves in Ford heads? Is it to get more air in and exhaust out quicker? The tech that did the work is the best in our town so I know he wouldn't have put them in if he thought they wouldn't work. I had explained what I was doing with the motor. He also assembled the heads; Again, he wouldn't have done anything that he thought would not work.
Sixth, MILD CAM? I thought that was pretty big for a cam? At least for a 302.
Seventh, The Comet is a 2 door. I don't care that the car is old. That's not why I doing this. I building it for a 1\4 mi track. I know I need alot more than a motor. Im also doing gears and tranny, all that good stuff. I work seven days a week. I don't have any fun anymore. I got hooked on dragging almost a year ago. Its like crack for me. I cant get enough. I cant explain the feeling I get when I roll up to the tree and its me and the car next to me and nothing else matters except what happens in the next 10-13 seconds. Im sure you guys know what Im talking about.
Seventh (or eighth for those of you who are counting), Well actually thats it. I have spent alot of money on this motor for the best and highest performance everything I needed. I think I have done the due diligence and I hope I will end up with a car that might be some what awesome. I have learned alot since starting this project and Im ALL WAYS looking for something more to learn. Please keep the input coming.This is how I learn the best. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The tech I have working on the car right now says that from the information that I gave him I should run about 10.7 maybe 11:1 ratio. I found a web site where you out in your info and it tells you your static compression ratio and it said 34.89. Do that number make any sense? And do they agree with each other?
 

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haley72 said:
The tech I have working on the car right now says that from the information that I gave him I should run about 10.7 maybe 11:1 ratio. I found a web site where you out in your info and it tells you your static compression ratio and it said 34.89. Do that number make any sense? And do they agree with each other?
Go back to the calculator and enter all your data in either all cc's or all cubic inches. I think you used some of each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also you have to remember Im running a motor punched 60 over with flat top pistons and closed combustion 289 heads. From what I have researched and discussed with other car builders; That should yield a high compression ratio. Maybe Im wrong though. Im not a "hot rodder" per say. I just started to get in to this sort of thing. Let me know what you think.
 

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Chevy valves are less expensive than Ford valves.
Often people put stock Chevy valves into small block Fords, because they are super cheap, and often used and free.

I didn't say some of that wouldn't work, I tried to say that it takes special parts and precautions to make it work.

except the 202 valves.... you can't use 202/160 valves together, nor 202s as I explained.

Crower cam .491 int .512ex .050 duration,
This ^^^^tells absolutely nothing about the camshaft ^^^^^^ except that it isn't very agressive or the lift would be higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
xntrik said:
Chevy valves are less expensive than Ford valves.
Often people put stock Chevy valves into small block Fords, because they are super cheap, and often used and free.

I didn't say some of that wouldn't work, I tried to say that it takes special parts and precautions to make it work.

except the 202 valves.... you can't use 202/160 valves together, nor 202s as I explained.



This ^^^^tells absolutely nothing about the camshaft ^^^^^^ except that it isn't very agressive or the lift would be higher.
What "Cam Specs" do you need to tell you about the cam? And, Ive tried through out this process to buy the parts I would need. Make sure they are the best I can get and that they are going to work with what I have. Im just trying to learn, thats all.
 
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