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Discussion Starter #1
Took a pic of my quarter before he gets the bondo out. Man I hope we can repair what's underneath. It's thick, but when I looked inside while stripping the car I didn't notice any heavy caved in areas, so maybe we'll get lucky.
The rest of the quarter is fine. but the louvered area is crunched.
 

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Now that's some heavy sculpting! Hopefully you can bump it out but working these tight areas around the louvers can be tough. Is this the car that had the spoiler problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yep it's the same one, we got the spoiler off. A little rust under where it attached to the quarter tops. I'll get a new trunk lid and just leave the spoiler off. :( But I think it'll be fine, I ran it for years without one before adding it in the 80's when molded stuff was popular.

Went by yesterday to check on it and they got all the mud out of that louvered area. I'll try and get a pic soon, but it's a goner. Not sure how best to repair it though. Absolutely no way to work it back out and the damage goes into the door jamb. About what I thought going in.
My idea is to buy a full quarter, it comes with sail panel and door jamb. The rest of my quarter is in great shape, rather than try and replace the full quarter, maybe cut from the where the quarter glass meets the sail down to the wheel well at the center body line. Essentially taking out the front third of the panel and the jamb.

Only real issue is I would have a welded seam in a short distance of flat panel. Pretty much following the mud line from the corner down to the center body line.
But I wonder where the line should be drawn between replacing the full quarter vs this one section.
Or maybe it's possible to follow the upper body line back and then go down to the center line and leave the quarter glass section intact.


Opinions please...
 

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428ho-

I'm working on a 68 FB also....Ive replaced both rear quarter skins (not the full quarters) on my car. If your having the bodywork done by someone else I would ask them what would be easiest for them to do? Most will say that it is easiest for them to just install a whole new quarter panel.....rather than install patchs and add mud and then sand it. You should also ask yourself what the intended purpose of the car is......if its a show type car or a car that you think you will sell in the future....or a car that you want to be perfect.....then, in my opinion, definitely go with a new quarter panel. If a potential buyers asks....they will be more comforted hearing you had the full quarter replaced than if it was a patch panel type job.

Keep in mind that odds are that up on the quarter/sail panel seam there is a high probability that there is rust there and also rust on the inner sail part of the quarter panel. Almost all of these cars have rust there after about 40 years. Yours could be different though.

Also, installing and aligning the new Taiwan made replacement full quarter panels is not easy some fit great and some require a bit of light mods to get a great fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The shop that has the car is doing all the body and paint, so I will defer to them on the best vs cost way to do it. It's getting fixed no doubt, just trying to figure out options before hand. I almost hired them to blast and epoxy only but after seeing their work, I can't compete with that, my body work skills are very low, mechanical I can handle. It's not going to be a show car but not a 20 footer either.
They should be done with blasting today and have it in epoxy Monday, so we'll get together Monday or Tuesday to decide what's worth fixing vs replacing. Trying real hard not to go by and bug them every day. :nono:
Which is doubly hard since they're only a mile from work.

I'm also trying to not use import metal, but full quarter with Jamb I really don't have many options. Radiator support is a given. Only $85, front fenders we'll discuss. My guess is a wash, labor to fix vs cost to replace and fit.
I also have another 68 FB to do after this one, so whatever is worth recycling to the other I will. Big learning curve on this frame off Resto.

Trunk lid is cheap to replace, but Firebird is a little different than Camaro even though they're listed as the same now from Goodmark and others. So I'm trying to locate a gennie.
Looks like my doors are fine, a few pin holes in the drivers floor, find out next week on patch and weld or cut and replace.
So far the car has surprisingly little rust, just this major crash damage in the quarter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Finally got a real good look at the quarter. YUK!
We could cut around it but after talking it out it will be cheaper and better to replace the whole thing since I have to buy the OE style quarter to get the jamb anyway.

Do have some sheetmetal work to do around the front and rear windshields. It's surprising you can't buy a formed strip to start with, but it's not like they've never done this before. Typical F body problem areas.
 

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That looks like a pretty good crunch. THat window channel rust looks pretty minor. Must be a good car as far as rust is concerned.
 

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Just a little idea!

Cut a 2x6 board to fit the corner of the window, nice and tight. Then beat a piece of metal around it for your patch. This is just a little short-cut for forming metal. If you make it fit the piece of wood nice and tight, it'll fit the car the same.

That project looks like it's going to be sweet when it is finished! :thumbup:

Good Luck!

OOps! Just realized you're having the work done. Oh well, I'll leave the tip posted anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The shop has started fitting the new quarter, the one thing I don't understand is why they cut it below the lead joint. I thought one of the reason you went full quarter was to eliminate any splicing. Now I have a weld joint in the sail panel.
I kinda understand that maybe you don't want to disturb the factory joint if you don't have to but it still seems odd.

Opinions? :confused:
 

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Yeah, reproduction quarters often come cut in that area. It was common practice years ago to do the splice from the lower corner of the rear glass and just under the drip rail moulding -this kept the technician out of the factory seam and also gave some room to blend the paint withing the sail panel. Have your shop butt weld that in and clean and prime the backside of the seam to keep it from rusting from the inside. I'd also look at the factory solder and make sure there isn't any corrosion issues-that's a lap joint up there that often times has rust creeping out of the seam and under the solder.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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Good point, about the lap joint, especially considering the looks of the top corner of your rear window. And, it is important, as said, to make sure the backside of that joint gets some epoxy, or something on it. The back of that quarter is not easy to get to, therefore it is not uncommon for this to get "overlooked". As for the quarter stopping low, that's not unusual at all.

Looking good! :thumbup:
 
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