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Nova Guru
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering what kind of tip and air pressure at the gun you guys use for best results.

The gun is a HVLP Transtar gun (not sure the model #) My paint guy has a 1.4 and a 1.5 tip for it. Its an all over, not a spot repair.

My paint guy has shot hundreds of cars, but he is an old timer and new to HVLP, so this is my reason for asking. He is still trying to work the bugs out. Any thing that might help , I would greatly appreciate. Alot of hard work and $$$ on the line. Would like to minimize the amount of cutting if at all possible.

Here's my car after 8 months in body shop hell, the guy who did all the body/ primer work sold his business and left me out in the cold :mad: Color will be '68 GM Fathom Blue, dark VERY dark.

Now I have found another to finish the job, but like I say he hasn't quite got into the full swing of HVLP.

 

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Nova Guru
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response, I think hes was using a 1.5 (came on the gun)previously with not good results. He said it was fine for base but not clear. Read: alot of peel.

What about PSI at the gun?? the paint rep recommended he use 35. Any thoughts on that one???

Thanks again for helping me out! :cool:

Here's a pic of the car before I stripped all the paint off, not too shabby for 35 year old factory paint eh?? :D But you know us car guys can never leave well enough alone!!! LOL

 

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I would still say the 1.4 is your best overall choice. It will do a better job atomizing the products. I use Sata and Iawata guns and on those I use 1.3 tips. 35 psi is probably fine. Did the gun come with any recomendations?

What base and clear are you using? Now is not the time to go cheap on the final products. Remember that you have alot of time, money and labor invested in redoing the car. Using a good name brand product will ,mean you won't have to redo it in 3 years!

Here are a few of my cars. The red Dodge is my daily driver. The 68 Chevy was my dads, it is now in Australia. And the 47 is mine. I painted that car in a 2 car garage. The booth at work was tied up and I didn't want to wait any longer. I use all PPG products.
 

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Nova Guru
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502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice cars, thanks for helping.

We are going with dupont chroma base. I thought we were going to use transtar HS clear but now my painter says he would prefer to keep it all dupont.

Blocksanded the car with him all day long today with 320 wet. I did the parts that I cant screw up lol. Rocker panels etc. We didnt finish but we put
about 8 hours in it.

He is REAL happy with the high build primer that painter #1 used on the car and says that I didnt get taken on the bodywork. That made me feel alot better.

The car is REALLY straight and I think its gonna turn out great. I'm picking up the paint tomorrow and hopefull by wednesday it will be in clearcoat, if not then we will paint it next weekend.

I THINK he was trying to use a 1.5 for his clear, would that cause orange peel?? I'm sure we will have to cut n buff to get the car like I want it, but the less we have to cut the better!!! :)
 

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VERY smart move going all DuPont. I am a PPG guy myself, but as long as you stay within a brand name paint line you should be fine. The 1.5 will be ok. It will put on more clear. I'm sure you are going to wet sand and buff anyway so it shouldn't matter much if there is alot of peel.

Good luck.......looking forward to seeing more pics.
 

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Cox Custom Cars
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To help with the flow out of the clear, reduce the clear a little. If the clear is too thick it won't atomize properly and you will end up with a lot of orange peel.

One good trick to determine if the clear is reduced enough is to point the gun at a piece of masking paper on the wall. Pull the gun trigger for one second. If the clear is too thin it will run. Adjust the fluid adjustment control until the clear doesn't run any more, but not too lean. Or you won't get enough clear on the project and it will feel like sand paper when it cures.

I adjust my air pressure at the wall regulator at 50 psi and between 10 and 15 psi at the gun.

Good Luck
 

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Cox Custom Cars
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498 Posts
Dt, I'm using a Devilbiss Finish Line III. I have reduced the psi at the gun due to reducing the clear. I have also found that this helps with over spray.

On base coats I usually up the psi at the gun until the paint sprays right.

Reducing the clear and using slower activators seems to help the clear flow out better than using the clear straight out of the can. And we know that the better the clear flows out, the easier it is to color sand and buff.
 

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wow didn't know you could reduce dupont clear but looks like you can reduce 10% with a chromapremier , may try that next time i have just been adding the activator. I can tell you one thing tho , i got some of the black basecoat/basemaker on my hands and had a real hard time getting it off my hands :(


stanger
 

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Nova Guru
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Work is coming along REAL good now! Car will be "done" tomorrow... minus any wetsanding and buffing we may have to do.

The painter based and cleared the cowl panel along with some misc. trim pieces just to try it out. Let me tell you the cowl came out slick as glass. He was amazed and very happy, I think it got his confidence back.

We are using dupont clear, one step down from their top of the line clear. Ill find out the # tomorrow. No additional reducing was required other than what is specd on the can 4 to 1 i believe. He sprayed it @ 45 psi @ the gun with a 1.4 tip. The chromabase metallic base coat seems almost impossible to screw up also. Very good product!!! Pics coming soon, stay tuned. :D

Theres lots of progress pics HERE

This one is my favorite :D

 
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