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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What I have is a 84 Chevy Camaro with t-tops, it appears to have been repainted over the factory paint, (2- single stage layers) and its starting to peel, last year I tried to fix a few small spots, did the feather blend of the areas, and did the degrease/wax remover cleaning step both, before starting and after, then used duplicolor rattle can to spot paint, what is happening is the original paint is peeling from the primer base (has a light green hue, sorta like the etch primer, but when sanded it shows gray) and now the spot repairs are flaking off as well. and more oem paint is peeling elsewhere, in bigger spots
The oem paint that has began to flake, can be removed just by using regular water hose/sprayer pressure. So I am wanting to sand the entire car down. and start from scratch.
From my searching the net, have made this game plan:
1~ fix major dents by hammer/dolly them out
2~sand to bare metal and prime with epoxy dtm 2k
3~ do all necessary body repairs (dings/small dents) on top of epoxy primer
4~ then finish with epoxy sealer
5~ prime with a 2k urethane and block sand out
6~ lay down my bc/cc

My color choices are going with a black epoxy primer,after body work, sealer, then either a black or gray urethane 2k primer, and for the bc color of a midnight blue metallic, and in the 1st layer of clear use a touch of blue pearl powder, (to make it pop in the different lighting conditions), then another 2/3 coats of clear.
I'm starting out with ppg's shopline jp377/lh3770 epoxy primer. and plan to continue using the ppg shopline for the entire job.
I know this sounds like being overboard, but the car is mostly rust free, and I plan on keeping it for along time.

My thought process is that I can do all the prep work 1 section at a time as my time allows for, thats the reason for using a 2k epoxy primer,(epoxy being more weather proof, than urethane) since my job is travel oriented most of the time, leaving the weekends to do the work.I realize when I start doing the color, I have to spray the bc color coats all in the same day, then the following day the clear coats. And being located in FLA, the only draw back is the weather/mother nature.
Then in the end, after everything is done I can take pride in saying "I did it myself"

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.
 

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Your plan sounds good. The only thing I see that will slow you up is surface rust. Once you get the entire car in bare metal, you MUST get primer on it . Because of the humid conditions in Fla, you will have rust forming anywhere you have bare metal. I would get just so much of the car to bare metal, then primer with the epoxy primer. Then just do the other parts as you have time, but bare metal in Fla means rust in an hour.
 

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GM had severe paint quality problems around 84-85. We had a new 85 Cutlass that had terrible paint after several years and had to be repainted. The description of your car leaves little doubt that it all needs to be stripped off and a solid foundation established for any subsequent paint work. I also second the suggestion of using a quality epoxy primer (doesn't need to be the high priced brand).

Vince
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My plan was/is to strip one panel section at a time,
My search on the net for info, I found HotRodders and Custom Paint Forum, to have the most info/tips. Thats how I came up with my plan. And here in Tampa FL we have several Paint n Body supply stores, 1 is about 5 miles from my house.
 

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paint reaction

the adverse reactions of the paints on your car are due to incompatable formulations between the layers,one eats into the other and lifts it,a barrier coat is advisable if the paint is suspect.on your bare metal job,yes get it sealed a.s.a.p!also when yer cars in primer it will also draw moisture as primers are microscopic"hooks"that paint locks to so the longer its in primer the less "key"you will get.try n get it all done together away from moisture.take a week off work!!! :drunk:
 
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