Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I sprayed the base coat and the clear coat, and there is some orange peel in the clear. I want to re spray the clear so I can make sure that I wont break through it to the base coat. If I wet sand it with like 1000 grit, and I have that haze on it(before you buff it), will that haze from wet sanding stay locked between the coats? I sprayed Saturday and let it sit. I started to sand and realized that the pits in the orange peel are just a tad to deep for my liking(again worried about breaking through to the base coat). So I want to spray a nice wet coat over, but don't know if I want to if the haze from sanding my current coat will show through my new coat I want to apply tonight. How do I get rid of that haze from wet sanding without buffing, or will it not show through at all?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Purple haze

Dont worry about the haze; it will disappear.
Make sure anything you put on the clear has been removed and it is dry.
Make sure you spray with in recoat window.
You can wet sand clear with 600 grit then recoat to avoid buffing step.
If CC goes on slick I stop at 2 wet coats; chroma clear system.
If CC has peal I would spray total of 3 wet coats then color sand.
I spray 3-4 wet coats on corners and edges.
Don't get carried away; Excessive CC film thickness can cause problems also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man....I am using Summit Paint and I didnt realize I had to reduce it(you really dont they just suggest you do for the flow, high build clear w/o the reducer). It cam out good just a little orange peely. I suggest that anyone who wants to make sure they dont go through their clear does 3-4 wet coats. Thanks again.....I was really worried about that haze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Ha,ha,ha,been there buddy,The only differance between a pro and an amature is the amount of mistakes weve made.My most recent screw up was mixing 1:1 clear at 4:1.Reshooting clear is great for a nice job,I've found that after sealing and baseing and opening and closing the door to the booth each time,the clear just gets to trashy,so Itwo coat the clear and sand then let it sit a couple days to cure then recoat ,staying in the booth the whole time.The jobs come out looking like their sanded and buffed(dirt free).You just stumbled on to a secret,let us know when you REALLY screw something up.LOL :welcome:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So i recoated it, twice with the proper 4:1:1 ratiop and it laid smooth....like glass......Now the horrible task of wet sanding to get rid of that orange peel. Wondering if anyone recommends a certain process for wet sanding and buffing clear coat? My process is as follows:
1.Wet Sand with 1000, 1500, 2000 with water with tiny bit of soap.
2.Fine Grit 3m rubbing compound(by hand)
3.Then 3m finesse polish with buffer.

Any one suggest a better process for more deep, wet and smoother look. I figure that my clear coat is like a child, after creating it the next few steps are crucial to its life. I actually know that what I do now will be the make it or break it look for the people whom have been waiting to see my car done for the last 9 months that I have been redoing everything. only thing left stock on the car is th front suspension and rear end. I have even let my girlfriend in the garage to see it yet. I recovered all the seats to building my own dash pad and custom headliner. I am so sick of doing this..... but I love it :mwink: :D :mwink: . I will post pics after she is all polished. I dont consider this a job done by me but rather by all of us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
71haulnazz said:
So i recoated it, twice with the proper 4:1:1 ratiop and it laid smooth....like glass......Now the horrible task of wet sanding to get rid of that orange peel. Wondering if anyone recommends a certain process for wet sanding and buffing clear coat? My process is as follows:
1.Wet Sand with 1000, 1500, 2000 with water with tiny bit of soap.
2.Fine Grit 3m rubbing compound(by hand)
3.Then 3m finesse polish with buffer.

.
1. I use 600 grit to get close faster. Then switch to about 1200 grit; you don't have to use so many grits. Unless you mix with butter. ;)
2. Huh? compound by hand? what? :confused: I never tried that (except for small or difficult access areas). After wet sanding I use polisher with compound rated for removing 1200 grit scratches.

3. I finish up with buffer using polish rated to remove swirl marks; I do like 3M finesse even though it is priced like gold dust.

Ask your local paint store which polishing pads and polishes are popular.

Caution: you are about to enter the CC cut through and burn zone. :nono: Do be careful on the edges! Very careful! Don't try to remove 100% of orange peel unless you are a brave man! :evil:

http://autobodystore.com/rsw.shtml
http://autobodystore.com/swirl_removal.shtml
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
:confused: I laid down 2 medium-heavy coats of clear(high solids) unreduced, 4:1. It was a bit thick but with my 1.6 tip it laid down alright. Then I wet sanded with 800 and re cleared with two wet coats to fill in the "pits" from the orange peel. It was pretty bad, I used Summit brand paint and clear, they suggest you reduce the clear, not a must(although it should be). So when all was said and done I have 4 coats of clear on her. I tape off my edges when blocking and hit them with 1200 by hand, letting the paper do the work. You guys think I will be able to take the clear down to smooth pit less clear? It feels a little rough right now, the roughs seem to be just boogies, and the obvious peel. I know I am not going to get it to look like a factory job =, but I want it to be smooth as possible. I also was wondering if I can get rid of the little pits I had before re clearing will buffing it get rid of what I cant sand or at least help to fill them in a little? And I agree, Finesse at Carquest here in Buffalo sells a gallon for $128 :nono: . I would only buy the quart bottle $36. But what do you guys suggest for rubbing compounds and polish? Should I use heavy cut after sanding or medium? I have wet sanded and buffed dozens of cars but never fresh from new paint!!!??!?!? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Did you look at the links I posted?

How deep are the pits? Gotta pic?

"sanded with 800 and re cleared with two wet coats to fill in the "pits" "

You sanded out the pits right? So paint was flat before recoat?

I don't understand; you sanded out the pits then recleared and now you have deep pits again?

After you sanded you sprayed 2 more coats? why not one final coat?

So you have a total of 4 coats of clear now?

That should be enough clear to allow color sanding to a true flat surface.

I am a little confused.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,928 Posts
001mustang said:
LOL
Many new cars came riddled with orange peel.
Yeah, especially the new Corvette. I was appalled at how the factory was letting some of those new Vettes out the door with all that orange peal. I have a friend who operates a paint n body shop that also does custom paint. He says about once every six months or so a new Vette owner will bring in a new Vette for a wet sand and buff to try and remove some of the orange peal. problem is the factory applies so little clear these days it a real crap shoot.

Vince
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
302 Z28 said:
Yeah, especially the new Corvette. I was appalled at how the factory was letting some of those new Vettes out the door with all that orange peal. I have a friend who operates a paint n body shop that also does custom paint. He says about once every six months or so a new Vette owner will bring in a new Vette for a wet sand and buff to try and remove some of the orange peal. problem is the factory applies so little clear these days it a real crap shoot.

Vince
its almost like they knew it was coming and didnt give a crap just rode that horse till it died
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I sanded down the pits as much as possible, they were tiny pits, but they were pits. If I had sanded them down all the way I would of broke through the clear to the color coat. You couldnt feel them but you could see them if looked at the right angle and light. Clear felt smooth but looked bad if your eye caught it right so I wet sanded with 800 then re cleared it. THe reason I put two coats on after the first wet sand is that i wanted to fill the pits and then level of any valleys that were left from the first "fill coat". Its nice and smooth now compared to what it was. The color looks dull,obviuosly, until I wet sand and buff. Not real dull so dont go posting that it has too much clear......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
I am still confused.

Are we talking about orange peel pits/valleys? or some other pit like pin holes?

I think you have wet 4 coats of CC? That should be fine as long as each coat flashed off. I spray 3-4 wet coats on the edges.

I don't understand why the color looks dull? From overspray, or the CC did not atomize well, or you didn't spray wet coats?

Did you look at the links I posted earlier? They show how to remove orange peel from a factory paint job.

Sorry, I am a poor communicator. Maybe someone else can help you better than I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The color doesnt look real dull, its just from the clear not being buffed out yet. Plus I took alot of the lighting down from when I was painting it. Yes the pits/valleys are from the orange peel, and yes the clear coat didnt atomize very well at all on the first two coats due to me not reducing it the first two coats. You dont have to they just suggest it for certain guns, mine being one of them they suggest you DO reduce the clear to spray right. I talked to the rep and he said with a 1.4 tip on HVLP the high solids clear should be thinned out a little bit.
So yea my clear was thick when I shot the first 2 coats. It was like spatter when I shot it the first time. Then due tot the poor atomization of it the peel was pretty bad, it was not pin holes. I am good about flash times. I wanted to post pics but I lost the stupid USB cord for my Nikon D40(awesome camera, I would suggest it to anyone). I will post some pics when all is said and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Ahhh,I get it now,I've done that too,so if the metalics look even,and everything else is good,just wet sand with 600 and re shoot if they are real deep they may go right down to the base so if you're afraid of sanding through, don't try to get them completely out reshoot with two more coats sand and buff but Personaly its much quicker and easier to just sand it all off ,rebase then reclear ,that,s quicker and garuanteed to work,I know its hard to do if it looks good but you did it once you can do it again.practice makes ........well......almost perfect. Both ways will work,next time you notice a problem "stop" if you stopped after one coat of clear you could have saved some cash. The clear should look like glass right from the first coat,put it on like you want it to look.It could be much,much worse TRUST ME thats not such a bad screw up,not at all,you want a mess?try spraying a whole car with high build primer after forgeting the hardner.Now THATS a mess ,hahaha,ouch,wish I could say I never did that again ,but that would be a lie.theres an infinite number of ways to screw up in this biz after 35 yrs every time I think I've made every" missteake" in the book I surprise myself at just how naturally screwing up comes to me .My advice....learn to laugh at yourself...I've seen guys get so frustrated with themselves they were ready to quit......forever.....mostly they were concerned about me having to buy more material I just gotta laugh and tell them how much worse I screwed up......Sometimes I even have to make stuff up when they really screw up, but as long as they walk away smiling I've been successful. Anyone that cares that much about quality will have a job for life at my shop nobody's perfect but thats the prefect attitude I look for in any new guy.Now git back in dare an shoot dat ting
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top