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I bought this car a year ago, replaced things, and as I was replacing the distributor with the distributor removed, I overturned the engine...have had idle and acceleration problems ever since.
This is the only question i could see in your post...?

Have you used a timing light to set the initial timing??

Any idea of the brand or the type of distributor in the engine now??

Symptoms sound like the timing is too low.
 

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Are you setting the timing with the vacuum advance unhooked from the distributor and hose plugged to prevent a vacuum leak.

Can't set timing with vacuum advance can connected.

With the feed passages at the bottom of the fuel bowl, Carter AFB/Edelbrock Performer/Edelbrock AVS design carburetors have a tendency to sludge up the main and idle feed passages if fuel isn't well filtered....it sounds like you might have some plugged passages if you can get no change until the idle mix screw is completely removed.
Good fuel filtering is mandatory with that style carb.
 

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As long as you've been setting the final timing check with the timing light....you cannot be a "tooth or two off".

That "tooth or two off" stuff is just for preliminary installation of the distributor for initial engine fire up....once it is up and running and checked with a timing light, that factor or "tooth or two off" no longer applies....since the timing light is the final authority on the matter.


There is absolutely zero requirement for the rotor to point at the "front cylinder intake bolt"....that's a bunch of hogwash from idiot mechanics.....GM points it there for ease of installation on the assembly line so the installer's job is always the same, but that's it.
 

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You'll want to check closely, it is likely the tips of those idle mixture screws are broken off wedged into the bottom of the holes, and either partially or fully blocking one or both of the idle feed passages.
if the tips aren't stuck in there, then the idle mixture would just be maxed open and pig rich at idle with what is left of the screw threaded into each hole..

Cheap spark plug wires if that is rust....quality wires have stainless terminals on them.
 

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Platinum, Iridium, Rhodium are what are known as rare earth metals.

You don't need fancy plugs right now, it would just be a waste of money fouling expensive spark plugs. Until you get the engine tune sorted out and running fine just use the standard plug like you have been, AC Delco R45TS.
Once the engine is running well, then you can consider changing to the platinum or iridium plugs.

I'm not an Edelbrock guy, I don't know how the mixture screw circuit path as far as getting broken screw tips out.
 
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