really, you shouldn't need a puller, knocking around the edges with a brass hammer to knock it loose works. as long as your careful with a 3 jaw puller, it can work very well. we also use the 3 jaws in my auto shop class for this, as long as your careful, it works good, if it's not working and you keep going, you will warp a drum. have to know when to stop tightening, if it's not working1957plymouthhemi said:I want the cheapest there is .....To do it right iot will not be cheap.
".....you can use a 3 jaw puller from a rental place, that's what I use for drums. impact wrench on the tightening bolt, and it will pop pretty quick....."
Matt's suggestion it the best way I know of to completley warp and ruin a drum. If you think you have problems now try to find a good replacement drum.
What happens with the pullers that pull on the outside of the drum (especially on tappered axels or stuck straight splines) is that it pushes on the center and pulls the outer edge of the drum.
The proper pullers are shown below. The hub itself. THese are not cheap. THe first one shown is an old snap-on puller and the the other is a newer style that uses the same principle (they start around $150).
An alternative I have heard of (but never personally used) is to loosen the the hub nut about 1 1/2 turns then drive the car around the block making a couple of left and right turns. It is supposed to loosen the drum on the spline but as I said I have never tried this method.
My best advice is to buy or rent the proper puller.
Also make sure the the brake shoes are backed off before you attempt to pull the drum to insure it does not hang up on the shoes after it is broken loose from the splines.