Rear End
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Yes, you can use any rear end that does not have an enclosed drive shaft. No, they are not all the same. Your drive shaft will have to be made to fit with whatever rear end you use.
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It may need to be shorter or longer and you may need a different U joint.
If I am just replacing the rear end, why would I have to change the length of the drive shaft?
And by changing the U-joint I can use a new rear end?
I can just take my drive shaft to a company that makes and repairs drive shafts, show them my drive shaft and tell them what rear end I am using?
Thank you for the help.
And by changing the U-joint I can use a new rear end?
I can just take my drive shaft to a company that makes and repairs drive shafts, show them my drive shaft and tell them what rear end I am using?
Thank you for the help.
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Different rear ends have different length pinion shafts. A 8.2 Chevy 10 bolt has a short pinion compared to a 8.5 GM 10 bolt. A Dana 60 has a long pinion shaft and a 9 inch Ford has a short pinion shaft. So the distance from the center of the axle tube to the U joint mounting surface is going to be different for each different rear end. The rear end in your picture is a 7.5 GM 10 bolt, which has a short pinion shaft. If you are going to replace a 7.5 10 bolt with a 7.5 10 bolt then the drive shaft will not change. If you are replacing the 7.5 10 bolt with a Dana 60 then the drive shaft will be too long. The only way to tell what length drive shaft you will need is to install the rear end in the correct location and then measure for the correct drive shaft length.
The most common U joints are the 1310, 1330, 1350 and the 3R. If your drive shaft has a 1310 U joint and the yoke on the rear end you are using takes a 1330 U joint then you are going to have to modify the drive shaft or get an adapter U joint.
The most common U joints are the 1310, 1330, 1350 and the 3R. If your drive shaft has a 1310 U joint and the yoke on the rear end you are using takes a 1330 U joint then you are going to have to modify the drive shaft or get an adapter U joint.
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I understand what you are saying---BUT---
If I am changing the entire rear end (leaf springs included) why can I just reposition the rear end so that
I do not have to mess with the drive shaft?
I understand what you are saying---BUT---
If I am changing the entire rear end (leaf springs included) why can I just reposition the rear end so that
I do not have to mess with the drive shaft?
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You can do that if you don't want the tires to be in the original location.
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You may want the tires to fit the wheelwells. It's not a big deal to shorten the driveshaft.
And if the yoke on the rear end is a different size than the drive shaft. That's also not a big deal, as you can get a "bastard" joint which will fit both the driveshaft and the rearend. for about the same cost as a stock replacement joint.
I really do not have to worry about wheelwells...
This is for a V8 trike that has no wheelwells.
The trike has a 305 engine--a 350 trans, so the easiest thing is to replace the Mitsubishi rear end with a Chevy rear end to give me disc brakes and 5 lug wheel.
Thank you for all the help.
This is for a V8 trike that has no wheelwells.
The trike has a 305 engine--a 350 trans, so the easiest thing is to replace the Mitsubishi rear end with a Chevy rear end to give me disc brakes and 5 lug wheel.
Thank you for all the help.
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A S10 rear end should work for that. The 305 isn't going to break it, and it's not heavy. The later S series Blazers had disc brakes.
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They were made from around '82 to '02. The later ones had disc brakes. The ZR2 and some V6 5 speed Blazers and Jimmys had the 8.5 rear end.
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