Some rodders have told me that when you get into the really serious axle drops, like the 6" you have here, you get into some bump steer problems. Is that true? How do you fix that?The front end I used on this build was from Speedway... 6'' drop stainless steel front end... These frames are the easiest frames you can build and doesn't take much money to build it.... Now if you add all the goodies,, It can add up fast... Keep it simple and the cost will be much lowwer..
Tech... What I have learn about it... Is You don't want any slack any where's for one... And you want the steering rod that leave's the box going to the front Passing through the mounting point of the radius rod.. (as close as possible) This I hear is important..But seen many not even close.. Not sure if I said it where it makes any sense...Some rodders have told me that when you get into the really serious axle drops, like the 6" you have here, you get into some bump steer problems. Is that true? How do you fix that?
Check out Randy's build of the frame on his C cab, it's very do-able! Click hereLooking for a chassis that is not to expensive around one grand that is low enough (2-3 inch clearance more or less) something that is easy to work with and preferbally has alot of the stuff attached like suspension or is easily workable
Never once did I see this cause bump steer... MANY t-bucket's run this set up for YEAR'S and still do.... And I never seen One yet change lanes...SORRY... I ran Mustang II spindle's turn backwards added the rack on the back side AND ran a Spool with 18.50's out back and this car WOULDN'T even change lanes on a WET road.. No sign's what so ever on ANY steering problems,,, Car drove better then many new cars I ever drove.... Plus this car WAS driven EVERYDAY..And never really seen anything under 75mph Unless the sign on side the road said so....Guess someone was with we as well..The second thing is ackerman angle . backwards akerman with the tie rod mounted in front using spindles designed for rear tie rod Can cause bump steer with wide tires when turning on a bumpy road The front tire on the ground determines which way the bump wants to take you. Front tie rod is used on a lot of T buckets, and with narrow front tires your inertia keeps you going the same direction. I have had cars change lanes when the geometry was wrong. on bumpy curves. Both times the car went the direction I needed to go to advoid a crash. SOMEONE was looking out for me.
Thanks.. It's all good.. I may not be a Chassis Engineer.. But I have tested That Ackerman theory a little on the street and not out a book or on a drawwing board... I'm sure if you was doing some road course racing you would for sure see the difference.. I won't say you won't... But I did test this on the street along with running a spool on the street, (With pro street cars)Brian and I had a lot of comment last time when had this discussion , I did not want to stir things up again. I admire your builds. your creativity and have refered people to check out what you have done and at my age I can't make pretty welds like I used to . or what you do. I still tend to look at a car and after the first look admiring it say I would have done it different. That comes from being on the design review board . going over page after page of new Auto designs and finally signing the bottom of the blueprint. There are certain things that have worked and not worked since the horse got put out to pasture. Detroit did not always get it right and a few of us guys with more experience finally got to review what the kids were coming up with. Brian and I in the previous threads were pointing out that when ever possible a new builder should follow tried and true design criteria, I every once in a while look at some of my Society of Automotive Engineers Journals from the 1920's I have in my collection. A rat rod with 6.00 - 16 tires is going to handle differently than your roadster with "steam roller" tires. When I was the leader of a team of 6 engineers, we used to have a preliminary meeting and review each persons part of the project and everybody give input. One guy that was new to the team used to get very upset when someone made a comment that "I think you should do it this way."
An older engineer said calm down WE want this project to be a winner and everybody has different ideas and we can pick out the best way before we present it to upper management. I still think the early mustangs were the best built cars Ford Made
Like I said.. I TESTED THIS...As poorly as I convey my thoughts I can see why others would feel I am saying "YOU ARE WRONG" when often I'm simply saying "I have another idea". I also know I will say "YOU ARE WRONG" and I hope others see beyond my poor attitude and see it as "I have another idea". This makes my poor attitude my problem and not theirs. But honestly, usually I mean "I have another idea". :sweat:
The toe out may somewhat make up for the lack of proper ackerman. When the inside tire is following a tighter curve than the outside which is does, it needs to be turned in more for that tighter curve than the outside wheel. Without ackerman it is at the very least turned the same as the outside wheel thus with toe out it could be making up for the lack of ackerman. What is really bad is when it has negative ackerman and the outside wheel is literally turning MORE than the inside wheel. Again, the toe out could make up for some of this, I don't know. There are many variables like tire width that can make a big difference on the effects of the lack of ackerman.Thanks.. It's all good.. I may not be a Chassis Engineer.. But I have tested That Ackerman theory a little on the street and not out a book or on a drawwing board... I'm sure if you was doing some road course racing you would for sure see the difference.. I won't say you won't... But I did test this on the street along with running a spool on the street, (With pro street cars)
Now as far as the Ackerman,, Yes you will get a little tire scrub when you ture very sharp gone very slow,,(I get that on both,My 1999 GMC truck, And my 2000 Yukon) I won't say you don't,,, But What I will say is you DON'T see it and everyday driving, And that I will defend.. Not trying to fight with anyone about this subject, And I won't,, But Like I said, I didn't do drawwing on a board or took what I read out a book,, I tested this,, Is it right, Maybe not... But it does work and pretty well I must say.... Now if you get the toe in or out wrong,,, That WILL let you know very fast..
Things that mean more to get right then the Ackerman,,
3.Toe in..(sometimes it has to be out)..
4.Your steering rod....
These are the MOST important things to get right when setting up your frames,,
I would say if you can get your Ackerman right, Do so,,,